no bells and whistles, but a very good radio that I still use to power 4 of my planes, including my flatout RCU Bipe. You can purchase it in a package that contains 3 micro servos and a receiver and you are all set for around $100. That my friend is the lowest price you will be looking at for something that works
Another option I have seen is say you may want to try out a co-axial helicopter like the E Flite Blade CX2. Most of these new helicopters come with everything you need to fly including a 2.4 ghz spectrum radio and one of spektum's AR6100 receivers. I looked at this the other day, because if I bought one, I would bind it to my DX7 radio and have this perfectly good E Flite radio sitting around that could be used for another plane. You would still have to buy servos and another receiver if you did not want to keep switching from plane to heli since that radio does not have a/c memory.
That is kind of out there from what you are asking, but for now I would say you are OK with the Futaba 4YF.
so the spectrum6 mirco will be fine with the 7.5g servo's?,i well be mostly flyin outside,theres a club that flyies once a week here at the local gym,plannin too take my blade CP tonight actully...or should i put the 7.5's too the side and find some lighter servos.the lightest i can find is 6g and i don think 3gram's total well effect it that much?,im a total noob too this light stuff so forgive me .-_-. sorry you kinda lost me with your reply..lol
ohh and another thing!!!, has anybody done any mods to the wing too give it alittle reinforcement,...like say a 1 carbon rod runnin wing tip too wing tip,in the center of the wing?,just thinking that might help,,im going too give it one attempt with the hinges,after boiling them,if all fails im going with flap tape
I fly mine outside with 7.5s and I have carried a camera, and often a 3 cell 2100 lipo. this plane can carry cargo if it is flown right. You would never do that for the Gym-Gram-Guys and they would cringe at the mention of it which is why i have to mention that I fly mine outdoors. If you have three 6 gram servos and you are worried about the weight 4 paperclips would have on the performance of the aircraft, by all means use the 6 gram ones.
You asked about wing mods, if you scroll back to a previous post of mine I talked about ones I do for these planes that would be recommended if you were going to fly outside where "ginger landings" on grass are rare and these are not meant to take aircraft carrier landings, which is why I placed some foam squares under the wing where the landing gear go through the wing on my RCU Bipe
where the carbon rod stops, I place a plastic zip-tie with the connector cut off and glue it along the exposed leading and side edge. if you are not sloppy you can use (yes, I am going to say it) hot glue. you don't need a huge zip tie and they sell thin ones at places like home depot or other stores. I included a shot with a leading edge view to show what I am talking about. This plane is almost two years old an has been beat up more times outside and is still a blast to fly. In the picture I noticed some aileron bends, and I plan on building another one of the winter, but will keep flying this one till the big one takes it away. with the wing mods and foam under the wing for the landing gear I have never had a wing crack, torn, or gear slash through the flight surface.
the zip tie edges are also a good idea to run along high stress areas of the body of the aircraft top and bottom edges. if you are flying outside, you will always have wind, and if you put a good deal of stress on them into a wind, you will hear a crack or see an elevator half pop off (good news is the plane flies fine with one until you get it back down). those were events that happened prior to the mods, and my first plane did not last the season ( I was doing silly things with it).
Again, these are things you would want to do to fly outside. This thing does not weigh a ton either so go big with those extra 1.5 gram servos, it will help in the wind
thanks again wedgewing yeah i was thinking that the little weight diff would not matter,sounds good....,yes i did read the earlier post for the mods,and i am intending on doing them, i am really considering building the whole plane with the hot glue,or 5min epoxy,not sure yet!!! i cant wait too get it and start my project...
im sure ill be doing silly things with mine too,hahah but for 25 dallors,it will be fun im sure...
I risk getting smacked around by saying this, but I did indeed build the entire plane with hot glue........Shhhhhhhh.
Again, my caveat being I don't live buy a gym or indoor flying area that I know of, and I just like to see that the wind streamer in the yard is gently flopping and run outside and get a quick 10 minute flight with the 3 cell 910 mAh which is out of spec and considered heavy or goodness, even more time with a 3 cell 2100 (insanely out of spec) and flies. no doubt, with these the lighter the better (olive branch), but I like to fly outside, and for longer than a couple minutes.
If you go hot glue, the best thing you can do is go easy on the glue, find a decent gun than is better than the one they would sell at Wal-Mart and one that has a finer bead and low temp glue. when you do the carbon rods, only glue a little section at a time so you don't go nuts on the stuff. also your plane will fly with some cobb webs left over by some glue. I had to trim one out of the picture. I totally owe the longevity of my current plane to some necessary reinforcement and some well applied hot glue.
I watch the RC Universe review film of the RCU Bipe flight in the wind the author did and mine can do the same things so I know it is not a lead sled.
Maybe someday I will use the CA for one of these, but when I originally did it, my technique was not as elegant and the lack of any remaining finger prints on my skin from CA melt would have made me a good witness protection candidate
nice,hahah sounds good,i just got stock battery and the rimfire combo coming,hopefully this week!!!!,yeah im going with the hot\warm glue idea i think,but im kinda leaning towards the 5 or 10min epoxy cause you have time for moving\fittin perfect where as hot glue dries pretty quick
what i meant by the wing re-inforcement with the a extra carbon rod,running tip too tip of the wing,dead in the center of it,giveing it extra strenth in regards too the flexing!!!,the zip ties are good for the dings of hittin the ground and what not...but im refering too the totol wing flex.
< Message edited by eastcoast -- 1/14/2008 11:07:22 PM >
I get you. I had more issues with body twist, which is why i had a couple really long zip ties run the length on top and bottom and you will notice after you glue them that the mere width of the tie prevents twist even on the wing, on top of protecting against dings
you will have a carbon rod on the leading edge and on the trailing edge (your clips will use as a hinge point for control surfaces). there is about 5 inches between that and what you are going to deal with is some twisting from forces wanting to make the wing look like a helicopter blade.
Maybe you should look at the RCU Bipe, because you are building a box of carbon because you have all of this on top and bottom and when you add in 8 carbon support struts this thing is solid, and very fun to fly. I am the last guy to shy you away from additional carbon reinforcement based on how mine are built. Never thought of it based on how strong the Bipe is with 4 carbon edges.
When this one finally buys the farm, I will get another one and post pictures of the RCU TriPlane
I just checked back to see your shock flyer, and that sim is good. the only reason I think it is a sim is because there is only one shadow below the plane. Nice performance
thank you,yeah that sim is great for the price,i bought that about 1month prior too getting my HZ SuperCub,its helped me alot,cause when flyin towards yourself,i think is the hardest too get used too,but with the sim ,its a brezz now,i probally wount get too finish my CAP anytime soon,cause i go back too work Sunday for 3 weeks,in the canadian Artic so i hoping too get it this week so i can aleast look at it lol,so mid feb,ill be able too really get into the build,im getin excited Just talkin about it lmao
well i go too the hobby store for parts for my Revo today,and while looking around,ic a flatout redbull kit,for 14 bucks. so ofcouse i buy that up,im waitin on my cap in the mail from tower,started 3 pm today everything is going good,boiled the plactic parts,and no broken things yet
Posts: 1806
Joined: 7/31/2004 From: evington,
VA, USA Status: offline
I got the RCU bipe for some backyard practice. first foamy ive done. I enjoyed putting it together as it was so much different than the typical ARF in wich im bored of putting together repeditively.took me about 8 hours but i didnt rush anything . I have not had a chance to fly it yet due to 15-50 mph winds today but I will soon
Posts: 14
Joined: 12/9/2003 From: Big Rapids,
MI, USA Status: offline
All I bought a Great Planes Reflection; after looking at instructions and kit pieces realized how much time was involved to build; no way was I going to invest that much time for a plane that probably wouldn’t survive long. What to do: buy 2 sheets (12x36) of 9mm White EPP, 1 sheet (12x36) of Black EPP, 6 1/8” carbon fiber tubes and some hot glue plus gun. Use the Reflection kit parts as a template. Construction time less than building original kit, hot glue is fast on EPP. Also has hot glue hinges. Plane flies great with Hacker A20-26M Prolite 3S1P-910. Plane in PIC with red dots is Reflection, the rest are copies of wood 3D planes in EPP. Couldn’t count the number of times I’ve hit the ground or gym floor without damage, if damage happens just carry a BIC lighter and hot glue stick.
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RE: GREAT PLANES FLATOUTS - 
RE: GREAT PLANES FLATOUTS - 
