RE: REMOVE THE WASHER!

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER!
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RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/2/2005 1:07:56 PM

thr3

Posts: 9
Joined: 5/2/2005
From: Aberystwyth, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

Ah-get ya now.
I have been told the washer isn't in anyway as my truck is above serial number 9000-Helgar took them out at 9000 in the uk

(in reply to Tweedybird)

Post #: 251

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/2/2005 11:23:27 PM

Tweedybird

Posts: 1422
Joined: 5/7/2004
From: Garfield, NJ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: thr3

Ah-get ya now.
I have been told the washer isn't in anyway as my truck is above serial number 9000-Helgar took them out at 9000 in the uk

they started taking the washer out after 11000, so I'd check if I were you just to be sure.

_____________________________

Run Your Engine, Don't Let Your Engine Run You!
*Love the smell of Nitro in the morning!*
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When the cop pulls you over doing 160 mph, and asks if you knew how fast you were going say, "yep i had cruise control on".

(in reply to thr3)

Post #: 252

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/3/2005 11:50:20 AM

thr3

Posts: 9
Joined: 5/2/2005
From: Aberystwyth, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Tweedybird

quote:

ORIGINAL: thr3

Ah-get ya now.
I have been told the washer isn't in anyway as my truck is above serial number 9000-Helgar took them out at 9000 in the uk

they started taking the washer out after 11000, so I'd check if I were you just to be sure.

I am sure I just read somewhere on here that they started on 9000 in the UK?

(in reply to Tweedybird)

Post #: 253

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/3/2005 12:46:06 PM

Tweedybird

Posts: 1422
Joined: 5/7/2004
From: Garfield, NJ, USA
Status: offline

in the uk yeah at a particular dealer they took them out when they were shipped from the factory.

here in the states they didn't start shipping them out with the upgraded blocks until after 11000

Tweedy

_____________________________

Run Your Engine, Don't Let Your Engine Run You!
*Love the smell of Nitro in the morning!*
-=RCUniverse.Com=-
When the cop pulls you over doing 160 mph, and asks if you knew how fast you were going say, "yep i had cruise control on".

(in reply to thr3)

Post #: 254

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/3/2005 10:51:09 PM

kevinb456

Posts: 775
Joined: 9/18/2004
From: york, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

helgar is the UK distributor, so ALL UK trucks after about #9,000 should have them taken out.

however, #9,000 is only a rough estimate, exactly what # do you have? to be safe, i would check, not worth the risk of leaving the bugger in!

(in reply to Tweedybird)

Post #: 255

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/4/2005 2:39:07 AM

MrBillUp

Posts: 341
Joined: 1/21/2005
From: Maidenheadberkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: kevinb456

helgar is the UK distributor, so ALL UK trucks after about #9,000 should have them taken out.

however, #9,000 is only a rough estimate, exactly what # do you have? to be safe, i would check, not worth the risk of leaving the bugger in!

Yes indeed and it also gives you a chance to change the 4 screws that hold the back plate on to hex heads for better sealing!

_____________________________

009376 Red LST..
..Alu Diffs,Mugen shoes-1.1 springs,NE Roll Bar,HP Brakes,2nd GC,Helotes 2500nimh R and T,

(in reply to kevinb456)

Post #: 256

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/4/2005 10:01:33 AM

thr3

Posts: 9
Joined: 5/2/2005
From: Aberystwyth, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: kevinb456

helgar is the UK distributor, so ALL UK trucks after about #9,000 should have them taken out.

however, #9,000 is only a rough estimate, exactly what # do you have? to be safe, i would check, not worth the risk of leaving the bugger in!

My serial number is 10456, and Helgar have told me that it deffo isn't in.
SO if it is in and it blows up they will replace it free of charge. I am going to open it up over the weekend anyways just for a check-and replace the backplate screws.

(in reply to kevinb456)

Post #: 257

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/8/2005 2:15:18 PM

alvinm

Posts: 375
Joined: 5/5/2005
From: pembroke pines, FL, USA
Status: offline

I just picked up my lst,why are people replacing the backplate screws and which are the ones being used?

(in reply to thr3)

Post #: 258

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/8/2005 4:14:56 PM

MrBillUp

Posts: 341
Joined: 1/21/2005
From: Maidenheadberkshire, UNITED KINGDOM
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The screws that hold the backplate on are not substantial enough to keep a good seal, particually if you have removed the washer. You need to seal the backplate with Silicone sealer and change the screws too hex heads (as it may well leak air) prefably something a little longer. I have a 90mm M3 in mine and they fit quite tight but fine. I would say 80mm is ideal but try for yourself!!

_____________________________

009376 Red LST..
..Alu Diffs,Mugen shoes-1.1 springs,NE Roll Bar,HP Brakes,2nd GC,Helotes 2500nimh R and T,

(in reply to alvinm)

Post #: 259

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/9/2005 10:41:22 PM

kevinb456

Posts: 775
Joined: 9/18/2004
From: york, UNITED KINGDOM
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well, theyre good enough to keep a seel, its just they are a bit weak and so when loctited they can be hard to get out, resulting in a lot of rounded heads. a better solution is to get some decent hex heads. when you change them, get some silicone and use it to seal the backplate.

(in reply to MrBillUp)

Post #: 260

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/10/2005 5:24:45 PM

alvinm

Posts: 375
Joined: 5/5/2005
From: pembroke pines, FL, USA
Status: offline

I have 14800 truck,should i be shopping for a new motor since they are blowing up regardless of having or not having a washer?

(in reply to kevinb456)

Post #: 261

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/10/2005 7:20:37 PM

kevinb456

Posts: 775
Joined: 9/18/2004
From: york, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

no they are certainly not! the mach is a great motor, it should last a fair while with no washer.

(in reply to alvinm)

Post #: 262

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/11/2005 10:27:45 AM

TorqueFest

Posts: 85
Joined: 1/6/2005
From: SWINDON, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline

alvinm - Kevin is right, the Mach .26 is a very good motor and well matched for the LST. Treat it well and it should reward you with many hours of great bashing or racing. Ignore or abuse it and it will more than likely die young. AS WILL ANY ENGINE!

Leaving the washer design error to one side for a moment. Of all the engines that "blow up" there will undoubtedly be a small amount that were due to a manufacturing or materials defect. However IMHO the majority that I have seen are due to human error. Unfortunately a large number of these MTs are brought by people who have had little or no nitro engine experience. When you get this fantastic bit of kit out of the box enthusiasm can take over and I can fully understand if some people get a little too throttle happy. Would you rather spend hours searching for engine run in and care tips or would you rather just get out there and indulge yourself in the LST experience? Electric cars/trucks are pretty much "plug and play" in comparison, but a nitro engine is definitely NOT! It needs some discipline and restraint in the early stages of use. But this will be the best way to achieve a strong, reliable engine that starts quickly and runs consistently.

There are lots of places to find suitable running in advice, The following two links should help anyone new to nitro.

http://p202.ezboard.com/fofnaracingnitrotalkbackfrm36.showMessage?topicID=36.topic

http://p202.ezboard.com/fofnaracingnitrotalkbackfrm36.showMessage?topicID=26.topic

I have used the following method for the Novarossi S421B in my Hyper 7 and the Mach and subsequently the SH .28 in my LST.

http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

The next thing to do after reading up on break in is to get a temperature meter and use it regularly.

I have made mistakes and been unlucky in the past. My SH was running very strongly, but at a race meeting recently the pipe from the exhaust to the fuel tank came off following a seemingly minor collision, and the resulting lack of pressure in the tank starved the engine of fuel. As I was giving it loads of throttle this had the effect of over leaning the fuel mixture. By the time I realised that there was something wrong I had already cooked the engine. I tried to drive slowly to the pits but it cut out before I made it back. I took the truck back to check it out and when I checked the temp (which must have been more than 2 mins after it stopped) it was 302F, It had probably exceeded 400F The piston and head were black. The net result - It still runs but the tight compression I had has been significantly reduced and it's a lot harder to start when hot. Also the cheap black head anodising now goes from a straw colour at the bottom to a very dark brown at the top.

Learning by experience can be a right expensive b1tch!

_____________________________

LST # 005470

(in reply to kevinb456)

Post #: 263

RE: REMOVE THE WASHER! - 5/11/2005 11:43:54 AM

Tweedybird

Posts: 1422
Joined: 5/7/2004
From: Garfield, NJ, USA
Status: offline

quote:

I have used the following method for the Novarossi S421B in my Hyper 7 and the Mach and subsequently the SH .28 in my LST.

You say the mach is a great motor for the LST or per your words, "a great match" but yet you dropped in a SH? Any reason outside of blowing up your mach? or did you just want more power for L