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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 11:58 AM   
WacoNut



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From: Blanchester, OH, USA
Status: offline 		The Stock dihedral is just fine I would not change it.

You may want to reconsider doing the door/window mod. This will come in handy for attaching the wings and a nice place to hide switches and charge jacks. I believe the mod actually strengthens the cabin area of the Cub. With the 2 piece wing the struts are fully functional so make sure they are built to withand the stresses. You don't want to fold up the wings especially using a DLE-30. Inverted is the area that will give you the most trouble with the struts, The negative G's are harder on the struts.

Enjoy the build.
Anthony

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 4:33 PM   
Team_Monkey



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Status: offline 		Thanks Anthony.
I planned on adding the cabin wires of the mod but not taking the time to do the door/window part of the mod. The devil is in the details and I could see that adding a week to the build. It's a little daunting looking at the box and thinking "I'm going to make this build more complicated?" Does the door/window add that much time? Keeping in mind I've never glued a stick of balsa that wasn't cut for me.

I'm 1/2 tempted to just build the wing as a one piece with CF tow reinforcing top and bottom from tip to tip. I have a plane trailer and typically fly at my house anyway (500' runway and I back up to a 100 acre farm) so I don't really "need" the wing to break down.
Hmmm, I could build it as a 2 piece, CA the CF weave in place and then have the option of cutting it later to split the wing if needed. Thoughts?

As for the DLE, I picked that because I wanted power in vertical lines and to be able to use it on more airframes down the road. I'll be experimenting with props to keep it slow. Maybe a 20x8 if I can fit it on the airframe.

I have to finish up a Cermark SU-31 ARF converted to 8S electric and then I begin! Ideally I'll get started Thanksgiving weekend.

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 4:42 PM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		TM,
The wing does not need any reinforcement. It is good as is whether one piece or two. If you want to help the wing's then put a tube in them. The door mod is a relatively simple procedure. Besides, on a 6-12 month build, what's another week or two. If your going to do any mods at least let them be ones you are not gonna wish you did after you are done. Not of the kit sticks are cut-ready to glue. Everything will need to be fitted so by the time you get to the door you will be much better at cutting and fitting. If any issues do come up we are all here to help. If in doubt just ask our opinion. Most of the time we will give it anyway.
  Good Luck and post pics.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 4:48 PM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		This thread will let you see a two piece with a tubetube.    http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11083562/anchors_11083562/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#11083562


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 8:23 PM   
Team_Monkey



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Status: offline 		Thanks Ace,
6-12 months! I trust your estimate but I'll have to see what I can do about that. I won't survive it. Our annual SPAD gathering is in early June and I planned to finally finish my 1/5 scale FW-190 and we're doing an addition in the spring. Arrgh! Best laid plans of mice and men and all that... At least we're in the process of cleaning out the basement so I can set up a second build table. Being able to keep things going while something else is drying should help.

I read through your other thread and was wondering if the tube location was set in the ribs or if you stacked up the ribs, tilted the base and drilled with a hole saw in a drill press to set dihedral?

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 8:43 PM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		Thats too complicated. I stacked up the ribs (wing ribs not cabin)  drilled one size larger than the tube. After the wing's are framed up I assemled the three sections, raised the wing tips to the dyhedral, and epoxied the wing tube sleeve in place. A Cub does not have much dyhedral. Up to, on average, one degree.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/13/2012 10:26 PM   
Truckracer


 

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Status: offline 		I've seen full scale cubs that had zero dihedral. Just depends on how the struts are adjusted. I use just enough dihedral on a CUB model to know that it is not anhedral and leave it at that. A bit more doesn't hurt much and aileron differential will affect roll more than slight differences in dihedral.

The DLE 30 is a great 1/4 scale CUB engine and a 19-6 is just about perfect even though larger than scale. Ground clearance can be a problem if larger diameters are used.

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/14/2012 12:16 AM   
heritageman


 

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Status: offline 		Does anyone have a plan for drilling out for the hinge points on top of the ailerons ?

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/14/2012 1:58 AM   
SunDevilPilot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: heritageman

Does anyone have a plan for drilling out for the hinge points on top of the ailerons ?


You will find your answer here, about 10 posts down:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8857500/mpage_10/key_/tm.htm

SunDevilPIlot 


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/14/2012 2:17 AM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		Hey! That block method is the way I do it. WOW Guess I aint so dumb afterall. Or at least not the only one.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/14/2012 2:26 AM   
heritageman


 

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Status: offline 		Same thing I was thinking !

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/14/2012 4:36 AM   
Team_Monkey



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the info guys. And truckracer, I was just out your way for another fly in at the Newton Sky Kings's field in September. Our annual Spadfest will be out there again next June. Good times!

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/14/2012 3:44 PM   
Team_Monkey



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Status: offline 		Guys, Looking at the Cub Den door directions, is this supposed to be 5/16" Balsa? That seem odd and thick for a door outline but I'm not a balsa builder, yet.
"You will need to out line both the door and the door opening with 5/15 balsa."

On another note I found the maiden flight of my 17#, 105" span Piper Pawnee with an old Q40. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4x-c1upYg4&feature=colike
Only the first couple minutes are the pawnee, the rest are just our group antics. It looks like a turbo prop version because I had to extend the nose for CG.

< Message edited by Team_Monkey -- 11/14/2012 8:45 PM >

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/16/2012 5:20 AM   
Cub Flyer Fresno



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Status: offline 		Well, when you can't afford to cover the thing, might as well have some more fun with it! I decided to do Plug-N-Play wings. It's pretty much complete although I didn't get all the photos taken. These are from a couple nights ago so it's not all buttoned up (or prettied up) yet and I still need to silicone around the back side of the D-Sub connectors to insulate and protect the connection. I'll try to get some more photos when it's complete.  And by the way, thanks Robert (acerc) for helping me out with the ideas on this.  These forums are a great place to find help!

Photo 1:  Right wing panel connection.  Photo 2: T/E of the bottom center section (only the right wing connected).  Photo 3: Reverse angle of #2.  Photo 4: The connector at the back of the cabin.

Still have to silicone the connectors to insulate/protect the connections and clean it all up.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/17/2012 5:48 PM   
Neddy191



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Status: offline 		Progress continues on my first wing. Unfortunately my camera battery was low so some of the pics I tried to take didn't save.

I'm planning on 1 degree of dihedral. I cut 2 shims to 89 degrees and taped them to my squares to set the angle of the root rib when I glued it. Instead of building the spar pocket in the wing bay per plans I built it out of the bay and then installed it. In order to get the proper angle I used another wedge 1 degree off square to set the angle in the pocket. I marked the angle on the back side ply plate and then glued 2 spruce sticks to the the top and bottom of the spar pocket. After checking fit I installed the front ply plate and then glued the spar pocket (this pic didn't save).

Pic 1: root rib being glued to 1 degree from square to set dihedral
Pic 2: spar pocket dry fit before front ply plate glued and pocket glued into place. Note wedge outside root rib to set proper angle.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/17/2012 6:00 PM   
Neddy191



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Status: offline 		Most of the remainder of the wing (full wing version, not clipped) was built stock per plans. I installed the bottom sheeting and sheer webs per plans. I went ahead and installed all the strut mounts before doing any of the top sheeting. The main strut mounts were installed per plans - 1/4 piece of balsa sandwiched between 2 pieces of ply. I wanted to try to sandwich spars where possible to try to add as much strength as possible since these are functional spars. The jury strut mounts per plans are just pieces of ply inset into the bottom sheeting. On the rear jury strut mount I was able to cut out a piece of 1/4 balsa sheeting and another piece of ply to sandwich at least the forward portion of the mount around a spar. On the front jury strut mount there was no good way to sandwich a spar so I just ended up using a small piece of balsa stick to add a little strength. I used small fillet of epoxy around the seam of ply inset into balsa sheet.

Pic 1: Main strut mount sandwiched around spars per plans
Pic 2: Jury strut mount with extra piece of ply and balsa to sandwich around spars before installation
Pic 3: Front jury strut mount inlayed in sheeting
Pic 4: All strut mounts glued and drying.

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/17/2012 6:06 PM   
Neddy191



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Status: offline 		The right wing is coming along. I've installed the front leading edge sheeting. I just need to add the sheeting between W1-W2 and the servo hatch and I'll move onto the wingtip then left wing. I'm sure the left wing will go much more quickly than the right. I'll try to document the aileron assembly on the left wing build since that is what took me a while to understand and figure out and slowed my progress on the right wing.



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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/17/2012 11:30 PM   
Sidekick


 

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Status: offline 		Hi all,
Sig, 1/4 scale c/w Cub.

Can any of you talented builders in the Cub Brotherhood tell me how you covered the triangle parts on the Robart undercarriage?
Did you just cover directly on the steel, or did you fill in the triangles with balsa first?
I have watched with great interest ( and jellousey ) you guys building these cubs, but I never found any reference to the triangle parts.
I hope to get advice from you master builders, so here goes.

Regards,

Sidekick.

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/17/2012 11:56 PM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		I like to fill it with balsa. That area gets all the abuse of whatever is on the ground.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/18/2012 12:42 AM   
cannonball200



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Status: offline 		I never filled mine with balsa because I had never thought about it. I never had any issues but Robert has used the filler and sounds like a good idea to me.

Eddie

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/18/2012 12:50 AM   
Cub Flyer Fresno



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Status: offline 		Hmmm... I've never covered one so I couldn't tell ya.  But I will tell you this, Robert is an expert and what he says I sometimes always do!  I definitely might do this! 


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/18/2012 1:25 AM   
acerc



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Status: offline 		I had one catch a piece of balsa, leftover wreckage, that tore one side out.


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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/18/2012 2:02 AM   
swixtt



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Status: offline 		just fabric covered!!
i used dope on that to attach!. have never had an issue.

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/18/2012 2:22 AM   
VincentJ


 

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Status: online 		Sidekick, I covered my Cub in Solartex and I just went right over the tube without any filler.  I did it in two pieces (inside and outside) and the overlap between the two coverings was more than enough to hold it in place.  Either way would work well.

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RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build - 11/18/2012 3:19 AM   
SunDevilPilot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Sidekick

Hi all,
Sig, 1/4 scale c/w Cub.

Can any of you talented builders in the Cub Brotherhood tell me how you covered the triangle parts on the Robart undercarriage?
Did you just cover directly on the steel, or did you fill in the triangles with balsa first?
I have watched with great interest ( and jellousey ) you guys building these cubs, but I never found any reference to the triangle parts.
I hope to get advice from you master builders, so here goes.

Regards,

Sidekick.


Photo overview on my thread.  This link will take you right to it.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11291955

SunDevilPilot



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