wow, that's a lot of work, looks nice though, lightweight and well vented. I went the easy way out though, decided to call it the ''ugly mount'' it's pretty straightforward and should be able to fit on any stick mount plane as long as i cut the stick so the prop protrudes same distance from cowl end as the stock setup would. Being generous i'd say that took me about 2 hours to build including the wait between applications of 12 min epoxy... I am an beginner/novice builder. It has survived a *40mph+ nosedive into grass! (bl8 incident)
I thought Sticking a plywood plate to the foam as a mounting surface to support the 4 rods like you use was likely to be problematic on an epp plane because it's so flexible. The stick at least has a few inches of penetration with adhesive on all 4 faces so that must help a lot. But now that i think of it if i had cut it flush i could have glued the plate to the firewall and the stick and put a wood screw through the plywood and into the stick, that would have been pretty strong, oh well, maybe next time!
(pics of my ''ugly'' mount in earlier post)
* i have no idea the exact speed really, but certainly very fast, it was a perfectly vertical nosedive off throttle for the last 50 feet or so of the dive, so it could have been faster or slower. I don't know for sure the top speed of the ucd at 15 oz in a vertical dive, but i sure wouldn't have wanted to be in the plane :S
by the way t man, i really really really like the way that plane in the pic looks, the extra 300s. Is it too much for my ability in your opinion? after all it is styrofoam right? Who makes that one in particular? i thought gp's x300 was a balsa/covering plane...
i'd like to be able to use 3s 2100 tp and my rimfire + 20 amp eflite. i'll figure out wich prop after...
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Joined: 10/7/2004 From: Temecula,
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aflipz,
Well, if you look, I am intimatly connected to the origonal wood post into the fuse with the firewall plate. I used the gearbox to set the thrust angle, and the four posts go into the styrofoam as well. It is really stronger than it needs to be, no doubt.
The Ultrafly Extra (See it Here) is a handfull in the air. VERY fast flier. Only had it up twice so far. I regard this as an moderatly advanced airplane. It's wing-loading is high, and you must "fly" this plane all the time. Landings are HOT. This plane does not float, and has a nasty snap tendency in hard pitch manuvers.
I would not say it's a "bad" plane. Just different. It's more a pattern plane, flies very fast and needs lots of space. Not really a parkflier in my mind. This belongs to my father-in-law... he bought it thinking he was getting a UCD style EPP nerf-plane. That's why we got him this UCD 3D, it was way too advanced for his skill level. I like the Extra, but I have not had a chance to take it out in a nice open space and play. We stole the RX out of it for the UCD. It is a beautiful plane, no doubt. It's a bit heavy for the wing area, but your 2100's will work out great in it. Definitly not a "durable" construction though... probably easy to repair, but all brittle molded foam construction.
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Joined: 5/19/2004 From: Tucson,
AZ, USA Status: offline
Sorry to break in... Here's an update on mine. Finally got all the stuff (rx, servos motor, etc) today, and went ahead and soldered connectors on the batteries and speed control. I messsed up pretty bad by not getting a Y-harness for the aileron servos (not using a computer radio). Still trying to decide whether to just bite the bullet and solder the wires together in a "permanent" Y-harness, or to modify the setup to use one servo. It takes way too long to get stuff here(Kuwait), otherwise I'd just buy one.
I'll put the airframe together and install the "guts" tomorrow if I have time, maybe do a maiden flight Wednesday night. Thanks to all posting tips, I'll use some of them on mine.
cwrr5: Go ahead and solder the leads to make a permanent "Y" harness if your solder joints are OK it will work fine. aflipz: I like outrunners just fine. I use that $29.99 SK 400 from Hobby Lobby on a foamie and love it. I am also taking the easy way out and trying to stay with a geared settup on the UCANDO. I would also like to be able to use the new stick mount BL motor on my SS camera plane. TMan: I called Northeast Sailplane this morning and confirmed, the "WOW" motor does use GWS gears. I guess I am going to order one. Ron
That's too bad, i'd like to have a relatively fast plane (aerodynamically speaking) that is still light on it's wings. The potensky cobra ep looks like a real contender here at 12oz. plus it can touch and go! Something i miss on the ucd. So it's gray, big deal! I think it looks much nicer than the ucd overall. Plus i can get floats for it and fly it off the snow come winter. And it too can do 3d ep!
Though it is epp they provide carbon rods to stiffen the tail, i'm sure it'll do better than the ucd in that department. And it looks much more responsive at least on video, the airfoils are thinner so that must account for less drag and more speed. i still like the ucd i'm just addicted to planes i'll try to keep both in flight ready condition.
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Joined: 5/19/2004 From: Tucson,
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LOL! Yeah, no worries about the solder joints, I solder all the time professionally.
I just don't like the idea of making multiple breaks in the wires unless absolutely necessary, more joints=more potential problems. Has anyone used one servo for the ailerons on this thing?
?????? Dymonds' is $69.00. Northeast is $57.99. Although Dymonds' has a 25 AMP ESC and Northeast has a 15 AMP. Now I am wondering if the 25 AMP would be better considering the UCANDO uses 4 servos.
quote:
ORIGINAL: TManiaci
Ron,
I noticed that Northeast was selling that rig for like $9 more than Dymond. You might want to buy there instead.
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Joined: 10/7/2004 From: Temecula,
CA, USA Status: offline
Cwrr5,
I think aflipz is trying to say that if you somehow crosslink the two aileron control surfaces to one servo in the center, with all the flexing this bird does under stress, it would result in unpredictable or inadequate control behavior.
I would tend to agree... the servos on this plane are way out in the middle of the wing for good reason... to balance and minimize the warpage that hard control might impose. I can't see a center-mounted servo working very well on this nerf boomerang with all the twist and flex. You might get away with torsion-bar control rods inside the wing, extending out to the existing servo positions to work the surfaces. Lots of work to try that out.
I like the idea of saving weight with one-less servo, but... using these 4-5 gram micros with 15 or 20 in-oz's of torque is good enough for me. Besides, if you want to do flaps/flaperons or spoiler/spoilerons then you'll need two servos in the wing...
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RE: U-Can-Do 3D EP Anyone seen it yet? - 
