Synthetic fuel? (Full Version)

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Pilot Chad -> Synthetic fuel? (6/10/2005 9:43:42 PM)

Do i need to run afterrun oil if i am using all synthetic fuel? I know you don't for morgan, but is that for all of them?



downunder -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (6/11/2005 3:29:38 AM)

The short answer would be yes for any fuel that doesn't have castor in it and I'd include Morgans as well (regardless of what they say on the label). In general, synthetics don't like to stay on metal surfaces for any length of time. On the rare occasions I've used an all synthetic I'll give the engine a short run with an all castor fuel before putting it away.



RaceCity -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (6/11/2005 5:35:10 AM)

Absolutely. Just like Downunder says. Oil is cheap insurance, and can/does extend the life of bearings and all sorts of other
expensive to replace bits inside your motor.

Forget those tiny little bottles of "After run oil" sold in hobby shops for exorbitant prices. Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, and a host of other
low-viscosity off the shelf oil products work very well (or better) and, a couple bucks will buy enough of those to last for several years.

Run the motor dry at the end of the day....give the motor a nice healthy drink of oil, flip the prop a few times to distribute the lube and you're ready to run another day. Takes only a minute, and adds hours to the life of your motor.

Have fun!

'Race




SoonerAce -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (9/7/2005 10:42:16 AM)

Mobil 1 works great for me. Havent had a problem yet, Zero Corrosion. and its synthetic!!



Hobbsy -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (9/7/2005 1:57:43 PM)

Perfect example, I bought a well used MDS 1.48 from a gentleman in Mo. He said up front it was a high time engine that had only been run using all synthetic lube, a good thing I thought. When I pulled the backplate the inside was spotless, the only visible oil was in the big end of the rod bearing. A Q-tip swabbed on the inside of the crankcase and counterweight came up clean but the rear bearing was badly rusted and the piston ring was rusted to the cylinder. New Boca Bearings and a piston, ring and liner fixed it right up. It's now a Diesel.



RaceCity -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (9/14/2005 3:34:45 AM)

Good one Hobbsy...reminds me of an HB .40 PDP I had years ago that was fed a steady diet of all synthetic. I parked the motor for a season, and when I came back to it? It was a pitted, corroded piece of garbage. Clean though. No pesky castor residue...just rust.

<G>

Bean oil is good oil...

'Race






Blue_Moon_ -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (10/22/2005 12:18:17 AM)

Is standard motoroil for cars OK to use as after run oil? Should i use syntetic or mineral oil?



Motorboy -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (10/22/2005 6:01:35 AM)

Blue_Moon_..
Both types... i has used motoroil of both types in the modelengines and zero rust.

Before we got syntetics oil in fuel, the after-run oil was strange of word.

Jens Eirik



Blue_Moon_ -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (10/23/2005 11:42:15 AM)

thanks![:D]



loughbd -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (5/12/2006 6:01:06 AM)

He's right. I have some old Johnson Ball bearing engines that were put away in 1966. Opened them up a couple years ago. Full of congealed oil but ZIP rust.



Matthew Allen -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (5/13/2006 9:39:49 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: RaceCity
Forget those tiny little bottles of "After run oil" sold in hobby shops for exorbitant prices. Marvel Mystery Oil, ATF, and a host of other
low-viscosity off the shelf oil products work very well (or better) and, a couple bucks will buy enough of those to last for several years.


I'm aware that these oils are vastly over-priced, and that a lot of what you read about them is probably hype, but don't some of them really have ingredients that 'neutralise' the corrosive effects of nitro?

Maybe I'm just being fooled by the advertising, but I thought the point was that these do more than just coat the inside of your engine - don't they actually reduce the effects of the leaving RC fuel in your engine?

Matthew



loughbd -> RE: Synthetic fuel? (5/13/2006 5:04:15 PM)

Prather's after run oil IS ATF. No there are no additives that neutralize whatever it is you think nitromethane does. The corrosion in our engines is mostly casued by water from the fuel. Alcohol is hygroscopic and draws water out of the atmosphere. Also the byproduct of burning alcohol is water. It and the byproducts of combustion cause the corrosion.
Marvel mystery oil is the cheapeast and best after run oil. Or marvel air tool oil.



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