RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly  
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> E-Flite Helicopters >> RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly
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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/5/2005 1:33 AM   
Nubie_1


 

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Status: offline 		If the Helli is on the ground the main turns clock wise and the tail turns counter clock wise if you look from the same side the tail blades are on opposite of the tail motor. Unless this is a trick question and as i have already stated I'm new to this not so new to the point i belong to a RC club and the AMA to help me learn.

Chris

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/5/2005 4:38 PM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Correct.

Main rotor rotates Clockwise.
Tail rotor rotates Counterclockwise.

Can anyone tell me why it's important for the tail rotor to rotate counterclockwise?


Also, I wouldnt say the frame is weak at the tail boom joint. Ive smacked mine in quite a few times, and never had a problem with that area. My guess is your experience might have just been "the wrong hit at the wrong place" kind of thing.

< Message edited by bdavison -- 7/5/2005 4:43 PM >

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/5/2005 8:29 PM   
Nubie_1


 

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Status: offline 		Umm Im out of my league here probably but I'm guessing it has to do with the main rotor wash coming off the Helli if it turned clockwise it would be fighting the flow of air instead of just using the air to help control the Helli but that would be a guess and my best guess at that.

Chris

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/5/2005 10:56 PM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Well, here is why they rotate counterclockwise on the Blade.

Tailrotors should always rotate in the opposite direction of the main rotor head. The reason for this is that tail motors generate torque just like a main rotor head does.

If you have both the main rotor head and tail rotor spinning in the same direction, the torque generated by the tail rotor will cause the helicopter to roll.

So, we make them "counter-rotate". This counter-rotation prevents the heli from rolling over.

In some real helis, like big helis with LARGE rotors, the torque produced by the main rotor head is so high, that the tail rotor is actually "canted" to one side to counter act the heavy torque.





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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/5/2005 11:25 PM   
liteglow


 

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Status: offline 		I wonder how much pressure there is on the tail on a real big heli !
Like how much power the tail is pressing..

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/6/2005 12:36 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		The UH-60 Blackhawk like in the movie "Blackhawk Down" has about 50,000 ft. lbs. of torque if I remember correctly. So the tail rotor has to be able to produce enough thrust to counteract that torque.


The torque is SO much on a blackhawk, that if the tail rotor shut down...the torque of the main rotor blade is so much that it would yank the tail around so fast it would snap the tail boom completely off.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/6/2005 12:50 AM   
Nubie_1


 

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Status: offline 		I do have a question on this little Helli though now i know because I'm only a few inches off the ground I'm fighting a lot of blade wash off the ground but as far the hitting the sweet spot for hovering as the battery drops slowly Ive noticed my settings seem to change like its a real sweetheart at about half battery life but full battery and low has some minute changes in setting is this normal to these little Helli's.

Thank You
Chris

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/6/2005 2:10 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Yeah, the stock battery is a NiMH. They normally have a spike in power at full charge, it levels off as the battery is used, and then drops off as it dies.

Get a good lipo and this will help alleviate the problem. Id recommend a Thunderpower 3cell 1320mah. Run times are over 20min with this battery, and it works great.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/6/2005 2:44 AM   
thrilsekr


 

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Status: offline 		Tips for installing a new center hub and spindle set -- EFLH1145

DON'T THROW AWAY THE OLD ONE!

I am an expert at crashing, so I have logged a few hours in repairing as one could imagine.

So I had a bent main shaft. on my heli. Also the spindle was bent.

I bought the EFLH1145 (center hub and spindle) and EFLH1155 (main shaft and drive gear). I did this repair before this thread.
Anyway. To make a long story short, after spending three hours trying to figure out why my blades would not pitch well (after the rebuild). The solution to the problem was... The new rotor head did not fit right. It was too small for the center hub. It fit just fine at the top, but you will notice when you have to replace this stuff that the rotor head has some grooves that align with the center hub. When the rotor head was in its proper place (at the very bottom) the movement up and down was restricted all the way from the bottom, up to where the grooves stopped. I spent hours trying to figure out why the swashplate would not move freely on the main shaft (allowing the blades to pitch), and also looking at the spindle and blade grips to see where the restriction was before I figured it was the new center hub.
I busted out the trusty dremel tool and tried shaving the grooves on the center hub down. Did not help. I had to take it all apart again and use my old center hub with my new spindle (not sold separately) to fix the problem.

I do not know to what tolerances the parts are made, but after hours of trying different lubricants on the swash plate and shaft, and twisting the blade grips to trying to "break in the parts" (before the real problem was concluded) I had to use the old part anyway.

I don't know if this made any sense to you guys, but just something to watch out for if you buy EFLH1145. The new center hub might not fit the old rotor head properly restricting swashplate movement in turn restricting blade pitch.

thrilsekr

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/21/2005 8:26 PM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Well guys, PART 2 of this thread is almost ready. Im just finishing up taking the last few pictures, and I hope to start posting it by Sunday afternoon. I know everyone is waiting on the head trimming and set-up section, but be patient. I put them in order for a reason.

This upcoming thread has some VERY important information in it, so its valuable information not just for the beginners.

I knew this was going to be an undertaking of mass proportion, but this is insane..kinda fun though in a way.

The new pictures are going to be better too, as Im using some slave flash units and a new background to brighten things up, and get more detail.

Keep looking its almost here.



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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:01 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Part 2 - Servo installation and Avionics.

Well everyone, its time for part 2.

This section is short, mainly because its prett simple.

First take the servos and attach them to the helicopter using double sided tape as shown.

Route the servo wires underneath the servos, and then ziptie them securely.

You can go ahead and attach the servo arms, and pushrods as shown too. Dont worry about adjusting them yet, we'll get to that in a moment.


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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:05 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Now its time to review the 4-in-1 box.
View the following pictures to learn where everything goes.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:09 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Now we are going to connect everything.

Start by attaching the 4-in-1 box to the helicopter frame using double sided tape.
Then plug in the main motor. Take note of polarity.
Next plug in the tail motor, again take note of the polarity.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:14 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Next we start attaching the servo cables to the 4-in-1 box.

1. Connect the Right rear "aileron" servo to Channel 1 on the 4-in-1 box.

2. Connect the Forward "elevator" servo to Channel 2 on the 4-in-1 box.

3. Connect the Left rear "pitch/collective" servo to Channel 6 on the 4-in-1 box.



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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:18 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Now this is a CRITICAL step.

1. Turn on transmitter.

2. Plug in the battery on the helicopter.

3. Wait for the gyro to initialize, and the servos to center.

4. Unplug the battery on the helicopter.

5. Turn off the transmitter.

The main reason for doing this is so that the servos are centered before making adjustments on the helicopter in the next section.

If at anytime you move a servo arm. REDO the above centering procedures. If you move onto the next section without doing this, the helicopter will not be set up correctly.


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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:24 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Section 3. Tail motor assembly and installation

Your tail motor heatsink may vary from the one shown. The one shown is the GWS tailmotor heatsink.

First, smear some heatsink paste around the inside of the tail rotor heatsink. Slide the tail motor into the heatsink, and clean up any excess paste.

Next install the tail motor into the tail rotor gearbox housing using the two screws.

Next solder the tail motor wire harness to the tail motor.

It should look as shown.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:28 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Next insert the tail rotor shaft and a ballbearing into the tail rotor gearbox housing as shown

Ensure that the ball bearing fits snugly into the socket on the tail rotor gearbox housing as shown.



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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:33 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Next we are going to attach the tail rotor drive gear.

Its important to install this part correctly, or the tail rotor will not work correctly or could be damaged.

Ensure that the gears mesh correctly.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:38 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Now we are going to attach the tail rotor blade, and keeper.

Ensure that the posts on the rotor blade, fit snugly into the drive holes on the tail rotor drive gear.



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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 12:48 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		The next section is probably the most wanted. And I assure you it will be VERY thorough. After the next section, you should be able to trim and set-up the blade to perfection. I've still got a few pictures left to take, so stay tuned. Im hoping to have it up this week. Perhaps even monday night or so.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 1:15 AM   
Stormovic


 

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Status: offline 		Blade tail rotor rotates counterclockwise so as to rotate up into the downwash of the main rotor blades. More effective that way.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 1:36 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		The tailrotor on the blade does not extend into the downwash of the main rotor disk. The main rotor disk stops before it gets to the tail rotor. Its about an inch short with the symmetrical blades. At the most it would catch some blade tip turbulance and vortex. Perhaps a little downwash if full forward cyclic is applied.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 3:18 AM   
IB4RCFLYIN


 

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Status: offline 		Just found this thread and think it's an excellent forum, my question is (sorry if I'm re-peating something here), why the apperant fuel tubing on the landing gear and tailskid?

" If ya' ain't crashin' now and then,...Ya' ain't tryin' anything new"

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/25/2005 6:53 PM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Its just for asthetics really. I thought it looked cool and kinda personalized it.

Also the silicone tubing is longer than the rod sticking down on the tail, so if you tail strike it, it gives it a little bounce instead of a hard thwack.
Same for the landing gear. If you cut it to the right length, it's sort of like shocks on the landing struts. The biggest advantage is visibility. Heli's are notoriously hard to see far away, so any bright colors you can put on it will help visibility.

But mostly its just something different.

Silicone tubing comes in a wide variety of different colors, so you can personalize yours to your liking.

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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 7/26/2005 2:17 AM   
bdavison


 

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Status: offline 		Section 4 - Tracking and Trimming the Rotor

Well guys, its finally ready. The long awaited "HOW TO TRIM" a heli section.

This part of the thread is LONG, and will be posted in two sections. The first section will be setting up the swashplate, and the other section will be trimming out the rotor head.

It is IMPORTANT that you follow every step carefully. Im going to go very slowly and in detail, because there is alot to do here.


The single most important thing at this point of the thread is MAINTAINING the servo's centering. If at anytime during this section, you bump or move one of the servo arms after centering, you MUST recenter the servo's before continuing.

Here are the detailed instructions for centering the servos.

1. Center the rudder, aileron and elevator trims on the transmitter.
2. Center the throttle trim lever.
3. Move the throttle stick all the way down.
4. Turn on the transmitter.
5. Plug in the battery on the helicopter
6. Wait for the gyro to initialize.
7. Unplug the battery on the helicopter
8. Turn off transmitter.




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