stallwart

Minnflyer, thanks for the info.

roltech

Right now with the radio that came with it there is a on off switch, the flaps on the servo and control horns are maxed out, to control the ballooning, you have to slow down before swithing on the flaps just like MinnFlyer's post . I think he said it all.

roltech

roltech

Miss America is very nice and fast We have a Jet pilot at our club that had one and between jet flights he would fly Miss Am. I don't remember how many flight he had (something like around a thousand) until he crashed it I don't think it was the plane's fault I think it was some setting in his computer radio, that took it down. You'll love this plane

roltech

roltech

Right on that's what I do if and when I use the flaps;

roltech

acesmike

Thanks for the info Roltech. Im heading to hobbytown for the H9 miss america! A wonderful X-mas gift from an awesome girlfriend. Isnt it great when women know what men want!?Its not always an airplane but she takes care of that too![sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Nightmair

Has anybody taken the flywheel off yet? Would taking the flywheel off allow you to fly a 3 blade 11x 6 prop instead of a 10?

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Normally if you wish to run a three blade prop, you reduce the diameter by 1" and increase the pitch of the prop by 1. In your case as asked, an 11 X 6 two blade would translate into a 10 X 7 three blade. Other than gaining some ground clearance there would be no gain in performance. The 11 X 6 two blade will be more efficient and the 10 X 7 three blade perhaps will produce less noise.

roltech

Lucky You! I don't have a girlfriend so I have to ask Santa. ( that's in my wallet see if I have enough?) and than yes-no??

roltech

acesmike

Haha 10-4 roltech!

justflie

I'm excited, i'm goign to be buying this plane today! (if all goes to plan...) I'll let you know how it goes! but boo this snow, no flying for a few months for me. stupid new england weather!

Nightmair

I think the stock 3 blade on the P51 is a 10" diam. but I don't know the pitch...I'm betting it's really low. I think by taking the flywheel off I can run a Master Airscrew 11x 6 3 blade prop no problem and it barely protrudes past the stock prop's profile. the MA prop also looks much lighter....the stock prop is a chunky beast!

Nightmair

Don't let snow stop you....Buy skis for your plane! I got a set of GeeBee ski/ float combo kit........I plan to take off of snow this year! Our club has already gone out first snow. Even a pair of floats work well as skis!

justflie

bought her yesterday and put her together last night. A beautiful plane! not too many problems building but i had to sand down the balsa inside the exhaust pipes that get mounted on either side of the fuselage. no big deal. I'd post some pics but hey, let's face it, they all look the same! unless you do an amazing weathering job like someone did and posted many pages ago. i can't wait for spring time to maiden this one. And i'm definetely going to be hunting for a good tailwheel, the one included on this plane is the worst i've ever seen, basically a rounded piece of foam. Sitting on the table, the foam compresses almost all the way back to the plastic rim! This would definitely not work well at my grass field so i'm going to have to go back the LHS. Otherwise, the plane was very very easy to put together. Getting the wrinkles (and there were a decent amount) out of the covering took about as much time as building the whole plane. Now let's see how she flies...

roltech

Good job! How were the front landing gear (wheel on axles) I had to replace them too., they were to sloppy and wobbled on take-off and landings, they might of replaced them already?? make sure all srews are tight ie. motor, motor muffler blue lock tight, motor mnts, wing servos, also carb body holding screw, should also if not done yet fuel proof motor mnt block. I don't know if the factory has done all this to date, but when I got mine in Sept. I had to do all the above, and sometime found out the hard way. lucky it never crashed, once only one motor mount screw was holding the motor, "out of four screws" lost one, the two other were just about off.
Did you install the software flight sim yet? if so is it working good? I could not install it, some driver problem go figure new computer
and all the frills and toys, but I did not bother since I have the G3 flight sim.

roltech

acesmike

Roltech,
I have the flight sim software and it is o.k. Its great to get an idea how to use your remote control but it doesnt compare to realflight. It crashes on my computer everytime I use it, but its still kinda cool how it comes with the kit.

roltech

Sounds somewhat the same problem I had with this software, I should of been USB. The Nexstar was good, even better than G3 RealFlight Sim. Enjoy.

roltech

ZeeWire

Hi, I just bought this P51 Trainer. I'm totally new to RC, so this will be my first experience in this arena. I started building the plane as per the supplied DVD and Manual instructions, and so far I noticed a couple things.

1- The first thing I did was to start charging the receiver and transmiter, but once I got to the Wing assembly section, I wondered how I was suppost to keep charging the receiver later on, if the cable will be inside the plane. I'm supposed to disasemble the wings to acces this cable every time?, should I create an incision somewere were I could acces it later on? I was also wondering how do other owners transport this plane to the field...sorry for this really basic questions , but this is my first RC model.

2- Once I tried to attached the wings to the body, I noticed that the two wooden pegs did not lined up with the two wholes, the only way I'll be able to do that is if I make one of the wholes a bit larger to compensate for this misplacement, if I do that, will this affect the plane in any way?

3- I was also wondering if anyone could explain what are the trims and what they seem to be so important? I did not see in the manual a decent explanation. Any tips or tricks will be greatly appreciated.

4- And finally , I checked the transmiter's manual but I did not see any section pertaining the frecuency. How I'm supposed to know what frecuency I'm using with this JR? and how can I change it if someone else is using the same?

I just applied for an AMA membership, and I'll be considering a club in NJ after this holidays so I can start learning the basics. For now, I'm hoping to finalize the build and practice on the simulator.

Thanks so much for any help you may provide.

ZeeWire

Ramones The

1- take off wing to charge and transport. The charge wire sticks out of the protective foam

2- as long as it is snug you'll be ok.

3- adjusts the position of the control surfaces, in order to make plane fly straight.

4- should be a sticker with the channel number on the transmitter

I recommend you fly with a trainer if this is your first plane.

Ramones The

P.S. You can install a remote charge switch, so you can check the batrtery state and charge without dismantling the plane.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

A further note on trims:

Once you're airborne, you may notice that the plane wants to roll slowly to one side or the other. If it rolls to the left, 1 or 2 clicks (Maybe more) of right trim should correct it, Or maybe the plane is flying down-hill, a few clicks of UP are needed.

But I will also say that no matter how good a trainer plane is, you WILL need an instructor. Going it alone is a really BAD idea.

Just think about how awful you will feel coming home on your first day with a badly smashed plane.

ZeeWire

I don't recall seeing any stickers, I'll have to check when I get home. So I guess there's no way to change the frecuency in case somebody else is using the same with this transmiter?

The remote charge switch seems like a great idea, any brand/model part suggestion/installation tips?

I was also thinkin in customizing the look a bit, can the stickers be removed withouth damage to the film?, and can this film material be painted?

Thanks Again to all for the prompt feedback!!

ZeeWire

wingride47

My Feedback: (2)

Zee Wire go back to the beginning of this tread and read it all. This plane has some issues you need to check and correct before attempting to fly. Some have a few items wrong and some have a lot wrong hope you got a good one. For sure pull the wing servo hatches and run a bead of epoxy around the blocks holding servo to the hatch this is a weak point also check that the wheel collars are tightened and equal spaced. check the motor mount screws as some have reported that theirs were loose or falling out when you check that go ahead and mix up some epoxy and denatured alcohol in to a thin liquid and brush on the fire wall to fuel proof it as the fuel will get into the wall and make it soft. I don't know why they didn't fuel proof the engine compartment they should have. Check that the tail surfaces don't move after tightening down the horizontal stabilizer on mine moved for and aft so ended up having to epoxy it down permanent. There were other problems experienced by others so check all post in this thread I have one on page 14 see it and all post by olstoney.

san26141

There is a little rectangular plug on the back of your transmitter. This plug should have a number on it. This is your channel. Anyone correct me if I am wrong but you should not change your transmit crystal. The transmitter is optimized at this frequency and should not be messed with. If someone is using the same chan at your field, just clip on to their channel clip and they *should* let you know when they are done. Getting in contact with a trainer at your local field will be the best thing possible. They will help you with everything from checking your plane to field *etiquette*.

Definitely get someone to help you fly using a buddy box. I got this plane a few months ago and I have had a blast. First 10-15 flights were on a buddy box and now i'm at about 25.

Before you go up be sure to read this entire post and read all the tips/tricks/necessities for this plane. I had to re-tighten/re-glue/re-shrink a few things.....just a fact of life with ARFs.

But especially........Have fun!!!!!!

stallwart

I regularly change the transmitter crystal from ch 45 to ch 46 on 2 of my JR transmitters depending upon plane and desired frequency with no noticable difference.
Lots of guys seem to have ch 45 in our club, so I sometimes have changed both trans. and receiver crystals at the field.

justflie

hey guys, i'm assuming the firewall isn't fuelproofed although i haven't bothered taking off the cowl to check. since i won't be flying for a few months yet, no real hurry. my local LHS owner mentioned a lot of ARFs are coming without fuelproofed firewalls which is a lil surprising (and annoying because now i have to do it!) As for the main wheels, they were a little loose but i moved the collars right up against it and tightened them and there was a marked improvement. obviously, rolling the plane around in my basement isn't giving me too accurate ideas of groundhandling but i just can't bring myself to start the engine and get this beauty dirty just yet! Other than that, i will of course check the aileron servo mounts and all the screws here an there. One interesting note, included as an "addendum" on a separate sheet of paper were two locknuts for the screws that attach the tail feathers to teh fuselage. Apparently they included these new locknuts to replace the ones included in the kit due to them vibrating off in flight. Interesting, but it is encouraging that they are addressing problems as they surface. maybe i'll get luck and they've also addressed some of the other problems. While i had the allen wrench out, i also checked teh cylinder head screws and muffler screws and everything was still nice and tight. I didn't check the carb mount screws but i'll do that a little later. Otherwise, the plane looks to be in remarkably good shape considering what little effort i needed to put into building it. I'll be addresssing these other small matters over my Christmas break from college and hopefully have my plane ready to go when i get back to school, even though it's going to sit in my room for a couple of months. One other question, how is the ground handling on this plane? I remember reading earlier that it was not good and a new tail wheel only helped a little bit. to be honest, i'm not surprised, as the deflection of the tail wheel is pretty minimal when rudder is applied. Also, did you guys (esp those not terribly experience yet, mayber just off their trainer) fly with the flaps down at first or just land wiht them or what? i had an extra servo on hand so i threw it in right away. I'm thinking the first flight (after a more experience guy flies it first) should be speed brakes off, droops on, flywheel/orignal prop, and flaps down. I guess if i decide in flight that there is not enough speed for my liking and the control characteristics are good i can just put up the flaps and fly like that. Oh, one other intersting point, i was fiddiling around in the flight simulator (surprised by the serial connection!) and if you go into the advanced setting for this plane, they have it flying on a .60 engine. does anyone else find that odd? i put it back down to a .41 size and boy did it slow down and have trouble staying aloft! someone else check that out and please tell me if i'm losing my mind. Anyways, off to bed. happy landings.