RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !!  
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC 1/8th Scale Buggies >> RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !!
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RE: ... - 3/7/2008 11:05:19 PM   
vsfriedmugan



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Joined: 3/7/2008
From: Shreveport, LA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: dicko

I've only seen 1 MBX5 with that part in ali. most people don't bother replacing it as it adds too much weight & is more of a downgrade in terms of racing. I have no idea who made it either. it'd be somewhere on this thread.

Thanks,

Yea Iam always in for more poooooower ! ! ! !


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(in reply to dicko)
       Post #: 1301

RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !! - 3/7/2008 11:22:55 PM   
vsfriedmugan



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From: Shreveport, LA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: mbx5prospec

I always use WD40 to clean my car, I spray it on the blow it off, but taking my car a part I noticed that all hinge pin assemblies have a black gook type of residue that seems to actually create a resistance in the arms movement. I'm starting to think that WD40 isn't really the thing to clean your car with? What do you guys think? I think I'm just going to air clean my car... One of the guys at my track do this, all he uses is the air compressor and a tooth brush

Simple green works like a charm. Its chemical free.


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(in reply to mbx5prospec)
       Post #: 1302

RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !! - 3/7/2008 11:40:11 PM   
vsfriedmugan



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From: Shreveport, LA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: blackrain

im a new mbx 5 owner plan on building my kit this weekend wanted to know what servos are you guys running. about how much tork for steering and what speed on throttle. this is my first buggy i usually run monster trucks.

I run JR Z8800's and iam very pleased with there outputs..

Z8800T Digital High-Torque Surface Specs
Type: High-Torque Digital Servo
Torque: 155 oz/in @ 4.8V, 188 oz/in @ 6V
Speed: .18 sec/60° @ 4.8V, .15 sec/60° @ 6V
Dimensions (WxLxH): .75" x 1.54" x 1.36"
Weight: 2.0 oz
Bearing: Dual output
Motor Type: Coreless
Gears: Metal


Z8800S Digital High-Speed Surface Specs
Type: High-Speed Digital Servo
Torque: 88 oz/in @ 4.8V, 105 oz/in @ 6V
Speed: .10 sec/60° @ 4.8V, .08 sec/60° @ 6V
Dimensions (WxLxH): .75" x 1.54" x 1.36"
Weight: 2.0 oz
Bearing: Dual output
Motor Type: Coreless
Gears: Metal





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       Post #: 1303

RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !! - 3/8/2008 12:22:46 AM   
vsfriedmugan



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From: Shreveport, LA, USA
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Where can I get a good crowdpleazer custom lidz!!


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       Post #: 1304

RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !! - 3/8/2008 12:48:26 AM   
vsfriedmugan



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From: Shreveport, LA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: JustinWZP

The boots won't do what you are wanting. Those things wear out and tear after moderate racing. The only ones that have lasted have been the rears. What you want to do is shink wrap the CVD's with some 3/4inch to keep everything together. I've done this with all of my RC's and it has worked wonders. I don't notch mine or anything.........i just rebuild them and shink wrap them after three weekends of racing and it always works out great. I've never lost a pin.

My camera is busted so I can't take a picture for you. Just imagine a piece of shrink wrap around the whole CVD. Shrink wraop has worked much better than those boots ever have.

Hey JustinWZP,
When you get a chance i'd like to c a pic of that!


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       Post #: 1305

RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !! - 4/9/2008 7:16:53 PM   
michaelfox


 

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From: bergen, NORWAY
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if you adjust Brake endpoint you can fix this problem quite easily.
make the endpoint just short of flexing the chassis or servo tray.
it will not effect the brake efficiensy

(in reply to zha50)
       Post #: 1306

RE: :: Official MBX5/Prospec Thread !! - 4/9/2008 7:20:00 PM   
michaelfox


 

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From: bergen, NORWAY
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quote:

ORIGINAL: zha50

What i would like for the side guards is a more stiff plastic mould so the not dosent always like spin and strip.

I've got some problems with the QC on some of the pasitic parts. . . . but i doubt it was a mfg error considereing what i was using it for.
Just a broken front lower arm and bent rear shock.

And yeh. . . . hate that throttle linkage thingy. . . . keeps on binding(brake drag ).

Is it normal for the radio tray the FLEX abit during extreem braking?


if you adjust the brake endpoint to stop short of flexing the serco tray you will fix the problem.
i will not affect brake efficency

(in reply to zha50)
       Post #: 1307

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 4:18:55 AM   
D_Lite


 

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From: Bezerkley, CA, USA
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Please help!

I'm having trouble attaching the steering uprights to the upper and lower arms...there's about 1/4" of the screw thread still showing, but there is alot of resistance, so i'm afraid if i force it, i'll strip the head... has anyone encountered this problem or have any suggestions?

Thanx in advance!

(in reply to michaelfox)
       Post #: 1308

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 6:09:11 AM   
UF DUB


 

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From: lake city, FL, USA
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sounds like it may be cross threaded...

(in reply to D_Lite)
       Post #: 1309

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 7:44:45 PM   
AiRevo


 

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From: Mansfield, PA, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: D_Lite

Please help!

I'm having trouble attaching the steering uprights to the upper and lower arms...there's about 1/4" of the screw thread still showing, but there is alot of resistance, so i'm afraid if i force it, i'll strip the head... has anyone encountered this problem or have any suggestions?

Thanx in advance!



They are supposed to be very tight, a regular aluminum handle hex wrench wont do it, i always use an hex wrench socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet to put in the pivot ball caps the first time. Once they are tightened the first time, then they will be easier adjust.




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Modded Mugen MBX5T Prospec(O.S. SPEED 21VZ-B V-Spec, BCE, M2C, KHZ, Dace, Futaba, Hitec..), Race-Revo, 2-Axial comp crawlers

(in reply to D_Lite)
       Post #: 1310

RE: ... - 5/18/2008 11:42:25 PM   
dicko



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Do them up a bit, then back them out & clear out any excess plastic, then do them up some more etc until you get all the way in. They are supposed to be tight, but tapping them in & backing them out helps.

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       Post #: 1311

RE: ... - 7/13/2008 6:16:18 AM   
D_Lite


 

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From: Bezerkley, CA, USA
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I was wondering...when you make the notch in the CV pin for the grub screw to sit in...which Dremel bit do you use? Also, does anyone have pix they can post of theirs with heat shrink over it? It would be helpful to see what it looks like... Thanx!

(in reply to dicko)
       Post #: 1312

RE: ... - 7/13/2008 5:21:58 PM   
topcat-lll


 

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From: , AL, ALBANIA
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I put the pin in a vice and use the dremel large cutting wheel; this works so I do not need or use shrink tape.

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       Post #: 1313

RE: ... - 7/13/2008 11:55:12 PM   
D_Lite


 

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From: Bezerkley, CA, USA
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is there a trick to mark where you make the notch in the pin? or do you just eyeball the center?

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       Post #: 1314

RE: ... - 7/14/2008 12:22:33 AM   
dicko



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From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
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you can dummy build the CV joint, when you do up the grub screw it will mark the pin, then you know where to cut. I also blunt the tip of the grub screw so it has a larger contact surface on the pin and use GOOD thread lock, not cheap duratrax stuff. buy the real deal.

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The answer is always more power.

(in reply to D_Lite)