It may be a little late now, but when I went to Lowes, I asked the person in the door department and not the check out clerk. If it is like other stores, the persons in each of the respective areas may have more control about what goes to the cashier. Or maybe I just got lucky.... but there are many threads on RCU about doing this, so it may be in just who you ask.
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hooked-
The gentleman that was working in the door department is who i asked, but he said that he could only do 10% and to go to the customer service counter and ask to speak to a manager to see what kind of deal I could get. So I asked the lady at the customer service desk if I could talk to a manager about getting a discount on the door, she called him asked what kind of discount she could give me, and then proceeded to describe the door as having a little nick and some scratches, and that's when she offered 25%. I think that if the manager had come out and looked at it, I probably would have ended up getting a better deal. It had a chunk from the forks of a forklift taken out of the edge and since it was the bottom door of the pallet it had cracks (or scratches as she called them) all over the side that was facing down. I used to work for BMC West another building materials company around here and they would have almost given it away, as you can't fix it and unless you were going to use it as a construction door it has no other purpose except for maybe firewood, Oh well. I would normally go to Home Depot mostly because it is closer to my house, but I had a $10 off card that I needed to use.
jspencer - Betcha if you go back in a week that door will still be there I had the same problem with something similar. There used to be a big Air Show in Oklahoma City each year and my son and I would go whenever we could. Well the local quick trip, 7 eleven, type of store had posters in their windows advertising the show. I wanted to frame one and so I set out one morning to see if I could get one. I went to a couple of stores, and they were glad that someone other than them would take it off the window. However, each one had a little flaw or tear in it so I kept looking. I went into one Quick Trip and the clerk said I would have to talk to someone at headquarters about getting it. What a joke...the show was over, the posters were going to be thrown away, but still she had blinders on... I laughed and told her that I would get it at some other store...and sure enough, the very next one had one in perfect condition and it now hangs on my office wall. Some people just don't get it...
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Probably prefer to work with Ultracote, however you get more material with Aerokote. One advantage to Aerokote is that it has an white back. Seems to hide wood grain better. If you are going to use either one of these low temp. materials, you must...must have an iron that controls temp. accurately.. I have a Century 21 and love it..Fred123
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What setting do you use on your iron for ultracote as I have the same iron? I also have their trim sealing iron and it has the same type of temp control on it as well.
I didn't get a chance to do anything tonight as I have been studying for an interview in the morning. I'm taking the day off from work tomorrow so I should be able to work on the bipe after my interview.
jspencer - I set my iron at about 175 degrees. This is enough to activate the glue, but it doesn't shrink the covering. You can go back over the areas after it is in place to do that. I would experiment a little on scrap balsa to see what works for you. The instructions, if I remember correctly, mention 225 degrees. I have used it before, but prefer the 175 temp.
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Day 43 I continued to finish up the center bottom wing sheeting. In the pictures, you can see the progress and the steps that I have gone through to ensure that the servo wires have something in place to use to fish them through. First, I took the bottom wing with the finished top half sheeted and set it in place on the bottom of the fuse. I centered it and then marked the place for a 1/2 inch hole for the servo wires to go through. NOTE: You can see the 1/2 rib structure in the pictures and the instructions indicate you can skip this step. It is up to you whether or not you add these, but I chose to keep them in. They aren't in the way and do add additional support for the wing sheeting in this area. So if you build this kit, the dual servo instructions will indicate to skip steps 39a. It also says you can skip 44b...this is the part where you cut out the center rib section to accommodate the center/single servo configuration. This step I did, in fact skip. After I marked the location of the servo wire exit holes, I drilled them out using a 1/2 inch brass tube that has been sharpened on one end. This is the best way I have found to drill holes in thin balsa sheeting. I have several already pre-sharpened for when they are needed. Make sure you hold something behind the sheeting for support when you drill..
In the second picture, I you can see where I have threaded string through the servo wire tubes in the wing. In the center section, I attached a small washer to the string just to make it easier to fish it out through the 1/2 inch holes. The outer end of the string is curled up and taped inside the servo bay on the wing for later use.
Last step for today was to install the trailing edge center blocks and do a little sanding. You can see the results in the last two pictures. NOTE 2: If you are building this plane..and you haven't noticed by now, the instructions for adding the trailing edge blocks indicate to install the aileron torque rods. I will assume that if you are doing the dual servo configuration you will know NOT to install the torque rods. However, if you haven't thought about this, I guess I just gave out the secret ... I am somewhat surprised that the instructions are explicit about not adding the 1/2 rib supports, and not cutting out the center rib section, but overlook not adding the torque rods. Yeah, it should be obvious, but how many of us have not done the obvious before? NOT MEEEE....
As I said, I did get a little of the sanding done, and am now ready to add the fiberglass strip around the wing on the center wing joint. I measured what the kit supplied and without cutting out the space for the center servo, there is just barely enough. So I will need to get some more (probably have some in the shop already) for fiberglassing the elevator torque rod... Now this I will need
Latest pictures of my progress:
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Hooked, Man oh man, you are getting me all worked up to order another Hog bipe and built it!!!!
Keep up the good work
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I guess that my two least favorite jobs in kit building are covering and cutting hinge slots.. When I first started this new hobby, I was advised in a thread to buy a slot cutter... How I wish I had taken his advice. At any rate, I have discovered a neat tool that I happend to have on hand that helps some. For example on the wing trailing edges, the edge is fairly wide and hitting the center exactly is sometimes difficult. Since woodworking is another one of my hobbies, I tried using the tool I use to mark dovetails and it works great to locate and mark the center of the trailing edge.. Picutres are below: Fred123
Thanks for the pictures fred, I do have a slot cutter, and had used it on my Somethin Extra during the hinging process. I am confident that I can line up what I need for the hog and cut the slots. I am considering waiting until it is covered before I cut them because on the SE, I had a real tough time finding them under the covering. ...
Ken, I'll just bet you that they have more hog kits where this one came from. ... I am really excited about having you and a couple of your flying buddies come up here for the maiden flight. As far as a hobby shop, you will be within 1/2 mile of one on the way to the field.
Things may slow a little over the next couple of weeks. I am getting closer to my son's graduation and the work is still sitting there to be done. You know, the fun stuff, painting, yard work, cleaning (yes, I will help) and putting together the food for the visitors we will have. We are having an open house the weekend he graduates and we will have a lot of neighbors and friends stop by. It's been a long haul, but we're almost there.
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Hooked, I'm definately excited about coming up there and watching your maiden flight too. Don't worry about having other things getting in the way of building. Hey, we all have a life too!!! You'll finish when you finish.
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Finished covering the top wing tonight.. As I said, I am using Astrokote and after doing the tips, I have decided that I wished I had used Ultracote. Find that the heaver Astrokote is more difficult to stretch around compound curves and the adhesive does not seem to stick as easly. Maybe it is just my technique, but still believe it is harder to use than Ultracote. Fred123
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Kit Building >> RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build 
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 
I had the same problem with something similar. There used to be a big Air Show in Oklahoma City each year and my son and I would go whenever we could. Well the local quick trip, 7 eleven, type of store had posters in their windows advertising the show. I wanted to frame one and so I set out one morning to see if I could get one. I went to a couple of stores, and they were glad that someone other than them would take it off the window. However, each one had a little flaw or tear in it so I kept looking. I went into one Quick Trip and the clerk said I would have to talk to someone at headquarters about getting it. What a joke...the show was over, the posters were going to be thrown away, but still she had blinders on... I laughed and told her that I would get it at some other store...and sure enough, the very next one had one in perfect condition and it now hangs on my office wall. Some people just don't get it... 
RE: Sig Hog Bipe Build - 
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