RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Beginners >> RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins
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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 1:55:48 PM   
moneymaker



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You can email me the photo if you want, Jetsinmyblood@gmail.com

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 1:59:56 PM   
MountaineerFan36


 

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Thanks...I sent the pic.

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 2:15:47 PM   
RCKen



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MountaineerFan36,
While it is best to make sure the top of the spars and the top of the ribs are flush when you assemble them, it's no big deal if they aren't. Sand the spar flush with the top of the ribs and you'll be fine.

Hope this helps

Ken

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 2:16:16 PM   
2slow2matter


 

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As far as the spar goes--don't worry about it. one of three things has happened:
A) The spar is supposed to stick up a little, because when you add sheeting later on, it will all be flush
B) The slot in the rib for the spar was slightly smaller than the spar. It is fully seated, but isn't flush
C) The spar didn't quite get all the way into the slot, and isn't flush on the top.

In the case of B and C, just sand it of flush. You'd have to do some sanding on it anyway. This is where a long bar sander comes in handy! You might have to read further into the instructions to find out if the case is "A"

Dont worry about sanding it until the manual tells you. It will say to sand off all parts flush with each other. At that point, you will know!

If the case is "C", then when you can get to it, fill the gap between the spar and rib (where it didn't seat properly) with some thick CA. If you don't have thick, then fill it with medium, and hit it with some kicker. This will somewhat strengthen the joint.

BTW, if done properly, the CA glue will be much stronger than the balsa that it's joining, so don't worry about using CA--it works. Some people prefer not to use it. You make up your own mind!

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 2:43:52 PM   
Connery



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I totally agree with moneymaker about using wood glue. In building my Top Flite P-47, I have use mostly Elmers Tite-Bond glue and everything is rock solid. While it doesn't set as fast as CA, that can also be an advantage. For instance, when gluing ribs into position, you can apply the glue, put them into place, get them lined up and make sure everything is exactly right before the glue sets. When you use CA, you have to make sure everything is exactly right before you glue it, and then hope it doesn't move when you are applying it.

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 2:46:04 PM   
MountaineerFan36


 

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Thanks! Whew...I thought I had really screwed something up. I'll look through later steps in the instructions to see if scenerio A applies. I do seem to have a lot of balsa sheeting in the kit.

I need to refine my technique for appying the thin CA. This stuff seems to "pour" right out of the bottle with no pressure applied. I put a narrow tip on it to slow it down, but still seemed to get the stuff all over the place.

BTW guys......I'm having a blast building this plane!

Joe

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 3:29:28 PM   
bruce88123


 

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Servo tube- It just looks to me like MAYBE the tube extends past the servo too far. If it is according to plans, no worry. I'm just concerned about routing the wires later. thought it slould be slightly more toward the root. Check plan and instructions.

Spar height- Looking at drawing labled "cross-section at W-3" I think it shows the sheeting butting into the spars, not laying on top of them. It's hard to tell from the small picture. take a close look at that part of the drawing and make a determination BEFORE doing any sanding.

Always be careful before removing material, it is hard to put it back on

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 3:29:42 PM   
moneymaker



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Now there's anohter reason to use Elmer's yellow sticky nozzle

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 3:41:46 PM   
MountaineerFan36


 

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You're right the tube does extend past the servo just a bit. I cut the end off at the second W-1 rib per instructions...but did not trim the end nearest where the servo is. There was nothing specific in the instructions that I can recall as to where this end should be trimmed. I was thinking of trimming it off at the nearest rib past the servo mounting area towards the root.

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 4:19:17 PM   
bruce88123


 

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That sounds good. Make sure it is well anchored all of the way around the tube so as to prevent collapse at the entry/exit points. these can be firmed up with Ca as well.

As for using wood glue, I agree that it is good. I will often just barely tack a structure like a wing together with a minimum of thin CA and thin apply a fillet of TiteBond II to the joints. This has worked well for me on ribs and stringers and areas like that. You will develop your own methods as you go.

< Message edited by bruce88123 -- 6/15/2005 4:26:32 PM >


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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 6:48:02 PM   
kerrydel



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quote:

ORIGINAL: MountaineerFan36

I need to refine my technique for appying the thin CA. This stuff seems to "pour" right out of the bottle with no pressure applied. I put a narrow tip on it to slow it down, but still seemed to get the stuff all over the place.

Joe



I use medium CA for almost all of my plane builds. There are spots where thin and thick work better, but I think medium is the right choice for 90% or more of the gluing. I find that thin doesn't bond as well because it won't bridge ANY gap at all, and thick doesn't penetrate. Plus, as you've noticed, thin CA is REALLY thin! I sometimes use wood glue for sheeting, but sometimes use "sheeting" CA (which is slower setting than thick CA).

In one of the manuals for planes that I have built (Sig LT 40 maybe), they mention having a fillet of glue in the joint. You definitely won't achieve this with thin CA.

I also use a fan to blow the fumes away as it will burn my eyes at times if I don't

Kerry




< Message edited by kerrydel -- 6/15/2005 8:25:08 PM >


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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 7:27:22 PM   
kluivertfan2


 

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Thanks for this thread MF36. Im looking into building a kit soon, and have recieved numerous tips from your thread. Best of Luck to you.

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/15/2005 11:29:47 PM   
RCKen



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While you can use medium and thick CA to bridge gaps between parts, I feel that I should say this. It's best to have wood to wood contact. No amount of filling glue will replace the strength of having wood touching wood. Spend the time to try to get the 2 parts to fit tightly, it will be well worth the effort because the joint will be stronger. But yes, if you can't get that and there is a gap, you can use those to fill the gap.

Just putting my 02ยข worth in.

Ken

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/16/2005 1:16:20 AM   
MountaineerFan36


 

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I had to improvise a sanding block...so I cut off a piece of 2X4 and used thumb tacks to hold the sandpaper down. I'm sanding the trailing edge flush with the ribs. I got a little over agressive with the sandpaper and took a little balsa off the top of a few of the ribs. I don't think it will be much of an issue. I plan on using thick CA in the gaps on these ribs.



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< Message edited by MountaineerFan36 -- 6/16/2005 1:30:55 AM >

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RE: Four Star 60 Build...The Saga Begins - 6/16/2005 1:29:15 AM   
RCKen



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MountaineerFan36,
Be careful when you go to fill gaps with CA. CA is very hard a