Posts: 38
Joined: 8/22/2006 From: Sellersburg,
IN, USA Status: offline
Is there a step by step for a noob out there? I saw I need to remove the cooling head and the 4 screws but anything documented that I can follow to do this? Sorry for the noob question... Also for the ones after 11000 or so what was the fix (just comes with no washer or did they make it with tighter tolerance)? Is there a backing plate I can buy to make up for the slop after the washer is out? And last what is the recommended procedure for removing the screws on the backing plate (propane troche? I just done want to damage anything taking it apart is all.
Posts: 38
Joined: 8/22/2006 From: Sellersburg,
IN, USA Status: offline
yup, ser# 000049 on the sticker. so I am guessing it has the washer. The truck served as a shelf queen most of its life but now me and my kids get it out in the park and beat on it a bit to get some long lost enjoyment out of it. I baby it and just don’t want to do any shoddy work due to ignorance. Any help would be well thought of.
Posts: 4828
Joined: 10/10/2004 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
You do not have to remove the engine head.........I would so I can get a good shot at the engine mount screws without messing up my pinion/spur mesh.
You very carefully remove the screws on the back of the engine (use the proper size screwdriver ie a #2 phillips I believe). You will remove the plastic one way cover and then the 4 that hold on the acutual back plate. It is a little washer on the pin of the crank. Go back to the first couple of pages of this thread and you should see some good pics.
_____________________________
I always hand out free Air Guitars in my pit area.
Posts: 38
Joined: 8/22/2006 From: Sellersburg,
IN, USA Status: offline
Thank you for your help... so will I need to re mesh the gears after? I plan on doing this over the weekend. Also need to replace the motor mount, the 2 screws that attach the bottom skid plate have broken... so it’s a good time to do that I guess... I just need to order the part. How about the screws that have lock tight? Should I expect them to break or strip? I saw a few back a guy had to drill and re tap his after.... I need to know how to do this kind of stuff so I’m ok with all that I just like to know what is in store for me and like to plan things out to minimize error is all... And I know you among many others are very good at this kind of stuff so any help to reassure my plans would help me a lot.
Posts: 4828
Joined: 10/10/2004 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
If you use the correct size screw driver and apply pressure the soft 'Tmaxx Like' Phillips heads used on the early Mach26 backplate in the LST1 should come right out.
_____________________________
I always hand out free Air Guitars in my pit area.
Posts: 66
Joined: 4/26/2008 From: Reading,
PA, USA Status: offline
First time reading this thread and I'm putting it all together now. You see I blew my engine a while back ago and I thought it was me. I did run almost 4 gallons through it but I was told the average was between 10 and 12? I went a head and copped the platinum .28 and I was wondering if there is a washer in that engine