rt3232

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Are you going to model you build after the plastic?? If so I would check with D Bonk, Luke or Corsairjock, but I think the red strip arround the stars and bars is wrong my two ref books don't show any service croups with that. Next ypu glas work looks good to me, but I am a real duffas when comes to glassing, so I chuse not to judge as I don't feel qualified enough. but I do like what I see.



Bob T

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

The plastic model is done after the modern version of it, short of the pilots name on the side. The original Dream plane was a birdcage canopy version and was completely different than this one, as Dion and others have so adequately pointed out in their threads. The red surrounding the markings was not used on the original, but is on the modern, restored plane which looks just like the scheme on this one. It is the one I'm using. You can find more about it at www.marinesdream.com

I'm not going to do a bunch more stuff to it than what I mentioned above, or has been done already, seeing it kind of fruitless to re-engineer a sport-scale model to a great extent to make up for inaccuracies. I knew about it's inaccuracies going in. Some liberties have to be taken with the panel lines on the wings due to it's deviation from scale as well. I've not had any illusions about competing with it, just want it to look adequate and fly nicely. I'll save better scale efforts for better scale planes than this one. It should be sharp when it's finished so I'm not too concerned with the re-engineering parts, i.e. drop down on the fuse underneath the cowl flaps, wing incidence, etc.. I saw the plane done nicely in the box scheme with stock TF equipment on it for cockpit, radial, etc. It was flying with a G62 and I went out and found one later that week as I was really impressed with the way it flew and looked for an everyday flier at the field.

Not looking forward to sanding that glass work. I'm glad it's in decent shape so far. I was a little concerned with how the cloth would smooth out over the gull section, but it really did nicely. The builder did a good job on the sheeting of the gull section. The glue joints are nice and tight and the wood is formed very well. The wood is all pretty stiff in there, so I'm glad for this fit. I also noticed that the stock fuse sheeting was replaced by the builder with softer Sig balsa which I was really happy about. Looks like someone else got clued in to the overstiff balsa sheeting included with the kit. I do have a bunch of extra sheeting left over now for Ziroli Stuka wing ribs!!

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Well hear are some more pic of the gear door system

Frist one is with a torshin type spring, did not like it with the right wire fir the spring I had loose hinge pin.

Secound the hook up

Third is the spring I finaly settlrd on made from .042 wire 11/2 turns with 2 inch arms

Forth is location and ow it works

I will have some more naxt week

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Wow! Looks great, clean and simple. Nice job![sm=thumbup.gif]

Dion

rt3232

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One think I for got to mention is the bow is spring loaded into the pivit holes, with enough shaft to go thru 1/4 ply and thru the rib.


Dion Thanks for the thumbs up.

I am working on the right side and on the strut cover the hinge I have figured out but I am thying to come up with a simple strut atach piont[>:]


Bob T

D Bronk

BOB your supposed to be flying ,is it just as windy there ,as it is here???

rt3232

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[&o]YES

Bob T

rt3232

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Ok guys
Dave Bonk gave me an exelent idea for the strut door, and I am going to test it.. but I think there might be another way to do this, and be a little sturder, for the bigger builds

With all the viewers some of you have got to have some good ideas

Any help is appericated

Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Dion

I was reviewing your thread ( Royal corsair 60 ) for some info on the way you did your strut door system, could not find any mention, but the pic shure show them working, so if you have a chance could you give me a discription of how you did them. I allways like to look at a coupla of ways to do some thing when I have never tackeled it..

Thanks Bob T

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hi There RT3232
I like your hatch for your airlines valve, do you have your on/off switch & kill mounted in there also? or are you planning a different hatch for them?
NICE JOB on those doors.
George

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

what a messy job, even the dog thinks so....

calibosss

I have my giant f4u nearly assembled, last thing is to build the flaps. the instructions say to use a 1/2 by 5/16 by 9 inch stick for leading edge of outboard flap. seems like this is wrong and should be 1/2 by 3/4 stick. anyone know whats up? did i miss somthing along the way? I got this kit when it came out and left it in the box for a cpl years. Did I miss an amendment to the instructions? pls help

rt3232

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Hi Caliboss

Asuming you are building a T/F G/C IThat will build ok but you have to be carful when beveling, as you can end up short

Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Wulf190

Looks good, hope it was dry all tough a little fiber on the surface might make it stronger[>:]

Bob T

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Just about finished the fuselage glassing today. I should be able to get the rest of the plane glassed tomorrow. I tested out water based poly and microballoons on the bottom of the stab and thought it did a nice job of filling the cloth. My big complaint about the wbp was that it was too thin, but a healthy dose of microballoons seems to take that away. I'm anxious to sand it, as that's the big plus with the WBP, easier to sand I think.

I've got no worries about the strength of the airframe. It's well built and the glue joints are great. Yes, the cloth was dry when the dog was sniffing about! No need to put a little dog hair in the finish at all. I have a hard time getting motivated to glass a plane this big. It's a stage I just sort of work through a step at a time to get to the next stage where things seem a bit more rewarding with all the details being added next, sliding canopy and doors, hatches, etc..

I'll start to work on the canopy rails after I'm done smoothing it out initially.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi wulf190

This glassing thing is new to me as you know from this thread, I am still going the easy way out except fot critical joints etc, may be next time, but from what I can see from the pic's your work sure looks good. I am still haveing problems with the strut covers and a ,simple way to get the strut attach point to slide all most 3/8 when opening and closing, what are you going to do in this area? do you have any pic's as yet I will post as I go..

Bob T

Darrell B.

Bob,

Would something like this work for these gear also.

http://www.top-flite.com/techsupport/topa0400tech.html

I did this on my P-51 ARF and they turned out great. Here is a picture.

Good Luck,
Darrell

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

I'm going to hinge the front strut door to the wing surface and attach it to the strut with a setup that will slide up and down on the non-rotating part when the strut goes up and down. Others have used a wooden piece glued to the strut side of the door that is shaped like a strut fairing mount and used thicker elastic thread, or a plastic zip tie to hold it to the door, but that will still allow it to slide. If you prefer, you can use a hard link, like ball links to connect the door to a piece that will slide up and down on the strut, perhaps a piece of brass that is bent to a yolk shape to go around the strut that has holes on the side that can be used to mount the short ball link connections. I'll be doing this soon and will put some pics up of the process.

I have to say again how much using a thin shot of 3M Super77 on the surface before the cloth goes down helps the process. I now spend more time getting the cloth set into position and getting all the wrinkles out BEFORE appying the epoxy and the result has been a much smoother finish, especially on the round surface. It also keeps the weave on the cloth tight while the stuff is spread out, and, it allows you to put the epoxy on anywhere on the surface that needs it to spread it out, as opposed to having to keep spreading from one location or from center out to avoid wrinkles, etc. Always the seams are the biggest issue where all the edges have to be smoothed in. I usually will do this during the next stage where all the smoothing in is done with primer and Evercoat where needed in spots like these.

calibosss

rt3232
please review my post again. i am building the top flite giant corsair. the stock they list for the leading edge of the outboard flap does not fill the leading edge. seems to be half of what is needed before beveling. calls for a 1/2 x5/16 piece. seems to need 1/2x 3/4.

GrCab

Bob

This is what I've been working on. It works very well so far. I have some refining still to do, like replacing the temp. plastic tube on back of door with something more permanent and maybe removing the brass couplers and replacing them with all thread rod bent to a U shape. (Sorry about the quality of pics.)

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

GRCab, thanks for posting the pics. That's almost exactly what I was trying to describe in the post above. Pics are worth a thousand words.[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

rt3232

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Hi CrCab

Now that looks like what I had in mind, I no its a lot of work but how about laying the parts out next o a scale for a pic, and how heavy is the bras mtl around the strut, can't do much this week as hrs at work have me sleeping when I should be building, so I am down loading your pic's for referance. Did you do any of the the outher easy mods ie: rudder/ wing tips? I am not to proud to beg, so how about more pic's of your build.

Bob T

GrCab

I'll try to get some measurements and better pics of the door and hardware. I'm not sure about the weight of the brass. It is approx. 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" to 2" long. I'm not sure but I think it is about .025 thick.

I didn't change the outline of the rudder, but I did add some 1/32" ply on each side, for extra strength, just in case it's ever on it's back.

Thanks Dion, for the ideas on the wheel door operation.

fyredog

Can I just say how lucky you big scale guys are to have " inner " rotating retracts than us 1/8 scalers. But maybe Dion can shed light on how he attatched his gear door to his strut which rotates???????? Man the gear doors look great dude! Now post a video of the operation like dion did! Keep the pix coming!

regards

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Good morining