Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner  
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Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner - 3/7/2005 3:17:26 PM   
J_R


 

Posts: 4446
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: Corona, CA,
Status: offline 		I had been watching this technology for several years. The price has dropped from several thousand dollars to a couple of hundred. I have been looking for a way to digitize pictures taken with film cameras. My wife takes a picture of everything that moves and two of anything that doesn't. We have boxes of prints and film. In addition, at one point I thought it would be neat to have about every lens Topcon had to offer, and now those lenses are useless on the new digital cameras. So, what to do? When I showed this to my wife, she had to have one. We recieved it last week, and getting her off the computer is now harder. Although we have a digital camera, it does not take pictures at a level the analog ones we have do. So far, the results are impressive.

Pros: resolution to 3600 dpi 48 bit color
Cons: slow, takes up to 5 mintues to scan at the highest resolution. About 2 minutes at resolution better than digital. Files range from a few hundered KB to 50 MB.

So far, so good. Does anyone have any long term experience with these things? This one is a PrimeFilm 3650U and was on sale at Costco for $200.


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RE: Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner - 3/7/2005 3:19:22 PM   
MinnFlyer



Posts: 19640
Joined: 4/22/2002
From: Willmar, MN, USA
Status: offline 		JR, I have been using a $120,000 ICG Vertical Drum Scanner for about 8 or 9 years now, so I have had lots of experience scanning color negatives. It's not much different at all from scanning color transparencies (Slides) but I do notice that you should avoid using fast (200 ISO or higher) films, as the grain of the color platelets really stands out in the faster films.

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Mike B.
AMA# 42400 www.gettingairborne.com

"Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others." - Groucho Marx

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RE: Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner - 3/7/2005 3:44:04 PM   
J_R


 

Posts: 4446
Joined: 1/4/2002
From: Corona, CA,
Status: offline 		The few that I have done so far are at 200. They seem fine, as long as they are not blown up beyond an 8x10 print. When cropped and enlarged, there is some pixelation.

MinnFlyer, how do you find the comparison between scans and, say a good 8 mp digital shot.

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RE: Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner - 3/8/2005 11:59:50 AM   
MinnFlyer



Posts: 19640
Joined: 4/22/2002
From: Willmar, MN, USA
Status: offline 		A lot depends on the cameras and films involved of course, but I would say that they are comparable.

In other words, a really good digital may be better than a 35mm with 200 or 400 film, but a good clear 35mm neg may be better than some digital cameras

_____________________________

Mike B.
AMA# 42400 www.gettingairborne.com

"Those are my principles. If you don't like them, I have others." - Groucho Marx

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RE: Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner - 3/8/2005 4:53:19 PM   
Tall Paul



Posts: 4662
Joined: 6/23/2002
From: Palmdale, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I use the Prime Film scanner... on real old Kodachrome slides it picks up ALL the stuff.
Works fine with slides and negatives, both color and b/w.
No complaints.

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Sparky Paul
http://www.angelfire.com/indie/aerostuff

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RE: Inexpensive negative-positive 35mm film scanner - 3/8/2005 7:25:43 PM   
marwen1



Posts: 772
Joined: 3/25/2004
From: WINNIPEGMB, CANADA
Status: offline 		JR

I guess the best way to answer your question(s) is to know what you want to ultimately do with your scans.

I use an EPSON PERFECTION 2450 PHOTO. It scans negs (or transparencies) up to 2400 dpi optically. A 35mm neg scanned in at 2400 dpi (RGB) takes my system about 12 minutes to scan and produces a file well over 100MB.

PLEASE, know this, if all you want to do is scan images for the internet, then all you need to do is scan things in at 72 dpi and save as a jpg. If you want to print out a quality image -- DO NOT print from a jpg. The small they are the more "artifacting" you will produce. (little marks around the edges of lines) Try to ALWAYS save your image manipulation as a TIF and save it at 300 dpi. Now you have a fighting start at making a good print.

Also, do NOT change it from a small jpg and open up your manipulating program and change the file to a larger image. All you have done is muddyied up the process.

From your digital camera, load it onto you hard drive, open up your file and immediately change your dpi to 300, change the largest dimension to say, 10". The odds are that the other dimesion will automatically go to 7.5". SAVE IT AS A TIF!

This is all assuming that you CANNOT SHOOT AND SAVE AS A TIF!

marwen

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More than not, a matter of TACT!

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