RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build  
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  • All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Kit Building >> RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build
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    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/3/2005 4:05:28 AM   
    hookedonrc



    Posts: 2181
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    From: Broken Arrow, OK, USA
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    Well I haven't quite got there yet, but from reading the instructions it looks like a piece of lit ply that is inserted in a cut out on the side of the fuselage. What I plan to do is take some light ply that I have in the shop and make it 3/4" wider. I will cut the block the same length across the fuselage so it fits side to side. Then 'before' I glue on the fuse doubler internal side, I will extend the cutout forward by the same 3/4" of an inch. Then using the new landing gear as a template, I will mark the holes, drill them out and put a plywood backing on the plate to double the thickness, then fo finish it off, I will use 1/4 X 20 blind nuts on the inside. The only thing left will be to reduce the length of the fuse bottom that extends from the nose back to the gear plate.

    Unless I have missed something in reading the instructions this should take care of the move forward. If I have missed something, maybe dmanson or RCken can let me know. For the landing gear, I am using a left over gear from my first Ultra Stick 60. It is a little taller, and stronger than the one that came with the kit.

    BTW: I grew up in Denver/Lakewood and lived in Aurora for a short while until my job took me away.

    < Message edited by hookedonrc -- 2/3/2005 2:42:17 PM >


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           Post #: 51

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/3/2005 4:16:41 AM   
    RCKen



    Posts: 15042
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    From: Lawton, OK, USA
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    Hooked,
    I left my landing gear in the stock position. But I've read you thoughts for moving and it looks fine. Only thing I would add would be to brace the ply plate with tri-stock. This will strengthen the joint between the plate and the fuse. Even though my LG is in stock location, I braced it with tri-stock to strengthen it. Came from experience on my previous 2 Hogs (I bought them already assembled) where I ripped the LG plate out on a rough landing.

    Hope this helps

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    (in reply to hookedonrc)
           Post #: 52

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/3/2005 2:38:44 PM   
    hookedonrc



    Posts: 2181
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    From: Broken Arrow, OK, USA
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    Thanks Ken,
    I guess I should have added that I would be bracing the gear plate with stock. It just slipped my mind since I do it with all gear blocks. I found out early on that bracing the landing gear is pretty much a given. I think the only plane that I have that I didn't add extra bracing was my Tower Voyager. The gear is mounted in the wings and you can't get at it without cutting into the plane. Otherwise I would probably have strengthened it too. I do appreciate the feedback though.

    BTW: Forecast is for the temp to be in the high 50's this Saturday. Maybe I can get out of the shop and fly for a day.

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           Post #: 53

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/3/2005 2:43:06 PM   
    RCKen



    Posts: 15042
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    From: Lawton, OK, USA
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    Hooked,
    Trust me, down here in SW Oklahoma we're watching the forecast for Saturday too. Haven't flown since New Year's day, so we're all getting a bit stir crazy down here.

    _____________________________

    The take off is optional, but the landing is MANDATORY!!
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    (in reply to hookedonrc)
           Post #: 54

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/3/2005 2:45:15 PM   
    hookedonrc



    Posts: 2181
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    From: Broken Arrow, OK, USA
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    LOL...I hear ya... If I do get to go out, I will probably be taking this. It is my US Lite with a G-26. I love flying it.

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           Post #: 55

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/3/2005 2:51:42 PM   
    RCKen



    Posts: 15042
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    From: Lawton, OK, USA
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    Hooked,
    Of course the Hog goes to the field. I was lacking a "throw around" plane and a buddy gave me a thunderbug he had laying around. I cleaned it up and will trim it as soon as we can get to the field.

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    _____________________________

    The take off is optional, but the landing is MANDATORY!!
    AMA # 712539 www.gettingairborne.com
    Moderator- Beginner''s, Sport Flying, Off-Topic, & AMA Discussions
    RCU Community Moderator

    (in reply to hookedonrc)
           Post #: 56

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/4/2005 11:44:20 PM   
    hookedonrc



    Posts: 2181
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    From: Broken Arrow, OK, USA
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    Day 10
    Today was a short one since work still has to come first (not sure why...oh yeah cash..yeah that's it). So I only got the other two wing tip sheets in place. I was able to build up the end of the rib where I had a space between the sheeting and the rib. You can see my progress in the pictures. First I glued the end plate that I fashioned on the end of the rib and the LE sheeting. This allowed for a solid end to the wing rib and sheeting. Then tracing out a new wing tip sheeting support, I followed up by gluing it to the end plate that I had fashioned. To add a little support, I added 3 small pieces of balsa that you can see in the picture as well. Glued it all in place, cut off the extra sheeting and am now ready to proceed to the next few steps to finish the basic assembly of the top wing. Forecast is for the high 50's / low 60's tomorrow, so guess what....no building....FLYING. It is supposed to rain on Sunday, so that will be my next build day.

    One thing I decided to do this week was buy a respirator. I am not quite ready to put up the CA, and this afternoon was a good test of how it would work. I sure wish I would have done this a long time ago. Between the CA and spraying the wing tip sheeting with ammonia, I am sure the garage was pretty fouled up. (Of course, with the good weather, the main door was open, so it had some affect as well.) I am happy to report that it went better than I had expected. I never even smelled the ammonia, and the CA fumes were held at bay. Will monitor the situation as I progress, I am not ready to admit winning just quite yet.

    Enjoy the latest pics.

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           Post #: 57

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/6/2005 9:53:05 PM   
    milkman-RCU



    Posts: 101
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    From: Parkville, MO, USA
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    As you move to the fin/rudder and the stab/elevator, I will give you a caution on the pre-shaped tapered balsa for the elevator and rudder. The three pieces all look alike, but the one for the rudder is only 1/4" thick and the two for the elevators are 3/8" thick since the stab is sheeted and the fin is not. Just be careful, it is easy to confuse them (ask me how I know ). I was just moving too fast and did not think about the difference the sheeting creates. I was able to fix it fairly easy. Anyway, just a heads up since the instructions are limited and no mention of the difference.

    I have just finished the fuselage and the above mentioned parts. Getting ready to start the wings. Straight forward build so far.
    Kind of misleading that they say "now with laser cut parts" and all the wing ribs are still die crunched, however, the laser cut plywood was real nice.

    Putting a ST 75 on mine.

    (in reply to hookedonrc)
           Post #: 58

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/6/2005 10:03:48 PM   
    RCKen



    Posts: 15042
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    Having built a Hog Bipe I know what you mean about the sizes. But I've developed a habit that has served me well to avoid this problem. As I start the build I spend and evening labeling everything. All the cut parts with the part numbers. Sticks and sheets with sizes and LENGTHS (very very very important to mark the length so you don't confuse with different lengths). As you label it mark it off in materials listings so you can make sure you have everything. Then after you are done, go back and re-measure it all again. When you start cutting off of your sticks and sheets, always leave the end you mark size on for last so you can still identify it later. If you do this before you start I'll bet your won't ever use the wrong size again.

    Hope this helps.

    _____________________________

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           Post #: 59

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/6/2005 11:05:11 PM   
    hookedonrc



    Posts: 2181
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    milkman - Thanks for the heads up on the thickness. I know what you mean about the different sizes and little in the way of explanations. I have been extra carefull about looking and measuring for the correct part. Just yesterday, I was struggling trying to decide which of the pieces were for the center of the trailing edge on the top wing. It is the center portion that has the cut out in it and is about 8" long and triangle in shape. I almost used an elevator half, but I got to checking closer since they have the rounded edge on the front. Had to laugh when I found the right piece in the box covered by other balsa.

    On the build, I didn't get a lot done this weekend. Tried to fly yesterday, too windy, so stopped by the LHS for a few hours. And am working on another home project for the rest of the weekend. However, I did get the TE wingtip braces sanded into a curve and am ready to tape on the ailerons and sand the outside edges to match the tips. Will complete that part and post some pics of the finished top wing either tomorrow, or Tuesday. I figure I will start on the bottom wing halves by mid-week. For the bottom wing, I will probably not be as detailed, but will focus on putting in the dual servo trays and rails. Most of the construction of the bottom wing (other than the angled root ribs) is the same as the top. .....oops time for the Super Bowl

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    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/7/2005 11:52:09 PM   
    hookedonrc



    Posts: 2181
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    Day 11 - PHASE I Completed
    Finally had the opportunity to add the ailerons by taping them in place and sanding in the curves on both ends to match the wingtips. After completing this, I cut out and sanded the center wing Trailing Edge (TE). For now, I am not going ahead and do any final sanding. If I have learned anything, it is that final sanding this early on in a project is just asking for dents and dings that will need to be fixed later. I will be moving on to the bottom wing halves in my next building session, probably tomorrow, or Wednesday. Since the bottom wing construction is similar to the top, I will not be posting quite as much as I have on the top wing. However, I will concentrate on posting my progress on adding the servo rails and the servo covers that will be in the wing for the dual servo configuration. I think overall, I am happy with the way the top wing came out. It is straight on both the LE and the TE, and the sheeting problems that I had have been corrected. Even though there were some problems, I was able to overcome them by either reworking the areas of the problem, or in engineering the fixes needed to complete the process at hand. If you are following this build, I am hopeful that it has been interesting. Thanks for all the encouragement and assistance that I have received so far. I look forward to the rest of the build.

    Here are the latest pics of the top wing:

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    < Message edited by hookedonrc -- 2/7/2005 11:58:03 PM >


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    My signature would be much more clever than this, but it is all of the characters that I am allowed to post as a basic membe

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           Post #: 61

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/8/2005 1:50:01 AM   
    Joe Ortiz



    Posts: 1471
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    From: Aurora, CO, USA
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    Sweet!, keep posting the build thread, like I said, I have one in the box, waiting for a good time to get started on the build, right now, too many projects to even think about building it
    Joe

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    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/8/2005 3:11:54 AM   
    dmanson


     

    Posts: 88
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    From: McLean, VA, USA
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    Have enjoyed following your progress.

    Note on bottom wing construction: When you assemble the two halves be sure to get the dihedral exactly right. If it's off, the interplane struts will not fit easily between the top and bottom wing. Servo trays should be no problem.

    (in reply to hookedonrc)
           Post #: 63

    RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 2/8/2005 3:25:59 AM   
    RCKen



    Posts: 15042
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    From: Lawton, OK, USA
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    Hooked,
    The servo trays for the bottom wing build fairly quickly. If I remember correctly I built both of them in about an hour. Dmanson was right, you need to pay attention when you join the bottom wing halves. But don't get yourself in a knot worrying about it. As long as you pay attention when you position the inner ribs for each wing half, the wing halves go together perfectly. when you join the halves use 30 minute epoxy (to give you plenty of time to position the halves) and plenty of clamps. they go together very easily after that.

    good luck, and hope this helps.

    _____________________________

    The take off is optional, but the landing is MANDATORY!!
    AMA # 712539 www.gettingairborne.com
    Moderator- Beginner''s, Sport Flying, Off-Topic, & AMA Discussions
    RCU Community Moderator

    (in reply to dmanson)
         &n