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O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/20/2003 9:13:39 AM   
MHawker



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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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Thanks seanychen,

Believe it or not, someone in the for sale section already responded to my ad! The wonders of the internet! Thanks anyway.

Brian,

Thanks. My neighbor and flying buddy (Frankenthumb here) has a Bisson muffler he is going to use on his 160. I'm anxious to see how his runs.

Thanks again.

Mike

_____________________________

Mike

Anyone know any good blonde jokes? I'll start- "There was this blonde customer service rep..... "

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 76

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/20/2003 5:55:16 PM   
PlaneKrazee



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From: Westerly, RI, USA
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I had a 160 size Bisson muffler and sold it. It was too loud for me and had the 2 stroke wing ing ing ing.

The key is to use the larger size Bisson. It is quieter and it lets the engine breath better.

The BGX and ST 4500 are the same muffler and give a deeper sound.

The stock muffler is good. It was made for the BGX (so it has lots of volume) and has been made to work with the 160 by installing a reflecting baffle plate in the muffler. You must use this plate/washer with this engine to get the best performance with this muffler/engine combo. It acts a little like a tuned system according to Great Planes.

Brian

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 77

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/20/2003 6:07:43 PM   
krayzc-RCU



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From: Kannapolis, NC, USA
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one of mine is being run with the jett turbo muffler and that baby is very quiet!........

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smooth as silk!

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       Post #: 78

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/20/2003 11:02:45 PM   
PlaneKrazee



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Krayzc,

Have you flown the plane with the Jett muffler or have your tests been on the ground?

I never got my engine to run properly with the Jett and from what I have read no one else has either. The Jett muffler is too restictive for a 160. It is the same muffler they sell for a 120.

I had one and could not a get full flight out of it.

It was not very quiet when the engine was running but it sure was quiet every time I landed.

the Jett muffler has the Wing ing ing ing sound also. If you and your neighbors like that sound, all the more power to you.


If someone would like to buy my Jett muffler (it looks new) I will sell it for $60.00 shipped in Cont. US.

Brian

< Message edited by Skypilot_one -- Jan 20 2003 6:08PM >

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 79

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/20/2003 11:18:44 PM   
krayzc-RCU



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From: Kannapolis, NC, USA
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i have did 4 flights on the jett muffer 2 on the apc and 2 on the mejzlik prop. i have not had any deadsticks once i tuned the low end to match what the vp-pump could put out. This is not been of the 3d nature only imac type of flying of 10 minute times no problem. I am wanting to get a 18 x 6 pro zinger per aerosplat recs. so i can do more 3d with this set up. I opened up the tuned can there is not much there to be resistive if you ask me just some swrils like a cin. roll.

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smooth as silk!

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       Post #: 80

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/21/2003 8:46:56 AM   
PlaneKrazee



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Krayzc,

The swirls act like a 3/4" diameter header and doesn't leave much room for an expansion chamber. If the chamber was larger the engine would be easier to tune.

The machined coiled header is a brilliant idea.
I think that if a new, larger chamber was machined to fit the other half it would be a great pipe. The question would then be would it fit in the cowl?

To tune a pipe for this engine to run well from 2000 rpm to 8000 rpm would require a muffler with at least the volume of the stock muffler.

I am glad to hear of your success with the Perry pump.
I had tried the Cline regulator with the Jett but still had no luck.
The high needle was a few clicks from shut, it was very sensitive.

Brian

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 81

Re: 3 flips... 2 to many... - 1/21/2003 10:25:18 AM   
MHawker



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[QUOTE]Originally posted by skerlock
Ok heres the drill..open your carb wide open...put your finger over the carb and rotate(not Flip the prop) counter clockwise 5(five) times. This puts the fuel in the crank case. next close the carb..and flip the prop counter clockwise (with out the finger) ..3-5 times ( this brings the fuel to the piston)..If you have mounted your prop so it is horizontal on the Back side of the compression stroke..then position the prop vertical..apply the glow while holding the prop.. now rotate the prop clockwise just before the back of the compression stroke..now place two fingers close to the spinner on the front of the prop do not cross the 1/2 way point foreword to back..now just flip the prop no more then 1/2 inch clockwise and it will start Every time....This is the most dependable motor I have ever owned.

Scott
[/QUOTE]

Hey Scott,

I've forgotten for some time to give you a big THANKS for this tip. Even though I am having the problems while running the 160, your starting tip works EVERY TIME. I can't believe I went out and bought a Dynatron (luckily used) to start this and an ST3000.

It even works for my little 46FX.

Thanks! The guys at the club are pretty impressed too!

Mike

_____________________________

Mike

Anyone know any good blonde jokes? I'll start- "There was this blonde customer service rep..... "

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 82

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/21/2003 9:50:46 PM   
seanychen



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This starting technique works really well in normal temperature. But ever since I came to Detroit, I sadly had to start using the starter for sub-zero temperatures.

For 4-strokes, I've found that flipping the prop clockwise w/ a chicken-stick is more likely to start than the finger-spinner back flip. Again, only in normal temperature. Anybody have luck starting an engine w/o starter the first flight of a sub-zero cold day? Well, actually, anybody else went out to fly in sub-zero temperature?

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 83

Cold Weather Blues - 1/21/2003 11:34:54 PM   
Aerosplat



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Want to aggravate the cold weather start ? Mount your engine inverted. It's a real problem to get the fuel up into the crankcase and atomized for starting. I have to flip the plane upside down (engine upright ) to get the first start when the Temp is below about 40 degrees F. Also, My Hobico Hi-tork 180 will not spin the engine through compression when it is cold. I have a Sullivan Dynatron on the way .

_____________________________

---- Robert ----
"If you put a big enough engine on it, even a brick will fly. But it will never 3-D"

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 84

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/22/2003 12:27:12 AM   
krayzc-RCU



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From: Kannapolis, NC, USA
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i believe i will be flying more when its warm 40 degress than less than. I will keep you all posted on futher testing as the weather permits. After spending a year in Japan (warm weather) it doesn't take much for me to say not today. Right now the wind is 15 with gust of 19 so i will contunie to pass on the chill factor flying. I am almost finished with my funtana from desert aricraft via Pugsley i should have a pic posted on the old funtana threads tonight......

ps my needle high end is out about 1 1/4 turns........

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smooth as silk!

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       Post #: 85

O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings - 1/22/2003 12:57:50 AM   
MHawker



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Another FYI,

I got an answer from Bill about the shouldered hole in the bottom of the backplate of the 160FX. It's for the RPM sensor. He says since there is no fitting to fit that for a pressure line, it's best to use the upper left bolt hole and the fitting from Tower. He also says be very careful, 'cuz you don't want drill out that hole and break through the outside of the case.

Mike

_____________________________

Mike

Anyone know any good blonde jokes? I'll start- "There was this blonde customer service rep..... "

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 86

idea - 1/22/2003 7:10:53 AM   
MHawker



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I thought of an idea for drilling out the top left bolt and thought you all might like to hear it.

When you drill out the bolt hole, be sure to put a small piece of metal tubing in the hole. Drill bit goes inside the metal tube. The tube will protect the threads from getting messed up.

Good news from Tower... My pressure fittings are backordered until March!

_____________________________

Mike

Anyone know any good blonde jokes? I'll start- "There was this blonde customer service rep..... "

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 87

pics of pressure nipple install - 1/22/2003 9:20:10 AM   
MHawker



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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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Ok, so I'm impatient. I got an idea about using a "zert" fitting and tapping that RPM sensor hole.

Here is the install. Very easy. Buy a 1/4-28 threaded grease fitting. Drill out the innards and enlarge the top hole a bit. I used another pressure fitting as a guide. Then drill the same size hole through the backplate.

Then, since the fuel tube wanted to keep slipping off, I put my dremel in the vise and using a grinding wheel, grinded that section more round. VIOLA!

Here's a pic.

Mike

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< Message edited by MHawker-RCU -- Jan 22 2003 4:25AM >


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Mike

Anyone know any good blonde jokes? I'll start- "There was this blonde customer service rep..... "

(in reply to rvd)
       Post #: 88

back side - 1/22/2003 9:24:15 AM   
MHawker



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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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He