Thanks Ken, I am going to use a Saito 100 Gk, but I don't think the difference in the two is enough to warrant the change in a motor mount. Thanks for the info.
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Day 6: Not a bad day, all things considered, finished up the center top and bottom deck sheeting, finished off the mounting holes in the upper wing. The instructions say to use a 7/16" brass tube to cut the holes for the wing mounting screws in the deck sheeting, but I chose to use a 1/2". Not that I had that much disagreement with the isntructions, just that I had a little damage from redrilling the hole in the mounting blocks from below. I went too far through on the original hole when I drilled it out a little to plug it with a dowel. Anyway, the 1/2" hole just means a little more room to move the screw driver around when attaching the upper wing if necessary. And, if I feel the need, I can always drill it out a little and use a 1/4 X 20 nylon bolt for more strength.
Got the trailing edge cap on the wing and really had to use my imagination to figure out how to do it. As indicated, the TE wandered a little as you looked across it. It and moved some as soon as I took it off of the building board. It was straight while pinned down, but you know how balsa is, it sprung just a little when it was removed. I got even though, I pinned the wing back to the board (see the pictures) with the TE hanging over the edge of the board about 1 to 1 1/2 inches. This allowed me to have a solid hold on the wing and place it vertical when I sanded the entire length of the TE to get it straight. And it lined up the few ribs that were a little off center. I epoxied the TE in place using 30 minute epoxy. This gave me the time I needed to go along the TE and tape the cap in place. As luck would have it, the kit comes with 2 TE cap pieces of stock and both were a little warped. I used the one with the least amount of curve, and taped it in place, ensuring that I had both the bottom and top covered. (see pics) Finally, after it was dry, I had the fun job of sanding, sanding, turning the wing over and sanding some more. Then when I thought I was done I sanded some more. I can attest to the fact now, when you look down the trailing edge, it is as straight as I can make it. (Looks nice)
I am now finished for today. Not only tired of sanding, but am waiting for some filler to dry where a hole in the sheeting on the trailing edge was. When it dries, I just need to do some finish sanding and then it is on to the wing tips. I figure that should be done by tomorrow. If I make it, I will have finished the top wing (including first time through sanding) in just 8 days. I doubt if I can keep up this pace, but only time will tell. Here are the latest photos:
< Message edited by hookedonrc -- 1/25/2005 11:58:51 PM >
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Posts: 14740
Joined: 7/10/2002 From: Lawton, OK, USA Status: online
Hooked, Don't get me wrong because I absolutely love the Hog Bipe, but you're just about the the point where you find out the Good News and Bad News of biplanes.
The good news- you have two wings to fly on.
The bad new - you have two wings to build!!!
you're doing a great job. keep it up.
_____________________________
The take off is optional, but the landing is MANDATORY!! AMA # 712539 www.gettingairborne.com Moderator- Beginner''s, Sport Flying, Off-Topic, & AMA Discussions RCU Community Moderator
Thanks Ken, You could have gone a long time without reminding me that I have another to go. I guess I will have to look at it the other way. At least I will know what to do on the next one, and I have one done already. I just have to make the dual servo modifications so I will have to avoid making any mistakes and forgetting to add in the supports, etc.
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Posts: 88
Joined: 4/6/2004 From: McLean,
VA, USA Status: offline
Following your progress and it looks great.
When you assemble the bottom wing halfs don't forget to put "conduits" from the servo bays to the root before glueing together. I simply rolled some bond paper around a dowel, inserted into the wing, and then let it unroll. Put a few drops of CA to hold in place.
Thanks dmanson: I hear you on the servo conduits. I have been reading and re-reading the instructions for the servo bays. Quite frankly, the pics that Sig provides in the ammeded instruction sheet are lacking. I have studied both the drawing and the pics and still have a question or two. As I see it, the basswood? mounting brackets just attach to the ribs on either side of the servo bay and then must be sanded to match the contour of the wing rib. At least that is what it appears. Is this correct, or is the mounting method different? It seems to me that the ribs are somewhat light in weight/strength to hold servo mounts. May not be the case, but I did question it during my reading.
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Posts: 14740
Joined: 7/10/2002 From: Lawton, OK, USA Status: online
Hooked, Yes, the rails are glued directly to the ribs. If you measure correctly the rails will also butt up against the back of the spar and to the front of the trailing edge sheeting. Get a good tight fit to the spar and you'll be just fine.
Here's a couple pics of a finished servo bay on my Hog, hope this helps
_____________________________
The take off is optional, but the landing is MANDATORY!! AMA # 712539 www.gettingairborne.com Moderator- Beginner''s, Sport Flying, Off-Topic, & AMA Discussions RCU Community Moderator
Thanks Ken, the pictures do help a lot. I see now how the supports butt up to the spar, and didn't realize that they go back to the TE cap. I can see now how the strength will not be a problem when then mounting is done this way. Thanks for posting the pictures, they are a great help.
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Posts: 14740
Joined: 7/10/2002 From: Lawton, OK, USA Status: online
Hooked, You are definately more than welcome. If there is anything else just let me know and I'll snap a pic of it if I can.
_____________________________
The take off is optional, but the landing is MANDATORY!! AMA # 712539 www.gettingairborne.com Moderator- Beginner''s, Sport Flying, Off-Topic, & AMA Discussions RCU Community Moderator
Posts: 88
Joined: 4/6/2004 From: McLean,
VA, USA Status: offline
Description by Ken is right on the money. I had no problems and did exactly as he describes. I did add small triangular bracing to the 'posts' that the servos mount on. Was a bit worried about the security of the butt joint between the post and the hatch. That may have been overkill, but I'd hate to lose a servo due to vibration and force.
Day 7: Really didn't get too much done today, only spent 1 1/2 hours on the build. The temp was down a little and I just didn't want to spend the time it takes to heat up the garage with the kerosene heater. Still, it wasn't that unpleasant, I just needed to do a little less today than others. I did finish up the sanding on the TE cap, and smoothed up the area where I had filled in in the wing center top. It is smooth now, but I did put my thumb through the TE sheeting. I have noticed that after my sanding, this sheeting is somewhat thin now. It is very sensitive to my touch now, and I could break other areas if I am not careful. I have considered going back with either some 1/4" triangle stock or just some 1/16" sheeting glued between the ribs on the backside of the sheeting. This would give it more support and keep me from putting my thumb or finger through it again. I am not too worried about the plane's overall weight since I will be using a Saito 100. I figure that a little more support on the TE sheeting would be worthwhile. This is a mod I hadn't considered, but it may be by necessity that I do it.
Anyway, you can see by my pics that the wiing tips are now on and in place. In fact you can see that on one of them I decided to slip in some triangle stock for more support. I did this because I noticed that after sanding the end of the wing tip the braces weren't at a true 90 degree angle and the support was pretty poor. The triangle stock worked great. On another note, in one of my pics, you can see where the LE sheeting did not come in contact with the end rib. So, I will take the wing tip brace on that part, and make a new one out of the same thickness of stock. I will trace the actual rib on the end and cut it to match the shape of the wing. After gluing it in place against the end of the wing sheeting, I will then fabricate a new wingtip sheeting brace to match the shape. It will take a little longer, but the end of the wing will be stronger for it, and will hold the shape better when shrinking the ultracote.
NOTE: It's funny, since I am taking pictures of my progress, I am finding that I am keeping my benchtop cleaner than I usually do. Maybe I am on to something here?....
Here are the latest pictures:
< Message edited by hookedonrc -- 1/27/2005 12:00:41 AM >
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Posts: 88
Joined: 4/6/2004 From: McLean,
VA, USA Status: offline
I had the same experience of putting fingers through the sheeting. In fact, one time I dropped the wing and caught it before it reached the floor. Would have been a good 'save' except that I put my fingers through the deck in several places. As I mentioned in my post of 1/19, I doubled up the sheeting on some places to give extra strength hoping to make the decking stronger. When possible, I ran the grain of the add-on sheeting in the opposite direction.
dmanson: I did catch your comment on doubling the sheeting on your post. I was thinking more on the LE sheeting than on the trailing edge. I had problems with the LE on my Somethin Extra, but the trailing edge sheeting was ok. Looks like the opposite situation on this one. I will be getting some 1/16" stock and reinforcing the TE, and will take your suggestion and run the grain 90 degrees to the existing TE. Thanks for the comments.
_____________________________
My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Kit Building >> RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build 
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 
I guess I will have to look at it the other way. At least I will know what to do on the next one, and I have one done already. I just have to make the dual servo modifications so I will have to avoid making any mistakes and forgetting to add in the supports, etc.
