how do you make after run oil?

how do you make after run oil? (Full Version)

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99GrandTouring -> how do you make after run oil? (9/30/2002 2:18:40 PM)
I was told that you can use Automatic transmission fluid as after run oil? Should I just use pure ATF?? Also the ATF I have is mobil one SYNTHETIC.... does it matter? Thanks

lurch -> atf (9/30/2002 7:45:24 PM)
I've also heard about using atf but not too sure about synth. I don't see how it would hurt though.

quint-rcu -> how do you make after run oil? (9/30/2002 8:02:31 PM)
I make a trip to the local car parts store and buy Marvel Mystery Oil. Looks, smells and feels just like commercial after-run. - Hmmm? quint :D

CaptKAOS -> how do you make after run oil? (9/30/2002 9:40:01 PM)
Get the Marvel Mystery Oil for Air Tools......contains a rust inhibitor.....better than the regular Marvel Mystery Oil..... My 1.675 cents worth.....

wingnutII -> how do you make after run oil? (9/30/2002 10:04:22 PM)
"Get the Marvel Mystery Oil for Air Tools......contains a rust inhibitor" More Importantly it has an affinity for water, due to the fact that airtools have alot of condensation if not set up right, ie. no water traps or dryers. Marvel Mystery Oil for Air Tools, is the best you can get for an after run.

hauckf -> how do you make after run oil? (9/30/2002 10:09:41 PM)
I was taught to use Marvel Mystery Oil for after run oil, and ATF for long term storage of engines. I've been using the regular MMO for years (a quart last forever!) and have never had any rust problems. When its gone, I'll buy the airtool oil. Burning all the fuel out of the engine at the end of the day before adding the after run oil is also very important.

DLT -> After run oil (9/30/2002 11:16:51 PM)
I mix 1 part air tool oil to 4 parts MMO......seems to work for me.

rsieminski -> how do you make after run oil? (10/1/2002 5:31:44 AM)
How about good old castor, for between sessions?

bigbadbowtie -> WD-40 (10/2/2002 10:18:22 PM)
Im not sure on the airplain engines but I have been using wd-40 in my stadium truck for after run oil for quite sometime. Traxxas actually says to use WD-40 in the manual for the new T-maxx. Works for me.I have 3 gallons through my current ABC motor and it has great compression still. I have been told not to use it but why change if it works! Just adding my .02 cents. Ray

redxfred -> OS SAID... (10/2/2002 10:27:38 PM)
A buddy recommended a 50-50 mix of Marvel mystery oil and ATF. Being an untrusting soul, I asked the tech reps at O.S. Engines about this and they said this formula makes an excellent after run oil. Be sure to use enough! I put 2 cc (4 eyedroppers' worth) in the carb and hold the plane left, right, up and down to slosh it around in there. Spin the prop a few times to coat the bearings but use caution. I'm advised that this stuff may diesel-fire in a warm engine. Fred

RedStickFlyer -> WD-40 (10/2/2002 10:39:26 PM)
Did you know that WD-40 was originally formulated for the military as a rust inhibitor. WD stands for Water Displacer. I would expect it to be an excellent rust inhibitor. I would suggest the best way to put it in is to spray it in the carb and preferably while the engine is turning with the electric starter. I killed the engine with a shot of WD-40 into the carb. The high vapro pressure of the WD-40 allows it to atomize and coat more evenly than normal oil. The after run oil is only going to protect what it contacts. By the same token, the high vapor pressure of WD-40 also lets it evaporate. Therefore, I would not use it for winter sorage but as a rust inhibitor between flights it should work well. The key in after run oil is to get everything coated. A couple of drops in the carb might make you feel good about having used it but you have to put enough in to coat the bearings. Keep in mind on most model engines the crank shaft of over hung meaning that both the bearings are on the propeller side of the piston so after you get the oil in the crank case you need to get it up to the front of the plane. I suspect most people get little bennifit from after run oil because they only get it on the aluminum parts that already are not going to corrode. I have not done any studies or testing to prove this. Its just my opinion as a chemical engineer who runs a petro chem plant. I hope this helps

Dave Harmon -> how do you make after run oil? (10/4/2002 4:17:35 AM)
Redstick....You are right...it works great on my sport engines. What I do is to stick the red plastic tube into the carb ad open the throttle 2 or 3 clicks, give it a couple of good shots and start the engine (with the fuel line off) Then, I keep the engine running on the WD by giving more shots as the propellant is burned. This will distribute the WD and it really does help a lot and the engine is real loose next time out. I used to mix a 50/50 mix of castor and alky as an after run and then run the engine on that. That will completely stop all corrosion and rust but it can get a little messy. Oh..the castor/alky mix was in a small external fuel tank so you don't have to put any in the airplane tank. If your engine has any silicone rubber internal parts, dont use WD40 or any petroleum product because the silicone will swell.

GMPheli -> how do you make after run oil? (10/14/2002 8:52:06 PM)
The problem you can run into using WD-40 is that it is designed to loosen rust. If you have any rust inside the engine and the WD-40 breaks it free, the rust (iron oxide) makes a wonderful abrasive. This is per Clarence Lee. Alan Angus

bdtsr -> how do you make after run oil? (10/25/2002 6:50:50 PM)
Go to a marine supply store (or auto parts) and get the CRC Engine Fogging Oil or similar. This is designed for long term storage of engines (both aluminium and iron blocks). It is cheap, lasts along time (large can) and will prevent rust. I live very near the water on the east coast and take every precaution to keep moisture out of my engines. I have been using this since I started flying (6yrs ago) and only have replaced bearing in engines I bought from other people. I spray this into the carb and the cylinder and work it around. When the engine is fired up this oil will burn right out.

Graxafone -> how do you make after run oil? (11/8/2002 6:39:36 PM)
What do you think of Hobbico's After Run Oil? And just to let you know, the 40 in WD-40 means that it is the 40th attempt at a good formula of oil and chemicals.

adrian-RCU -> how do you make after run oil? (11/9/2002 9:43:06 PM)
80% parrafien 20% any engine oil. costs nothing and a liter lasts for ever

Mike Parsley -> how do you make after run oil? (11/13/2002 8:38:17 PM)
[QUOTE]Originally posted by CaptKAOS Get the Marvel Mystery Oil for Air Tools......contains a rust inhibitor.....better than the regular Marvel Mystery Oil..... My 1.675 cents worth..... [/QUOTE] I agree with the Capt. The Marvel Air Tool Oil does a good job for any price, but it is cheaper. Panhead Mike

Volfy -> how do you make after run oil? (11/14/2002 12:44:06 AM)
Pick an air tool oil that is specifically for pneumatic fasterners. These are formulated to work with the diaphragms, piston seals and such in nail guns. The common air tool oil are meant to be used in rotating air tools (drills, impact wrenches, etc.) with no rubber parts inside. Many construction crew don't even know this and end up returning their brand new $400 nail guns complaining of blown diaphragms. For us RCers using airtool oil as afterrun oil, it's not as big a deal. But if you have pumped engines, you'll be well advised to heed this precaution. I found Senco brand air tool oil at Lowes or Home Depot and that's what I use, since Senco makes nothing but pneumatic nailers. No disrespect to Marvin Mystery Oil or its happy users, but there is nothing special about what's in it. I think somebody sometime ago once mentioned it as an example and EVERYBODY ever since, not knowing any better, just took it as gospel.

Fuel Dinosaur -> Marvel AIR TOOL Oil (11/18/2002 9:13:32 PM)
This is an excellent oil to help prevent rust in your bearings. It is about $4.95 a quart and will last a LONG time. You can also buy it in smaller plastic bottles if you wish. Run your fuel out of your engine after flying for the day and drop about 6-8 small drops down the carb. Turn it over briefly with the starter to distribute the oil. Also, castor oil is pretty good at keeping the inside of an engine relatively rust-free. Despite the hype, castor is often superior to many synthetic oils with respect to keeping rust down in a small engine. An air tool oil is designed to trap moisture and keep the various air tools from rusting. There is always water in the compressed air, and you have to be on guard all the time to protect your air tools from rusting on you. These air tool oils are about $3 to $5 a quart and provide excellent protection. Just putting in my two cents worth and 45 years of modeling for what it is worth.

Fuel Dinosaur -> OOPS, forgot RISLONE too (11/18/2002 9:16:48 PM)
This oil is generally less expensive than Marvel Air Tool Oil and also does a nice job holding down rust. This is especially important if you store some of your engines over the winter. Most of these overpriced after-run oils perform no better than these two, Rislone and Marvel Air Tool Oil.

Mike Parsley -> making after run oil (11/19/2002 9:34:49 PM)
[QUOTE]Originally posted by wingnutII "Get the Marvel Mystery Oil for Air Tools......contains a rust inhibitor" More Importantly it has an affinity for water, due to the fact that airtools have alot of condensation if not set up right, ie. no water traps or dryers. Marvel Mystery Oil for Air Tools, is the best you can get for an after run. [/QUOTE] I agree,you don't have to mix anything. Use with confidence after running fuel out. Panhead

Pepe J -> After Run (11/20/2002 10:46:11 AM)
I've been for many years using AW-32- R & O Hydraulic Oil with very good results and a couple of engines were stored in some pretty nasty environments with no ill effects. The R & O stands for anti-rust & anti-oxidizing. Lately I have been mixing in a little Marvel MO with it. I'm not sure if the R & O is silicone compatible thou, but it sure works good as an after run. I use one of those 2 oz. finger pump oil cans with a piece of fuel tubing and literally "Inject" it into the engine. Works especially well hooked up to 4 stroke crank vents. Pat.

PilotFrog -> how do you make after run oil? (12/6/2002 7:26:27 PM)
I use a combo of the WD-40 and Marvel air tool oil. At the end of the day I run the engine dry and then run it for a couble of bursts on WD-40. I then give it a liberal squirt of MMO and spin it with the electric starter. I have stored engines in the plane for over a year like this by just wrapping the nose with a cloth to keep out dust. No rust and they remain just as free as the day of the last flight. PilotFrog

GMPheli -> how do you make after run oil? (12/6/2002 10:17:55 PM)
Clarence Lee (of RCM's engine clinic) recomends 50% ATF and 50% air tool oil. According to him, the airtool oil is for antirusting, and the ATF is for film strenght. FWIW. Alan Angus

bdtsr -> how do you make after run oil? (12/6/2002 11:32:34 PM)
I still say CRC Engine Stor. Comes in a spray can with small injection tube a designed for long term engine storage. It is available at most auto & marine parts stores.

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