RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helicopter Reviews  
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helicopter Reviews
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RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helic... - 10/10/2005 12:54:46 AM   
Steve-in-VA


 

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Joined: 10/9/2005
From: , VA, USA
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Thanx Okie!

(in reply to okie_redneck)
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RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helicopter R... - 10/11/2005 4:55:54 AM   
fishnstk


 

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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
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Wow! finially got a chance to fly the chopper today. Finially after all the trouble and swapping out parts ie: Servo's, Transmitter, Receiver, and finially the Gyro the thing flys. It was the Gyro all the time. It seemed like after a munite or so somthing was getting hot and causing the rudder servo to go all the way in one direction and lock. I put the servo to the receiver directly and it worked fine. Got the new Gyro and now it flys very steady and straight. Good luck, Gary

(in reply to neweheliflyer)
       Post #: 1152

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helicop... - 10/13/2005 2:59:34 AM   
crossfire39


 

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Ok, which trimming tabs do what?

When my heli gets off the ground and start to tip backwards should I adjust the bottom or side trim tabs. And to what direction?

When it starts going to the left ( not spinning but heading in thta direction) which tabs should I adjust and to what direction?

Thanks

(in reply to okie_redneck)
       Post #: 1153

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helicop... - 10/13/2005 4:55:02 AM   
okie_redneck


 

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From: tulsa, OK, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: crossfire39

Ok, which trimming tabs do what?

When my heli gets off the ground and start to tip backwards should I adjust the bottom or side trim tabs. And to what direction?

When it starts going to the left ( not spinning but heading in thta direction) which tabs should I adjust and to what direction?

Thanks

Your question assumes averything came correct from the factory. Mine didn't. For what I paid, I didn't expect otherwise. If you're paying for a Ford, you're not going to get a Lincoln.
Here's an easy way to figure out what's what. Disconnect your motor (the red connector with white and pink wires). Now, you can see what's what.
Position the aircraft with the tail pointing toward you with all trim tabs centered (in the middle).
right stick:
left/right: You should see the swashplate move right for right and left for left. If they're moving the opposite direction, move dip switch 2 on your transmitter to the other position. Now, with the stick and trim tab centered, you should see the swashplate centered on the left/right axis. If it is not centered, remove the screw from the servo arm and reposition it on the servo to where the swashplate is centered and replace the screw.
up/down: When you move the stick forward, the swashplate should move forward and vice versa for the rear. If it is reversed, you flip dip switch 1. You're going backward, so you'll probably find that the swashplate is tipped back. You should correct this at the servo per previous axis.
It sounds like you've gotten your rudder under control, so we'll skip that side.
Once you know everything is basically centered, you can mess with the trim tabs. If it's still tipping back, adjust the up/down trim tab forward (up) until it is corrected. Whatever way you have to hold the control to correct the problem is the direction you should adjust the trim tab for any individual axis. If you're drifting left, you adjust the trim tab right. All of this should change once you center your swashplate. When you adjust trim tabs, you're actually counteracting a problem with the helicopter's balance. Once you get this fixed, you'll find that you are the owner of an entirely stable and controllable machine. Now you know why training gear is such a good thing. Every time I have everything apart, I use my training gear to make sure everything is still within acceptable parameters to avoid a silly preventable accident.
Good luck. I hit the ground at yesterday at 20 MPH and stripped my main gear and broke my skids. I'm out of business until parts arrive. The crash was my fault, not the helicopter's. I was flying in the street at night and a car drove by ruining my night vision. I hit the ground without haven seeing it happen. It was bad enough that I considered buying a Shogun and moving the electronics. I decided just to upgrade parts instead. A buddy of mine who flies Nitros inverted nose-in thinks I'm a genious for buying the Walkera. He hasn't heard anything bad about them, but he doesn't hang out with people who are naive enough to think "ready to fly" is literal. Right now, you're banging up something you have a minimal investment in. You could be banging up a $700 Shogun package.

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(in reply to crossfire39)
       Post #: 1154

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helic... - 10/15/2005 4:53:58 PM   
joshuawhipp


 

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From: , CA, USA
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hi guys i just wanted to know if Walkera Dragonfly 36(belt drive) is any better than the Walkera 35 3D (shaft Drive) I really want to know which is better drive for the tail rotor shaft or belt. I really cant wait to get into this hobby Thanks Joshua

(in reply to Steve-in-VA)
       Post #: 1155

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/15/2005 5:06:52 PM   
thecheatscalc



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BELT it's more durable and will last the life of the heli if used properly. it's a bit less efficent than gears but doesn't wear like gears (1-2 hours flight time, same with tail motors) it's been said some where else but I'm too lazy to find it so,

BELT: most durable, more complex but if used and set up properly the longest and most hassle free type of tail motivation. slightly bent boom is no problem
Gear: most efficent, wears fast but if set up right will prove in efficency. any bend in tail boom is fatal, new one is nessicary.
Motor: the simplest, just plug in to replace. bent tail boom is no problem. lasts just as long as the gears or less, as well as not that cheap to replace ($8+) but most user friendly, the small motor just is overloaded and can't be used on larger heli's such as the Rex and shogun.

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RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/15/2005 7:12:19 PM   
Tiger27


 

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From: , AUSTRALIA
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Belt is the way to go, bent or dented booms are easy to fix with a steel rod and a hammer but the belt wont strip like a geared shaft or burn out like the motors, also with the 36 style tail your tail blades keep turning if you have to auto rotate.

(in reply to thecheatscalc)
       Post #: 1157

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/15/2005 7:13:00 PM   
eddierc


 

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From: Englewood, NJ, USA
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Ok guys just got this df#35 IT HASN'T GOTTEN OFF THE GROUND YET but hope to soon. I did the stupid thing and messed with the little switches on the back and after reading found out maybe i shouldnt have so anybody know how they should be set

Also has anyone else recieved one with the tail blades attached backwards it didn't seem to hve fiull movement in both directions so i reversed them they spin inthe right direction now and they have more movement.

If what iahave been reading is true then i should re mesh all the gears in the thing and runn in the motor any input for a first timer. i bought this thing because it was cheap and didin't seem like it would hurt so much if i damage something was it a good choice for a very first timer not to rc but to helicopters.

(in reply to thecheatscalc)
       Post #: 1158

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/15/2005 9:29:16 PM   
thecheatscalc



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well the 36 is a better choice... but the 35 will do just fine, just more expensive to maintain, that's the great partof the 36 unless you crash you have no limits to how long you fly, just batteries.
now what's wrong with your switches? if when you press in any direction and the servo leans the swash that way you're ok, and if your throttle is at minimum at low position and full at high postition that's good, and if you press left on the tail control and it spins left you're good there. that's it all trims should be at the neutral position and you shouldn't have to mess with them once above 3 feet. if all that is good, no tail wagging (adjust the horn on the servo/slide the servo holder back/forth until it is right) and your blades never go above 14 degrees you're good. go fly.

PS: if the tail blade holders are at un even distances from the shaft remove the blades and adjust the allen wrench screw in the holder to adjust legnth.

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RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/15/2005 10:07:03 PM   
hanney


 

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From: babylon, NY, USA
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hey, ive been flying for about three days now and all of asudden the heli slames into a fence!. after looking over the rubble i found out that the rear rotar assembally was loose and had rotated. i tried to sqrew the 2 screws in but they are not going any further. i was thinking that i could drill into the boom and solve the problem? anybody have a suggesion to or not to drill?

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RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/16/2005 3:08:17 AM   
hueyman


 

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From: Joliet, IL, USA
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if you drill into the boom you will most likely damage the carbon fiber driveshaft or belt depending on wehther you have a 35 or 36. make sure the 4 screws that hold the 2 halves of the tail rotor case together are tight. they "clamp" the tailcase to the boom tight enough so it doesn't rotate. if the screws are tight and the case still rotates, loosen the 4 screws enough to sldie a small piece of 400 grit sand paper between the boom and tailcase. cut it to fit around the boom but not overlap itself and install grit side to the boom. that will definetly hold it in place. do the same to the other end of the boom where it attaches to the frame. i found the boom creeping after a couple hours run time which caused the gear mesh to loosen up.

(in reply to hanney)
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RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Heli... - 10/16/2005 5:28:19 AM   
tiagobaracho


 

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Joined: 5/13/2005
From: recife, BRAZIL
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hueyman ...
two questions :
I would like to know exactly how trinton charger detects that the cells(Ni-Cd and NiMh) are full charged ? how it works ? What the current caracteristics of a charged ni-cd or ni-mh cells?

The "trickle charge" only works if "top charge" is set disable ? What the diference between "top charge" and trickle charge" ??

Thanks a lot man!!.

(in reply to hueyman)
       Post #: 1162

RE: Walkera DragonFly #35 CCPM Electric RC Helic... - 10/16/2005 12:40:11 PM   
redriver69


 

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Joined: 7/5/2005
From: , FL, USA
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i am building a shogon kit, it came with adjustable alum cnc servo ends, i cant seem to find anything to use to attach to the horns, can someone help out with this, also my old walkera #35 tail does not respond when i power up it pushes the servo back an slowly comes back, but does not have travel the other way, i replaced gyro with the same one an servo, with no help, took tx appart an did not see anything loose, what else can i do.

(in reply to Steve-in-VA)