RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even)

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even)
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All Forums >> Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums >> Glow Engines >> RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even)

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RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 4/27/2005 2:32:27 AM

I3DFU

Posts: 59
Joined: 4/28/2004
From: Louisville , KY, USA
Status: offline

Went to his web site and asked him through his FAQ. If he has any insight at all I will let you know but till then I am running it to the bottom of the cowl. Also on the Brisson muffler the nipple is pointing down, is it neccisary to block it off or can I just leave it open.

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ProBro #1466

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Post #: 101

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 4/27/2005 11:44:40 AM

I3DFU

Posts: 59
Joined: 4/28/2004
From: Louisville , KY, USA
Status: offline

here is his response

Question # 1358 New Answer
Sir not related but I have studied your fuel diagram. I have a 1.60fx I want to do it to . Will the spring stretch trick work on this engine when the muffler is hooked to the tank? Or is it strickly the .91. Sorry toask this on a Heli sight but you seem to be the only one out there that has a diagram of this trick.
- Nathan
Louisville, KY US

Answer
Stretching the spring is done to raise the pressure level in the pump. This is needed in the stock pump if you run muffler pressure. I would think it would work with the 1.60 as well. But I have not tried it on anything except the 91

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ProBro #1466

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Post #: 102

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 4/28/2005 2:18:51 AM

JoeAirPort

Posts: 6964
Joined: 8/11/2003
From: Milwaukee, WI, USA
Status: offline

My next question is why would you need muffler pressure? Isn't that what the pump is for? Or maybe the muffler pressure raises the pressure in the tank. The pump then sucks fuel from the tank which is already at an elevated pressure (depending on RPM). So basically it's to give higer pressure at the engine? Not all engines like that much pressure. Anyway it would make for an interesting experiment if you had an extra VP-30 to use as an experiment. Another thing missing in that diagram is how to fuel/defuel. If you want to fuel from fuel dots in your cowling I'm not sure how that could be done using his diagram.

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Joe AP

(in reply to I3DFU)

Post #: 103

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 5/2/2005 2:44:45 AM

I3DFU

Posts: 59
Joined: 4/28/2004
From: Louisville , KY, USA
Status: offline

All right got the pump hooked to my 1.6 and went out tonight to set it up. After about a million flips and the needle valve in all the way except a couple of clicks she fired and ran. Ran it up and it started pulsating and richening the needle valve solved that. Would go back to idle and the engine would slowly slow down until it died. Would go and try to flip it and no start until the needle valve was all the way in again and then would have to adjust the high end again. I leaned out the low end a little and no help. I messed with the pump setting until it ran with about 4-5 threads showing. I also noticed I was getting plenty of fuel cause it was dumping out of the muffler. How lean should I go with the low end due to the high end needs such a major adjustment. any help would be great. mabey a procedure better than te manual.

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ProBro #1466

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Post #: 104

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 5/2/2005 3:47:55 AM

JoeAirPort

Posts: 6964
Joined: 8/11/2003
From: Milwaukee, WI, USA
Status: offline

Go full throttle and adjust the peak slightly rich. Then let it idle for a 10-15 seconds. Go full throttle again very quickly. If it just quits richen the low end. If it's rich (smoke and fuel spitting out) lean out the low end. Then repeat the procedure by peaking the high end again. Let it idle for 10-15 seconds. When you can transition very quickly after a long idle you are all set.

quote:

ORIGINAL: nate1778

All right got the pump hooked to my 1.6 and went out tonight to set it up. After about a million flips and the needle valve in all the way except a couple of clicks she fired and ran. Ran it up and it started pulsating and richening the needle valve solved that. Would go back to idle and the engine would slowly slow down until it died. Would go and try to flip it and no start until the needle valve was all the way in again and then would have to adjust the high end again. I leaned out the low end a little and no help. I messed with the pump setting until it ran with about 4-5 threads showing. I also noticed I was getting plenty of fuel cause it was dumping out of the muffler. How lean should I go with the low end due to the high end needs such a major adjustment. any help would be great. mabey a procedure better than te manual.

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Joe AP

(in reply to I3DFU)

Post #: 105

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 5/2/2005 11:42:51 AM

I3DFU

Posts: 59
Joined: 4/28/2004
From: Louisville , KY, USA
Status: offline

I don't think it will idle for 10-15 seconds. I am guessing the low end is running to rich. Why would I have to turn the needle valve in till about 3 clicks open to get it to start. I guess If I get a chance I will try again tonight but the fingers are starting to hurt. When it did run it ran like a Horse but at idle would slow and die.......

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ProBro #1466

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Post #: 106

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 5/4/2005 7:29:38 AM

Kweasel

Posts: 1084
Joined: 1/7/2004
From: fort worth, TX, USA
Status: offline

TURN THE REGULATOR SCREW IN. The high needle will be closer to 1 turn out or less. Do NOT use muffler pressure. Larger engines will tend to sputter rich when you advance the throttle and tend to get leaner as rpm increases. A perry pump is more of a bandaid for carburetor thats too large or a tank thats in the wrong place.

(in reply to Schpankme)

Post #: 107

RE: OS 1.60 woes (with perry pump even) - 5/5/2005 1:43:10 AM

Tigermoth

Posts: 25
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Port Coquitlam, BC, CANADA
Status: offline

I have the Youngblood Perry setup on a GMS .47. I ran the standard perry setup for over a year without any trouble but ran into a problem when flying at higher altitudes. The low end would richen up to the point I had turn the low end needle all the way in and it was still to rich. I changed to the Youngblood setup and drilled out the low end needle a little so it could go further in. What a difference. Transition is great. The best thing yet was fuel consumption. It now just sips fuel. I would fly for 13 min before where I can now fly for 20 min if I wanted. I still keep it to 13 as 20 feels to long.

I also have an OS 160 with the same Mid Range problem. Tried a Perry and Cline regulator. Both with the same result. I messed with this problem for two seasons. In the end it cost me my beautiful Lanier Extra 300S. That was the day I setup the engine with muffler pressure only. The engine quit in the wrong place at the wrong time. What a sad day that was.

The engine is now mounted in a Katana where it's been for a year. Don't really want to start tinkering with it again.

I hope someone has resolved this one before and can provide some input.

Cheers.

(in reply to Kweasel)

Post #: 108

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