Posts: 102
Joined: 8/14/2005 From: O'Fallon,
MO, USA Status: offline
No I started from the back and have moved forward, I skipped glueing Former F the canopy one and I am between formers c and B2 in the glueing process. I have been moving slow checking for square after each section has dried. All looks good for now. I plan on gluing C and B2 Formers tonight and stopping. Tomorrow or next time I will glue A and the top and bottems then go to the gear braces and glue B then.
Looking ahead how to you plan on mounting the gear? I was looking and they just plan on using straight wood screws reenforced with CA. I thought I read some where that someone plated the entire section between B and B2 with PLY and TRIStock then used Blind nuts. I was going to go that route little weight for a boatload of stregenth. Thoughts???
Thanks for the quick reply...
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If your going to fly you may as well Go Ballistic!
One thing I like to do is build in a weak spot. I usually do this when I mount the landing gear dural, like so many others. I will probably utilize the given parts but include blind nuts on the ply plate. Into that I will use nylon bolts. Hard enough land and the dural will break free from the fuse instead of taking the fuse and all the hard work out. Just another idea!
I believe that area is a hair overbuilt to begin with, they could have made a small change in that design allowing for less pieces and more strength. I did epoxy triangle balsa stock to the front of bulkhead B. Once the plates are on, that area should be strong! Like the wing hold down block, I do see your concern. Definitely room for improvement but, without redesigning the entire kit, or adding gobs of weight, we have to remember a lot of these have been built and flown. With that said, 1/8 wood dowel will be epoxied through the fuse sides into the wing hold down block, the landing gear block and the engine firewall.
Posts: 102
Joined: 8/14/2005 From: O'Fallon,
MO, USA Status: offline
Well here are some shots of where I am at in the process as requested... I threw one in of the partially finished wing. I have inherited this model from a friend who decided he could no longer bear the smell of CA. I could not believe what I walked into... The feathers are constructed I just have final touches sanding, hinge slots and stuff to do. I have to sheet the other side of the wing cut out ailerons, wing tips the fuselage is the only thing I have to construct 100%. I guess you can see the shop and all in here. The last is of my current plane. Morris Hobbies Balsa Nova 40. Questions please feel free to ask.
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If your going to fly you may as well Go Ballistic!
Posts: 102
Joined: 8/14/2005 From: O'Fallon,
MO, USA Status: offline
What does the Wind Stop do?
Formers are in for the Gear Plate Drying. I am working on the Wing Mounting Block.
I was confuesed on how the gear formers supported the plate. I no longer think it needs more beefing. I would agree with you in that it is very well designed if not overly so.
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Posts: 83
Joined: 10/3/2002 From: Lakeside, CA, USA Status: offline
Steve. Get this..When I started to watch you and your build thrd. The Saito 1.50 I was buying from a guy at work at the time $175 new but mounted.. The deal was solid but he did not diliver the engine to me yet, I had no worries about it because he's a good guy. He comes to my office and apologizes for not delivering my engine yet and says to me. for another $25 bucks he'll through in his CG Sukhoi completly built and coverd and no fuel tank. It's the older plane whit the wheels in the wing. I plan on stripping the covering to look at everything. As for the landing gear the guys in RCGroups are flying the older one off of pavment with no problems. I may put the mounts in the fuse though.
I am just slightly ahead of you on the build, looks good. Nova looks good as well, should be a blast to fly. Th wind stop, good question. My best guess would be to help prevent wind from travelling down the fuse. Usually the wing hold down block is further down the saddle doing the same job. One thing you will want to watch out for that comes to mind, the ailerons have a re-enforced ply mount for the control horn. When you cut your ailerons out before you attach what is referred to as the hinge sheeting, make sure the plywood plate is in there and in the correct location. You will know if it is in the correct location if you do not cut through it when you remove the aileron. Ask me how I know
Mtnmnstr: Too cool, I would take the winter myself and mount the gear on the fuse! Should not be too hard to change at all. Great deal!
Posts: 102
Joined: 8/14/2005 From: O'Fallon,
MO, USA Status: offline
Thats what you do Bruening... Your like a airplane leach.... "Did you get a new plane? Let me fly let me fly!!!" Sheesh Maybe "I" can fly my plane out there next week... Anyway follow along on the build that way you know what I went through to let you fly.
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Posts: 574
Joined: 1/12/2002 From: Chelsea,
MI, USA Status: offline
Just came across this thread. I had a first edition Sukhoi and currently have a second edition about ready to cover. The LG in the wing was no big deal if you can land nicely - if you sortof bang it down when you land then the LG in the wing won't hold up unless you really beef it up - but then again, you build to fly - not add all kinds of beef in case of whatever. My first Sukhoi could take lots more abuse that my QQ Yak. From experience, build per the plans - use two elevator servos - use 4-40 elevator linkage - that is what got my first one - invest in some carbon fiber LG instead of the aluminum weight it comes with - and if you want, set it up for radical throws and it should 3D. The dimensions are about the same as my smaller QQ Yak, so I am putting in big throws on my second one and am powering it with a YS 120 AC with an 18x6n prop. Use expo - it is a really nice flying airplane.
Well, I just have to get this framed up here. I may have finally cleaned off the slate so I can concentrate on the build. I just finished most of the wing. A couple of things: You can see in this picture below that I installed the plywood for the aileron control horn too high on the aileron, it did not end up being a problem because I actually installed a larger piece later on. Just make sure you do not do the same. Another area; when you are joining the wing halves and you have the dihedral supports in place, the wing is definitely upside down! I questioned this over and over but rest assured, install the dihedral brace in the proper position, center high. With the supports in place my mind had a difficult time believing the already doubted instructions.
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RE: Sukhoi SU-26 MX build - 
