Advantage 2x2 meter F3A Pattern
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Posts: 544
Joined: 1/6/2002 From: Garland,
TX, USA Status: offline
I’ve read in other posts discussions on how people are reinforcing their gear plates in the Brio, something that clearly needs to be done.
I took a different approach to this problem and thought I’d share it with everyone.
It’s worth noting that I’ve removed the false floor in this area, which makes this approach much easier, however, even without doing so a crafty builder may be able to accomplish the same thing.
The main problem I see with the gear plate design is that the glue points between the fuse and the wooden plates do not have enough surface area to withstand a sharp impact from a hard landing. It appears to me that the glue joints could easily pop loose, and there is no structure above the plates to keep them from sliding up. In addition, I found on my model the backside (inside) of the front plate had no glue fillet at all, and the inside of the back plate had incomplete fillets. Therefore, the first thing I did was to add glue fillets where they were missing.
The modification I made to strengthen the gear was meant to increase the surface area between the gear plat and the fuse. What I did was to laminate a piece of carbon fiber across the plate and the fuse on the backside of the plate, in-between the plates, and the front side of the plate. My hope is that this will spread the load out and provide a more secure bonding area.
It’s worth noting that I have yet to fly the plane so this approach is unproven, but it seems sound to me.
The pictures have outlines drawn showing where I added the carbon fiber reinforcement.
Keith B
< Message edited by KeithB -- 1/21/2006 8:07:34 PM >
Posts: 991
Joined: 1/6/2002 From: Chantilly, VA, USA Status: offline
Keith,
This is good re-inforcement. I would also suggest either wrapping the CF up and around the edge of the gear plate, or better yet a couple of small triangle lite ply pieces vertically on either side of the edge of the top part of the gear. I've had the ply gear plate separate from the ply tabs as well, which triangles on top solves. I can speak from experience that adding the small 1/8 inch lite ply vertical tabs and triangle pieces have held up quite well the last couple weekends flying from very soft ground. These took only about 30 minutes to slide in and install on the Brio I'm building now. They took a bit longer (about an hour) when I did it the first time on the Brio I'm flying. I did not take the tank or gear out, while doing this, but did take the pipe out. Also I used Zap Goo spread in each corner side with a finger to adhere the ply pieces to the fuse sides. This absorbs the sharp impact without popping loose.
Posts: 68
Joined: 4/19/2003 From: Kansas City,
MO, USA Status: offline
Keith, Are your pictures depicting the "stock" gear location or have you dropped your gear down too? Where did you get the carbon cloth that you used on the sides of your fuselage as well? Thanks! Charlie
Posts: 544
Joined: 1/6/2002 From: Garland,
TX, USA Status: offline
My gear is in the stock location.
This particular carbon fiber was given to me by a friend, however, I've also purchased CF and fiberglass cloth on-line, you can get it at most good Local Hobby Shops, but it's very expensive there.
I already flew my Brio more than 10 flights, flight characteristics was very good. Power of YS 160dz was awesome, I'm using coolpower 15% with 16.5x12 APC. I removed my rudder and changed it to balsa build up rudder to cut down on weight and balance the CG of the plane.
Posts: 3226
Joined: 10/18/2003 From: Nederland,
TX, USA Status: offline
In response to the guy asking about the DEPS system performance with the pushrods protruding 12" out of the fuselage. Smooth, crisp response with no indication of flex in flight. Flawless, rock solid design. Im flying a Genesis but same difference mine are sticking way out there about a foot. The DEPS system is awesome. Just set it up like Troy instructs in his DEPS installation thread in this forum and you will be thrilled at the end result.
_____________________________
Mike East AMA793948 RCU Reviews Moderator: 3D, IMAC and Pattern Forums.
Posts: 1368
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: Tracy,
CA, USA Status: offline
Mike I don't know how you trust that at 12 inches out. On my Eclipse (RIP) I had to put a hollow carbon rod over the solid rods. Mine were 10 and a half inches and I could pull full elevator on the stick and take and push the elevator back down. But with the hollow carbon rod over it, no problems. Stiffened right up. I am building a E focus 2 now as a semi temporary replacement till I get another Eclipse fuse and the exits are 12 inches out. I plan to use the hollow rod over it. You may want to try the test I was describing. Mine flexed easy. I could push down with my pinky!!!
I'm sure you have tested it well, but your plane is worth this test.. Chris
Posts: 1368
Joined: 7/3/2003 From: Tracy,
CA, USA Status: offline
I shoulda video'd it.... I was amazed at how it flexed. Well, all the better for you my friend... I'm setting up my DEPS right now in the focus. Kinda funny this came up!! Chris
I'm gonna maiden my Brio this coming Sunday and would like to ask you guys whats a good starting point for the throws on the rudder, ailerons and elevator. It would be more appreciated if its in millimeters. Thanks.
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RE: Piedmont Brio - 
Yup it has the Pinnacle 
