I was messing around with mine last night, and I'm still having the tail chasing issues. I decided to try a few things...One of which was to change the pot on the back of my TX to ACRO instead of heli. I then changed the very next pot labeled I believe "Tail C" to the opposite direction it was. This created right rudder input as you increase throttle, and I had 9-10 successful flights in a row without crashing. It eliminated my tail spinning. I know this isn't the prefered setup used by everyone, but I was desperate to get in the air, so I tried everything I could think of. And this did prove, to me anyway, that these things can actually fly. I was able to fly hands off for more than 10 seconds a few times. Yet on the 10th or 11th lift off I found a nice hard object in my garage that thrashed my Fly bar and Receiver. Now, when I plug my receiver in, the motor tries to spool up to top speed instantly. The receiver was dangling from the antenna chord on my last crash. Think I'll be getting a new TX and RX unfortunately. I was planning on doing this in the future, but it looks like it will be sooner now. Oh and by the way, I too was getting a glitch in my receiver. Luckily the few times it happened I was on the ground. It seemed to reset itself, and I only noticed because the gyro started flashing as it was going through its startup process. Let me know if that actually works for you
Thanks Dude I will follow these steps meanwhile I tried to remove some slop out of my tail as it STILL does not work the gyrop cannot mamange to counteract the torque On the other hand it migght be the blades dont provide enough power? just a thought
Now my tail should be steady :O) added only 5.4 gr
I used to have the round blue gear bevel but replaced it with a new Hex Shogun stock one as it has less bind I am sure that because my bearings in yoke are stock walkera So before i bend it i take the blue one out and wait till i ordered new blue input gear
Posts: 41
Joined: 3/29/2005 From: dallas,
TX, USA Status: offline
I have also replaced my main stock rotor blades (3 sets of those), with Align 305mm wooden blades. They are fantastic! Very smooth and provide plenty of lift. They're a little bit longer(maybe 3/4" 2cm or so) than the stock blades, a bit stiffer, and from my experience with the 2 sets I've purchased come pre-balanced CG/weight. They're also very inexpensive. I purchased 2 sets from a company that was advertising here for $21US shipped! They also take a minor crash or 3 and still perform. I believe the blades are slightly heavier than stock maybe 4-6gr total.
Contact:
Have you tried the speed up blue bevel gear set available through a few sponsers here? Seems like their claim of better tail control would be logical given the increased rpm through the tail. I think stock gear is something like 11t and the speed up gear is like 14t. That will likely be my next purchase
< Message edited by TDubya -- 5/19/2005 8:34:07 PM >
I am having the same problem. What do you mean by transmitter subtrim? Where is the information about waiting 4 sec. before opening the throttle? I have ordered a new ESC thinking that it was the problem.
Hi Bill,
On my brothers JR transmitter there is an option to adjust the value of the trim function. I don't really know what it is adjusting for sure but it allowed us to get a lower throttle setting so the esc would think it was safe to turn on the motor. the way we figured out that it was a problem was that we were able to trick the esc into starting the motor by turning off the transmitter while the heli was plugged in. ( YOU MUST HOLD YOUR HELI CAREFULLY IF YOU DO THIS! as it may start spinning at full speed) once we got the motor spinning and the transmitter back on we set the throttle at idle and the trim full down and the motor was still spinning slowly. so it was thinking we had about 1/4 throttle set when it was actually at idle. by adjusting the "subtrim" on the JR transmitter we were able to get the esc to see idle stick position as idle and not part throttle.
If your using the Walkera transmitter I don't know what you could do to make it work.
Posts: 540
Joined: 2/26/2005 From: Phoenix, AZ, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: contact303
Yes but the bevel i have blue is the same its not 14 T :O(
I will have to order a new speed up 14T blue gar
But that does not mean i should be having this problem Maybee its because i have a 11 t pinion on brushless .. should it be a 10 T ?
I would agree with you that you should not be having this problem. after flying the brushless 35 yesterday i don't believe that your problem is being caused just by the brushless motor. either you don't have your servo linkage setup to get maximum travel for right turn or your gyro/mixing is not working right. do you have your tail servo rod in the outermost hole on the servo arm? you may be able to put the rear end of the rod into a hole that is closer in at the tail housing... is there a small difference in the walkera tail housing and shaft from the zoom/shogun tail housing that your using now? anything that would reduce the amount of pitch your tail blades can get towards a right turn? can you have someone hold down your heli so you can run the blades up to flying speed then check and see what the tail blades are doing when you give full right and left rudder? have them move the heli left and right to be sure that the gyro is working at flight speed. just trying to think of everything... good luck
Posts: 52
Joined: 4/3/2005 From: , WI, USA Status: offline
Hi, Could you please tell me where you purchased the Align 305mm wooden blades? My DF35 so far can only hover 1 foot in the air for 2 minutes with stock battery, can't do much. I just order the 2200MAH lipo battery with a charger ($38 shipped) from eBay. Thanks
Nothing seems to help As you can see i did a bit of diy to get tha tail steady
It kinda helped a bit as I cna almost say its steady now when I throttle up BUT The tail can now only be moved one way once throttled up left turn yes right no
I looked and it looks like the traveling distance for right is very small after Throttle is half up so it wont turn at all ....
I tried sop mnay things now I believe its not possible as it appears the tail cannot counter the torque or as now it can barely but no room to stear then when throttle is half up
New day new Problem Do not ever Buy Walkera electronics I am such a fool ..,...
The brushless I got yesterday Has today after 3 flights stopped I belive it actually is the speed controller
These Chinese Crap companies build ONLY rubbish Its unbelievable.
Finally I cut out the CRAP BEC in the RX to avoid all the glitches now the brusghjless settup (cheap walkewra sheit) just breaks .. 3 flights !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I dont believe a word of people ...sometimes your unlucky .. NO !!! All their stuff is sheit DO NOT BUY WALKERA ELECTRONICS
I installed it CORRECT I am sure or that \\\ I even bought a heatsink USED my Silver thermal compound (from pc) and mouted it
So it doesnt get too hot .,.. Nevertheless now it stutters a bit when I throttle up but thats it
I am fairly competent with electronics and not some teenager with frustrations I have quite a bit of patience and do not come to rush conclusions
I believe I have the same Probelm as reported by others Youb ahve to disconnect all 3 cables from motor and reconnect them ?? What idea this is I have no clue But disconnectiong the Battery alone does not work
What a pile of rubbish did I buy here again
MY ADVICE SERIOUSLY DO NOT BUY ANY ELECTRONICS FROM WALKERA !!!!!!!!!!! YOU DO? YOU REGRET IT LATER !!!
< Message edited by contact303 -- 5/20/2005 1:30:48 PM >
Posts: 56
Joined: 12/25/2004 From: Paignton, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
I Agree, you can get an empty #35 for £45, get one of those, if you want a cheap heli, you can then get decent electrics for £100 and a decent TX that will last you for years and service all your models for a couple of hundered quid.
Or maybe if you are really considering getting a heli and are reading this to see if you want a #35 (which I am sure you aren't any more!! ) Get yourself a T-RexV2, the quality of those things compared to these is a differnt league.
I Agree, you can get an empty #35 for £45, get one of those, if you want a cheap heli, you can then get decent electrics for £100 and a decent TX that will last you for years and service all your models for a couple of hundered quid.
Or maybe if you are really considering getting a heli and are reading this to see if you want a #35 (which I am sure you aren't any more!! ) Get yourself a T-RexV2, the quality of those things compared to these is a differnt league.
Sorry but I dont aggree ont Quality of T rex I seen a V2 and I dont like it one bit
To learn deffinately Not a good heli
The #35 Frame and construction I repeat myself Is excellent !!!! Get a barebone one You wont regret it The frame is Better then a shogun one ....!!!!!
Then slowly but surely replace all part with Shogun upgrade Its not going to break you bank and replace as you go along
But get decent electronics and a Tx that last Like bhermer says ....
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helicopter Reviews 
RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC H... - 
) Get yourself a