FlyinTiger
Posts: 642
Joined: 1/26/2004 From: Penn Valley,
CA, USA Status: offline
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I will run the complete trimming sequence as outlined by Peter Goldsmith in Feb and Apr Model Aviation mags, but from the ten flights I did before I left, still breaking in the engine on the smaller prop...changing the prop changes EVERYTHING! So, the little bit of mixing I have put in to make the plane flyable for engine break-in and the "getting used to it" flights has been minimal: 15-3/4 pounds all up weight - no fuel in the tank CG - 3" back from the leading edge at the wingtips (string used to mark the wings near fuselage) rudder to elevator - 3% up for flat turns, we do way more rolling turns than knife edge, so I use flat turns to set this mix (Pete's suggestion), and it knife edges right on! rudder to aileron - none. After I get the NX 23x8 put on and my 4th gallon is through the engine, I'll start over with the trimming sequence and get everything right. Here's just the order of events. Don’t skip ahead. The following sequence will ensure that each subsequent adjustment will have no effect on the previous adjustments. These are the building blocks of a trimmed aircraft in order: center of gravity (CG), dynamic balance (wingtip weight), thrust angle, aileron differential, THEN P-mixing (i.e. knife edge tracking, roll coupling, down-line tracking, etc.). Remember, if you change your propeller, everything changes! I followed Tom's advice and got the LX because I liked the way it looked better! Now he offers IMAC wings with an airfoil that will snap and stall better...those come on the "Special." The LX tracks like an arrow and is perfect for 3D and IMAC maneuvers for me because I am not going to be flying Intermediate yet...if you're a hardcore IMAC flyer you should probably go with the Extra 260, a little bigger and is designed for IMAC, even though Bill Hempel won the Freestyle using it at his last contest. Good luck and happy flying!
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FlyinTiger
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