I'm sorry to hear about your problem. To stop that from happening in the future always bolt the wing in place before adding the horizonal stab and check things over. Just checking the surface it goes on is not good enough . Ok, now for what to do. You more than likely used epoxy to bond the stab in place. I doubt that you could wet or steam the twist out of things, so some cutting may be in order. I know sounds like a real pain but it can be cut loose on the bottom of one side and pulled down to make things level. BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WAIT!!!!!!!!! Depending on just how far its off you can do this. The plane needs flying wires anyway, so things are not lost. Add flying wires and pull the high side down while wetting the fuse area with a spray bottle of water and let it set and dry. Release the wires and check. Redo if neccessary to get it pulled back in shape. If your not sure what to use for wires PM me for some detailed instructs. Watch that you don't pull a warp in the stab. Do just a little at a time and it should come out for you. Good Luck let us know how things come out.
< Message edited by Cyberwolf -- 2/28/2008 1:01:34 PM >
_____________________________
I've learned that you cannot compare yourself to others -they are more screwed up than you think.
Posts: 1208
Joined: 3/31/2004 From: Port Washington,
WI, USA Status: offline
I've been following this thread for some time as this will also be my next build. Would you mind posting the flying wire info here for all to see, please?
This is what I added to stop any flutter due to the larger engine choices that I used. Make sure you use a good ply or hard wood support in the stab and rudder. I also used nylock nuts on 2-56 scocket head cap screws so as to not over tighten and mash the wood. I made these from cable and soldered the ends with silver solder, They make flying wire kits also that uses barrel crimps, both ways work well.
I Then bent some brass and aluminum to fit, drilled a few holes to hook things up. The fuse needs to be reinforced a little where the bottom mount goes on. I just used some scrap 1/8 plywood on the inside, you can either blind nut it ot just use wood screws, considering it get's equal pull I have never had one come loose. For doing this to try to pull things back straight I would use the 8 wire method and not the 4 I have shown here ,its just a simple matter of adding another brace on the bottom and a longer piece of hardwood to the stab and rudder, and of course 4 more wires, Hopes this helps. If you take your time and use a meter you can get things perfect
_____________________________
I've learned that you cannot compare yourself to others -they are more screwed up than you think.
thanks cyberwolf, i'll see what i can do and report back. what i believe happened was building on my table surface everything was level, looked really good. BUT the rear part of the fuse resting on the table wasn't square to the front section of the fuse. when i started building this kit, the wood was slightly off and as i look down the fuse with a level it just gets worse. i was thinking of possibly adjusting the wing saddles?? but that would leave a gap in one side while i lower the other by sanding. i did shim it just to see and it looked a lot better but it was about 1/8 to 3/16 gap! when i have some more time i'll see if twisting it back might do it too. i tried initially doing that but it was quite stiff.
Where if its off that far i'm afraid that flying wires won't give you what you need . If your off 1/8-3/16 at the saddle, Thats a mile at the tip. Shim the wing and get it dead on the money with the tail then fill in the saddle to fit the wing with scrap balsa wood or lite ply, sand to shape and be sure to fill in where the bolts go thru so there no gap between the wing hold down plate and the wing. I think thats a easier way to fix it than to cut it all apart in the back end. Good Luck.
_____________________________
I've learned that you cannot compare yourself to others -they are more screwed up than you think.
Well, i managed to get my tail section straight now. i had originally used epoxy to fasten the stab and fin to the fuse so i thought i would try a heat gun to reactivate the glue and pull it apart. it worked fairly well and the only damage was to the front of the fin where i couldn't get the heat gun to. SO, i mounted the main wing, leveled it and then took my time to make sure everything was square and level. it's now glued back on and i'm just reattaching the thin ply over it. so far, so good! i'll post some pics of my progress when i get a minute.
Yes, i'm working on the rudder now! this is the 1st. generation kit but i modified the internals of the wing for hopefully many years of service. may have over built it but you can never be too sure. i used ply reinforcements on that entire area inside the wing.
the wheel pants are from a Hangar 9 Extra. they were easy to get for me up here in canada. already painted white but i may change that.?
hope you get to your build soon! i can't wait to see this one fly soon!
a simple question, but where would you guys put the N numbers on this Sukhoi? i have them from the kit, they are white so on the side won't work to well because the fuse side is white.?
i'm getting further into it now. mostly have the wing left!!
Nice to see the thread still going strong. Sorry guys I have to report that I have been enjoying an Extra 300 as of late but, I have the Sukhoi bug still and I now have a Goldberg SU 26 on Steroids
She's got an 83 inch wing a 32 inch stab and a 14 inch canopy LOL
I'll be bolting a DL 50 on the nose!
She's going to be a beauty
A few dedicated guys in a neighboring club blew the Goldberg 26 up 12 %. They did a beautiful job building the molds for the cowl, canopy and belly pan. I happened upon an airframe and parts from someone I consider to be a good friend. I can not help you out getting one of these one of a kinds but I do intend on making you all jealous [)] Forgive me
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Kit Building >> RE: Sukhoi SU-26 MX build 
RE: Sukhoi SU-26 MX build - 
