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Joined: 1/18/2002 From: Lindenhurst,
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Nice job. My cg for the first few flights was set up at 4 1/2 inches. I personally didnt like it there for two reasons. One the plane nose droped to quickly in inverted maneuvers like inverted 45 degree up lines. Also the plane landed way to hot, You could not get the nose to flare well because she wanted to stall. I know have mine somewhere near 5-51/4 inches and she feels sweet with no bad habits. If you can get yours to wiegh in at 16 pounds then that will help but I beleive anything under 4" is way to nose heavy for any type of aerobatic plane with this kind of wing area.
< Message edited by SAL98 -- 4/12/2005 3:05:02 AM >
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SAL98,
We need to clarify where you are measuring the CG, at the wing tip or the wing root? Are you talking about the Extra 300LX or the Edge? Your numbers sound like what the Edge would call for on a CG. I haven't measured the CG from the wing root, I took a piece of string and put it between the measured CG at the wing tips, then marked it discretely on near the wing root with a dark blue pen.
I'll measure from the root and post the info as an edit here soon.
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Know that makes sense. I thought you ment you were measuring from the wing root all along. For a 540 with a straight leading edge, measuring at the tip is the same as measuring at the root but on other planes you want to measure at the root so you use a string to transfer your wing tip findings to the root like I'm assuming you did.
< Message edited by SAL98 -- 4/14/2005 11:01:11 AM >
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Installing the wings to drill my anti-rotation pins for the safety hairpins I ran into a difficulty for which I was not prepared. Inside the blind nuts that accept the 4mm bolts to secure the wing in place I found some solid red material of some kind. This red solid mass filled the blind nut so it was impossible to put in the 4mm bolts on the wings...both left and right wings were the same. I used a drill bit that was small enough not to damage thethreads and drilled out the red mass, only to find some grey pasty stuff beyond the red. I tried to chip the red stuff out, but the threads were not clearing out.
I proceeded to get a 4mm tap with the right threads and try to force the tap through the threads. I put thin CA around the blind nut to try to help keep the wood in tact. The left wing threaded through with a great deal of resistance, and the red and gray stuff came out of the threads. The right wing, however, did not fair so well. The tap wasn't going through the threads and the increased amount of torque I applied cause the blind nut to start stripping the wood around it. Drastic measures were going to have to be taken to get to this blind nut that was inside the wing, with foam behind it.
First I tried drilling a small hole through the root rib and the blind nut, hoping I could hold it in place with a large T-pin while I ran the tap through the blind nut. It didn't work.
I took a hole saw and cut out a section of the root rib right next to the blind nut in hopes that I could glue it back later without weakening the root rib. After the hole was made I could easily get to the blind nut to remove it from the wing. From there I held it firmly with pliers while I ran the tap through it; the rest of the grey and red stuff came out with considerable force on the tap.
I don't know what has to be done to make sure that other planes don't have this problem. Maybe I'm the only one who has had to deal with this issue, I don't know, but fixing getting the blind nuts cleared out was a major pain!
After the blind nut was re-secured with thick CA in its proper place on the wing root I glued the piece I had cut out with the hole saw back in with 5 minute epoxy, generously applied. I wiped the exterior surface of the root rib with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol to make sure the root rib was perfectly flat, just like it had been before the "surgery."
Edit: Tom Fawcett at Wild Hare has said that this "red stuff" is to prevent glue from getting into the blind nuts during assembly of the wing, and that it normally comes out easily with a pin. He thinks my problem is rare and no one should worry about it.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 5/27/2005 6:04:03 PM >
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After the wing root blind nut issue was taken care of I finished up the canopy. I couldn't find a 28% helmet head pilot anywhere, so I'll put one in when I find one. I trimmed the canopy to allow it to fit the hatch the way I liked, leaving a lip on the front for mounting purposes. I installed my instrument panel I got from Wild Hare R/C using epoxy and 6mm foam cut for support. I didn't want it pulling loose on a -10G blender or from the vibration that is always associated with gassers.
I chose to use Carbon Fiber printed Ultracote to secure the plastic canopy to the hatch. No screws were needed. Later, if I want to pull the canopy off for some reason I can just pull the Ultracote loose and the canopy will be off. My local hobby shop had an employee that was handy with an airbrush, so I had him use window tint for Lexan Car bodies to paint the inside of my canopy. It turned out great! The tint in the can wasn't smooth enough for a light tint, and I didn't want a clear canopy that would just disappear when the plane was in the air.
So, if anyone knows where I can get a 25-30% helmet-head pilot for my plane, please send me a PM. Thank you in advance.
Edit: For anyone wondering, the canopy I have came out of the Rit Dye after 1 hour completely clear! Dye didn't work at all.
< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 4/17/2005 9:29:45 PM >
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I use the rit dye on a Hangar 9 Ege 540 25% I had and it came out perfect. I put the canopy in hot rit dye that I warmed up on the stove. Not to hot to melt the canopy though. I left it in and kept pulling it out to check tint....It took about a half hour to get the tint I wanted.
I'm thankfull I had no issues with that blind nut on mine. Only problem was that I used the lighter wing tube that sells and I had to sand the inside of the phenolic tube of both wings and the inside of the fiberglass tube in the fuse. I used a 1" diameter dowl with sandpaper taped to the outside. Took about 15 minutes each wing wich was'nt that bad at all.
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SAL98:
I am using the TBM Carbon Fiber wing tube and it fits PERFECTLY!!! I am also using the TBM Carbon Fiber Stab Tube to get some weight out of the tail, and it fit perfectly after I trimmed it by about 1" or so. Both tubes slid in with a firm but not-too-tight fit. TBM also has great CF Spinners. Lighter than a feather, they look great and will let the prop spin up faster with less mass up front. Using the CF stab tube allowed me to use the CF spinner. What a combo!!! I can't wait to fly this baby...
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Okay, time for more pictures. The rudder servo arm and pull-pull wire installation is complete. I had to cut out some of the fuselage side to get the wires to clear. I used 3" to the center of the pivot point on the rudder tiller and an SWB 1-1/2" full arm on the DS8611 rudder servo mounted in the middle hole. The wires also rub a tiny bit on the former just in front of the wire cut-outs. I can't reach back there to dremel a divot for the wires, so I am going to let them cut a small slot on their own...I'll just keep tightening the wires as they slacken up from getting more straight, shouldn't be much.
After trimming the slot so much I decided to go with the shiny covers to make it look better again. I glued them on with canopy glue, we'll see how well they stay on...
The tailwheel is controlled by a shorter tiller put through the lower hole in the rudder. I stretched the springs a bit to make them long enough to reach. When I attached them I made sure there was only slight tension on the tailwheel to keep it centered.
Lastly I put everything together like it was going to fly, just to check the balance one last time. It balances perfectly 3" aft of the leading edge, measured at the wingtips (pulled string across and marked the wing root). I found the lateral balance to be off a little with the left wing being heavy. I am still contemplating how to add weight to the right wing effectively. Stick on weights seems to be the only option that doesn't involve cutting and recovering.
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She's ready to fly. I just need the North Dakota wind to calm back down. This is one beautiful plane. I see that Tom Fawcett is starting to stock more blue/yellow/white Extras, so if you call him you might be able to get your own in this color scheme.
One more picture of the fuselage layout...between this one and the rudder servo arm picture you can see the whole inside of the fuse. I used hot glue to secure the elevator extensions so they would not rub on the ply former they were passing through, and secured the RX antenna to the mounting tray with hot glue as well, then exited through the center stringer to run along the center of the aft fuselage. A rubber band to the tail wheel keeps tension on the antenna to hold it straight back along the fuselage.
I chose NX propellers for a couple of reasons. One, they were available right away from www.airwildpilotshop.com without a backorder. Two, I've heard from other people that they pull better than a Menz but don't load down the engine like an MSC. Third, they are supposed to be a little lighter than most other wood props with less flex...magic wonder-prop...we'll see how they do. I went with the 22x8 for break-in (hope to get ~7000 RPM) and a 23x8 for all around flying (3D and IMAC) after four gallons of 32:1 Lawnboy Ashless mix.
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Since I was gone for five days I get to take some time for myselft today. I took the Extra out in the back yard for some short run-ups to make sure nothing was going to vibrate loose and to make sure I could start the DA-50. I left the hatch off so I could watch everything inside while I ran up the engine. I am using the JR 9303 transmitter which allows a person tons of options on swich programmability and has more than enough functions. I chose to use the left slider for the choke. It has an adjustable choke now, so I can choke it when its cold to start and then warm it up on half choke (there's a detent for half on the TX) or start it on half choke when its been sitting for a few minutes at the field.
I tethered the aircraft for safety using a dog leash and one of those screws that goes into the ground. I hooked the leash onto the tailwheel. I had to hand prop the plane since it has a carbon fiber spinner...can't take an electric starter...and I didn't need one. Ten flips to draw fuel into a brand new engine with full choke and it popped. I went to half choke and it fired after two flips! As advertised. ) I set the needles where the instructions say to start and it seemed a little lean to me...no hesitation at all on throttle up, so I richened both needles 1/8 turn, now it throttles up a little slower. I made sure to stand in front of the stab for the run-ups so I didn't put any pressure on the tailwheel...that hook-up was just for safety during starting.
I have a tach, but I'm going to wait until I get to the field to tach the motor. I am looking for about 6900 - 7200 rpm with the 22x8 prop at full throttle...in any case, I'll richen it to 300 rpm below peak. Off to the field this afternoon!
Edit: After a couple of 3 minute runs I tightened the prop bolts...I'll check them after the first 5 minute flight too, and periodically after that.
Edit: I couldn't stand not knowing what the prop was turning at, and the wind was howling...I didn't want to maiden this plane in 30 mph winds... Idle 2340 rpm, Full throttle 6480 rpm, it might be a little too rich, the 22x8 should be giving me more than that...
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All Forums >> Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> User Product Reviews >> RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White 
RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 
) I set the needles where the instructions say to start and it seemed a little lean to me...no hesitation at all on throttle up, so I richened both needles 1/8 turn, now it throttles up a little slower. I made sure to stand in front of the stab for the run-ups so I didn't put any pressure on the tailwheel...that hook-up was just for safety during starting.