RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?**

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?**
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?**

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RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 3:40:31 PM

bookboy22

Posts: 117
Joined: 3/21/2005
From: Woodbridge, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Hi tr21triton,

I have never built a kit or installed a servo. I believe the manual shows the steps involved, but can you explain what connection on the receiver you plugged the extra flap servo into,and how do you control the flaps on on the radio?

Thanks

_____________________________

A discovery is said to be an accident meeting a prepared mind

(in reply to tr21triton)

Post #: 176

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 3:52:59 PM

rocknrube

Posts: 47
Joined: 8/24/2005
From: Toronto, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Thats funny...I just finished installing my flap servo now! It works great! Basically, you just gotta cut the Ultra-cote near the root or fuselage. You can feel it if you run your finger or near the center of the two wing halves. Cut open the material and drill a coupla holes with the servo in place, put four brass eyelets in each hole and screw in four screws. Attach the push rod after bending it into a Z-bend so that it lines up nicely with the servo arm. Bring the servo wire up through the hole where the ailerons come through and stick it in the receiver (Gear Slot) inside the fuselage. When you wish to use the flaps simply flick the right top hand switch to lower your flaps and flick switch the other way to raise the flaps!

(in reply to bookboy22)

Post #: 177

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 4:03:04 PM

olstoney

Posts: 1193
Joined: 4/6/2004
From: Cape Coral, FL, USA
Status: offline

That's why I switched out the JR receiver for one of my Hitec's to be able to use my Hitec transmitter. My flap control is now totally proportional from 0-22 degrees or anywhere in between and have both high and low rates programmed into the radio. I also expoxied everything together on the tail feathers and the belly scoop to the wing. Now as soon as the new prop drive assembly arrives the front can be reassembled and the plane will be ready for final balancing. I'll be in the air the day afterwards weather permitting. In the meantime I'll put a few runs on the engine over the weekend and get everything there adjusted.. Pretty soon we will see what this puppy can do

.

_____________________________

If One Lays Down With Dogs-They Should Not Complain About The Fleas

(in reply to rocknrube)

Post #: 178

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 5:32:24 PM

SeattleFlyer

Posts: 51
Joined: 9/9/2005
From: Seattle, WA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Steve Campbell

SeattleFlyer,

UltraCote needs 350 degrees or more to shrink fully. You won't get that from any personal hair dryer. One such WILL shrink the material somewhat, but it will bubble/sag again when it gets out in the sun. You need high heat to keep it down.

OTOH, jlank is correct in that commercial heat guns are TOO hot; as in melting the material or even scorching the underlying balsa. Your best bet is to buy a tool designed for the job. If you simply won't do that, for whatever reason, use a household iron on high setting, and place a thin cloth over the material before ironing.

Thanks for the additional info. I think I'll follow your advice and order a hobby-specific heat gun. Better safe than sorry.

This morning I started assembling my airplane. I removed the muffler and engine cowel and thread-locked the engine mount nuts. I went ahead and removed the baffle from the muffler and thread-locked the long muffler screw and nut that holds the two halves of the muffler together. I then put the cowel back on and thread locked the muffler screws when re-installing the muffler to the engine. I installed the prop and spinner and the little pipe detailing. I then installed the rear fin and thread-locked those nuts as well. I then tightened the control horn screws a bit in the rear as they were a little loose and adjusted the clevises so that the rear control surfaces are level with the radio on with the trim set in the center. The radio so far appears to be working perfectly. All I really have left now is to assemble the wing halves, install the landing gear, check that the servo screws are tight, and install the wing which I'll do tomorrow morning. So far everything is coming together great!

(in reply to Steve Campbell)

Post #: 179

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 6:34:45 PM

olstoney

Posts: 1193
Joined: 4/6/2004
From: Cape Coral, FL, USA
Status: offline

Sounds like you are approaching this in the right way, good job

. It might behoove you due to the care that you are taking with the assembly of your model to do the following. Back out any of the wood screws that are installed. Put two or three drops of thin CA into the screw holes, no more. When the CA has dried then reinstall the wood screws you will find that they are somewhat tighter upon reinstallation. Make sure that the CA has dried or you may permanently install the screws. Several of the wood screws on my model were stripped (Where is the QC here?). Fortunately I know how to fix such things and I am thouroghly convinced that this model was built at 4:30PM on Friday when the quitting whistle blew.

There were just too many problems with this particular model that I had to fix. The good part was I knew how, but I should not have had to do all of this. Maybe I should have complained more and taken photographs of all this crap. I just feel sorry for some newbie that does not have these skills. If he or she gets one like I did, you had better get on the phone to Horizon immediately. I am still waiting for my dealer to get me a new cowl as this one was cracked out of the box. The cowl mounting screws were drilled improperly and only caught part of the firewall joint and chipped the rest out. I almost had to talk the Horizon customer service rep into replacing my plastic droops at N/C. I had to remove those in order to get the wrinkles out of the covering. I had a hell of a problem getting the tape residue off both the wing and droops and ruined one of the droops doing so. The Horizon rep did not know what kind of tape was used to affix the droops, so SOLD me a roll of Dubro hinge tape that quote "ought to work".

That being said, if this plane looses a droop and causes an unexpected roll and winds up being planted into the ground I'll have the documention and sales receipt to show what I was told to use. I could kinda go on and on here, but in all fairness to those of you who received good models I won't

. I'll post a pic later on of the Mustang when it is finished sitting next to the cowl of my Edge. That maybe should tell somebody something.

_____________________________

If One Lays Down With Dogs-They Should Not Complain About The Fleas

(in reply to SeattleFlyer)

Post #: 180

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 6:54:33 PM

Casedit

Posts: 94
Joined: 8/22/2003
From: Colts Neck, NJ, USA
Status: offline

olstoney,

you're scaring me

!!

i've yet to maiden, i've been messing around having fun weathering it - looks like I need to rip it apart and take a look at the quality of the build

Better now than never having the chance

Casedit

(in reply to olstoney)

Post #: 181

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 7:13:02 PM

SeattleFlyer

Posts: 51
Joined: 9/9/2005
From: Seattle, WA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: olstoney

Sounds like you are approaching this in the right way, good job . It might behoove you due to the care that you are taking with the assembly of your model to do the following. Back out any of the wood screws that are installed. Put two or three drops of thin CA into the screw holes, no more. When the CA has dried then reinstall the wood screws you will find that they are somewhat tighter upon reinstallation. Make sure that the CA has dried or you may permanently install the screws. Several of the wood screws on my model were stripped (Where is the QC here?). Fortunately I know how to fix such things and I am thouroghly convinced that this model was built at 4:30PM on Friday when the quitting whistle blew.

Thanks for the CA tip. I'll add that to my list of "additional things to do before flying that are not found in the manual".

I agree with you that I think if a newby just followed the instructions and flew the plane as is, bad things are bound to happen due to the lack of tightness or thread-locking on screws and nuts and so on. However, I think people with any sort of prior R/C knowledge know better, and whoever the instructor is for the newby ought to no better as well. But it would have been nice if Hangar-9 had either done these things during assembly, or at least included them in the instructions. I'd rather know what to do to do it right instead of just the bare minimum to get the plane in the air. So far though everything in my plane seems to be lining up correctly and so on and nothing came damaged. Sorry to hear you haven't had the same experience.

I also had no trouble getting the radio hooked up my computer and working with the simulation software - I just plugged it in to the COM port and fired up the software and it worked like a champ.

(in reply to olstoney)

Post #: 182

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 7:17:13 PM

olstoney

Posts: 1193
Joined: 4/6/2004
From: Cape Coral, FL, USA
Status: offline

The actual build itself looks fairly straight forward. I have not found anything loose in the structure yet. Just stuff like badly wrinked covering and that is to be somewhat expected, but not to this degree. Firewall was not fuel proofed, I had to Dremel out the belly pan as the heads of the nylon screws would not pass through. The servo case screws and servo screws themselves were rusted. All kinds of dirt and wood chips inside of the canopy that I removed with Windex on a paper towl and a pair of long forceps and the other aforementioned difficulties. I decided to just go ahead and fix this stuff as I hate when someone has my money already and then I have to wait longer and then return something at my expense. Everything has been repaired I am just waiting for the parts to arrive from Horizon and the replacement cowl from the dealer. We'll see how long that takes before I get to fly this puppy. I just feel bad for the newbie that does not have alternatives like I do. I purchased this plane to actually fill a gap for awhile, see how appropriate it really is for training and then to donate the plane to my club if found in our opinions to be suitable. I made some modifications to suit the purposes such as changing the receiver and making the flaps proportional. Most students here show up with Futaba or Hitec radios as they have been more affordable. Please do not misunderstand me here as JR makes fine equipment and I do own some. With a simple receiver crystal change this plane can fly on any Futaba or Hitec radio transmitter. This was the point as in 10 minutes different folks can fly this on different channels. I'll know more in as soon as the needed parts arrive and this can be flight tested.

_____________________________

If One Lays Down With Dogs-They Should Not Complain About The Fleas

(in reply to Casedit)

Post #: 183

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 7:17:37 PM

SeattleFlyer

Posts: 51
Joined: 9/9/2005
From: Seattle, WA, USA
Status: offline

..and being a newby to R/C planes, I'm going to take my plane to the local R/C club meeting at the end of the month and have them look over everything before it is ever taken out to the field in the first place. I figure that maybe they'll catch something I over-looked or just doesn't seem quite right. I've already gotten a lot of tips from this forum so again, thanks to everyone.

(in reply to SeattleFlyer)

Post #: 184

RE: New Hanger 9 p-51 mustang **Trainer?!?** - 9/15/2005 7:23:57 PM

Steve Campbell

Posts: 4195
Joined: 12/8/2001
From: Zachary, LA, USA
Status: offline

SeattleFlyer,

You will be MUCH better served by an iron as opposed to a heat gun. The iron allows you to precisely control the amount of heat applied and, more importantly, WHERE it is applied. Most of the "tightening" chores needed on a film-covered structure are the result of hurried/sloppy lay-down during initial covering, and/or not enough heat used when the initial shrink is done.

What you will find as you use your new model is that seams and edges will work loose. A heat gun is worse than useless for this chore. You need to be able to apply heat in a very narrow area for this particular sort of task. Using a heat gun for it would be like going after an individual wasp with a shotgun.

If you become interested in building a kit, you'll need the iron to cover it. I have a heat gun, and haven't used it in years on a model. I DO use it to soften the 3M spray glue on the strips of sandpaper on my aluminum sanding blocks when its time to change them out. I also have three different irons, each for a different task. I use them a lot.

Get an iron...

(in reply to SeattleFlyer)