RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> User Product Reviews >> RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 [3] 4   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/14/2005 1:04:26 AM   
Young-RCPilot



Posts: 243
Joined: 3/28/2005
From: hamilton, ON, CANADA
Status: offline
Well You Got Me Convinced So I Am Going To Have To Order This Plane Now. I Was Wondering How This Plane Knife Edges Because It Says There A Little Mixing Needed On The LX.

_____________________________

Theres only 1 way to see if your plane is built strong, How You Ask?
BLENDER!

(in reply to scottfl78)
       Post #: 51

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/14/2005 1:10:14 AM   
rare_bear



Posts: 1164
Joined: 3/20/2003
From: north of the basin, CA, USA
Status: offline
also, what made you guys choose this plane over the 300 special?

(in reply to Young-RCPilot)
       Post #: 52

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/14/2005 2:44:46 AM   
FlyinTiger



Posts: 642
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Penn Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline
I will run the complete trimming sequence as outlined by Peter Goldsmith in Feb and Apr Model Aviation mags, but from the ten flights I did before I left, still breaking in the engine on the smaller prop...changing the prop changes EVERYTHING! So, the little bit of mixing I have put in to make the plane flyable for engine break-in and the "getting used to it" flights has been minimal:

15-3/4 pounds all up weight - no fuel in the tank
CG - 3" back from the leading edge at the wingtips (string used to mark the wings near fuselage)
rudder to elevator - 3% up for flat turns, we do way more rolling turns than knife edge, so I use flat turns to set this mix (Pete's suggestion), and it knife edges right on!
rudder to aileron - none.

After I get the NX 23x8 put on and my 4th gallon is through the engine, I'll start over with the trimming sequence and get everything right. Here's just the order of events.

Don’t skip ahead. The following sequence will ensure that each subsequent adjustment will have no effect on the previous adjustments. These are the building blocks of a trimmed aircraft in order: center of gravity (CG), dynamic balance (wingtip weight), thrust angle, aileron differential, THEN P-mixing (i.e. knife edge tracking, roll coupling, down-line tracking, etc.). Remember, if you change your propeller, everything changes!


I followed Tom's advice and got the LX because I liked the way it looked better! Now he offers IMAC wings with an airfoil that will snap and stall better...those come on the "Special." The LX tracks like an arrow and is perfect for 3D and IMAC maneuvers for me because I am not going to be flying Intermediate yet...if you're a hardcore IMAC flyer you should probably go with the Extra 260, a little bigger and is designed for IMAC, even though Bill Hempel won the Freestyle using it at his last contest.

Good luck and happy flying!



_____________________________

FlyinTiger

(in reply to Young-RCPilot)
       Post #: 53

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/14/2005 4:16:22 AM   
rare_bear



Posts: 1164
Joined: 3/20/2003
From: north of the basin, CA, USA
Status: offline
thanks for spending the energy in writing up this thread. i've got it bookmarked for future reference when i pick up one of these planes. just haven't decided on the LX or the special. but i do like the red/black/yellow color scheme.

(in reply to FlyinTiger)
       Post #: 54

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/14/2005 10:46:34 PM   
Young-RCPilot



Posts: 243
Joined: 3/28/2005
From: hamilton, ON, CANADA
Status: offline
I Decided To Go With The Extra LX Because The Highest I Will Be Going In IMAC Will Probably Be Sportsmen And I Would Like To Do More 3D Then Fly The Sequence All The Time So The LX Is The Choice For Me Another Reason I Picked It Was Because I Will Be Installing A Canister In It.

< Message edited by Young-RCPilot -- 6/26/2005 2:20:13 AM >


_____________________________

Theres only 1 way to see if your plane is built strong, How You Ask?
BLENDER!

(in reply to rare_bear)
       Post #: 55

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/16/2005 1:46:22 AM   
rare_bear



Posts: 1164
Joined: 3/20/2003
From: north of the basin, CA, USA
Status: offline
Hey Flying Tiger,

Did you get the cabon fiber landing gear on your plane?

In post 46, it looks like you have the aluminum gear on. If you're planning to install carbon fibers, I'd be interested in a new weight measurement.

-RB

(in reply to FlyinTiger)
       Post #: 56

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/16/2005 11:08:48 AM   
FlyinTiger



Posts: 642
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Penn Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline
Don't worry, as the aircraft changes I will put updates on this review. I'll do the final RCU Magazine review once I've tried the CF gear and trimmed the plane completely.

No, I don't have the gear on the plane yet...still waiting on Brian at RCSuperGear.com to get it done. I'll post a new weight when it's in my hands.

_____________________________

FlyinTiger

(in reply to rare_bear)
       Post #: 57

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/16/2005 5:32:05 PM   
rare_bear



Posts: 1164
Joined: 3/20/2003
From: north of the basin, CA, USA
Status: offline
thanks, i will stay tuned.

when i get this kirt, it will be my entry into gasoline powered engines.... so you'll have to excuse me if this is one of those "dumb questions"...

post number 22:
(and i will simply repost the images in this post so you don't have to travel backwards in this thread)

in the first picture, i added a red arrow with a label "A" pointing to the ignition module. i looks like you have the battery pack strapped down as well.

in the second picture, i have a red arrow with a label "B" pointing to what appears to be a batter module or housing.

did you end up moving the battery pack from point A to point B or leave it at point A?
maybe i'm confused and point B is not a battery pack at all???





Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by rare_bear -- 6/16/2005 5:36:23 PM >

(in reply to FlyinTiger)
       Post #: 58

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/16/2005 7:48:18 PM   
FlyinTiger



Posts: 642
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Penn Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline
It looks like you are pointing at my ignition battery regulator. Good question. I am running a Lithium-Ion battery on the ignition as well as on the receiver. I like the ease of charging, the great charge retention (doesn't discharge over time like NiCad or NiMh), light weight and the constant voltage that my aircraft is seeing from the time I first turn it on to the last flight of the weekend.

The batteries hardly show a voltage drop under load after a whole weekend of flying! I am using fail-safe regulated switches...if something goes wrong they fail in the "ON" position.

A: Ignition battery mounted on the motorbox

B: Regulator for ignition battery mounted inside the aircraft

_____________________________

FlyinTiger

(in reply to rare_bear)
       Post #: 59

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/17/2005 12:29:34 AM   
sbaugz


 

Posts: 772
Joined: 6/17/2003
From: waukesha, WI, USA
Status: offline
I just ordered one from Wild Hare today with a DA-50. I forgot to ask Tom whether or not the Robert type hinges came with the ARF or not. Tom is gone until next week and I wanted to order some stuff while I wait. If someone can answer, please let me know. Thanks.

(in reply to Young-RCPilot)
       Post #: 60

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/17/2005 12:52:34 AM   
flatlandmike



Posts: 1146
Joined: 10/6/2003
From: lexington, KY, USA
Status: online
yep the robart hinges come with the arf

_____________________________

www.jerseymodeler.com
Special thanx to The Crew Mike B. Jim Z. Ed J. Jim S.

(in reply to sbaugz)
       Post #: 61

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/17/2005 2:09:22 AM   
FlyinTiger



Posts: 642
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Penn Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline
Robart hinges will come already in the hinge holes, except for the rudder. These hinges are just sitting there though, you need to take them out, carefully trim any covering from around the hole that might be left over from the drilling, and then install the hinges using your favorite hinge glue (I like Gorilla) and the techniques associated with that glue.

_____________________________

FlyinTiger

(in reply to flatlandmike)
       Post #: 62

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/17/2005 5:02:56 PM   
sbaugz


 

Posts: 772
Joined: 6/17/2003
From: waukesha, WI, USA
Status: offline
So, how difficult and time consuming a process is it to dissassemble the plane for transport? I would assume it involves two screws to remove canopy, two screws to remove the wings and unplug the servos, then 4 screws to remove the horizontal stabs?

(in reply to FlyinTiger)
       Post #: 63

RE: Wild Hare 28% Extra 300LX Blue Yellow White - 6/18/2005 11:40:34 AM   
FlyinTiger



Posts: 642
Joined: 1/26/2004
From: Penn Valley, CA, USA
Status: offline
If you have to take the stabs off for transport then, yes it takes 2 screws and removing the linkage from each servo on each side (4 screws and 2 linkages total).

The wings are held onto the fuselage by two bolts and I use a hairpin on each side through the anti-rotation dowel in the rear as insurance. People have said their wing-bolts have vibrated out on occasion, though I've never had this problem.

I leave my stabs on for transportation, and this would be possible in most any vehicle larger than a midsize suv (i.e. bigger than a Trailblazer). It takes me about ten to fifteen minutes at the field to get everything out, put it all together, fuel it up, and do preflight checks so I am sure everything is tight and safe for the first flight of the day. I timed it so I would know how late I could fly before I had to clean up and put everything away to be home for dinner!

Here's a picture of the inside of my assembled fuselage. You can see the fishing line I use to keep those hairpins from wandering off, and the tips of the aft anti-rotation dowels.

Edit: You can also see the two socket head cap screws I use with big washers to hold the wings in place. Those come in the WH hardware kit with washers. The hatch is held in by two bolts that go through the side of the fuse and into two tabs that stick down into slots in the fuselage...pretty conventional. You could use BVM sliding hatch pins, that would be cool...you would have to make them fit tight so they wouldn't vibrate and cause problems, but they would be nice.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by FlyinTiger -- 6/18/2005 11:45:49 AM >


_____________________________

FlyinTiger

(in reply to sbaugz)