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Now first lets go over the throttle trim lever. The throttle trim lever adjusts the rotor head speed with little to no changes in collective(pitch) on the blades.
This is important because when flying in idle up mode, you want to be able to increase or decrease rotor head speed without changing your collective(pitch).
While in idle up mode, and hovering, you want a lower head speed so that the collective is not so sensitive around neutral.
As you change into doing aerobatics, you want a higher head speed so that the collective is more sensitive around neutral. This way you dont have to put in lots of collective control during pitch changes like during rapid flips or rolls.
That's why we have a throttle trim lever.
Now you may not be at the skill level to where you need this, but its still important to set the heli up correctly so that this works.
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The first thing we need to do in trimming is to set-up the swashplate correctly. Its much easier to do this with the head removed from the heli.
To remove the head from the heli.
1. Undo the paddle control frame pushrods from the swashplate. 2. Pull out the shear pin from the rotor head 3. Pull the rotor head off the main shaft.
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Next, turn the pushrods from the servos, in or out to get the swashplate so that it is EXACTLY 1/2" from the top of the main shaft as shown in the picture. Try to keep the swashplate as level as possible.
Next, turn the pushrods from the servos, in or out to get the swashplate EXACTLY level. You can use a small leveling bubble for this. The easiest way I've found to do this is by using a drafting triangle. Place the edge of the triangle on the rotor shaft and align the swashplate with the bottom edge.
It is important for the swashplate to be level not only from the side of the helicopter, but also from the front and rear of the helicopter.
Remember to maintain the 1/2" distance from the top of the shaft while leveling the swashplate.
The better, and more precise you get this step, the better the heli will fly.
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Now reinstall the rotor head.
1. Push the rotor head back onto the main shaft. 2. Insert the shear pin back into the rotor head. 3. Reattach the paddle control frame pushrods to the swashplate.
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Now we move into setting up the rotor head
The first thing to do is to balance a set of blades. It is important to do this as precisely as possible.
Attach the blades to the balancer. If you dont have a balancer, you can make one. Take a long screw that will fit through the holes in the blades. Put a nut onto the screw, then insert the screw through both blades, and then put another nut on the end and tighten so that both blades sit as shown. You can then balance them between to books or whatever you like.
If the blades are out of balance, you can add tape to the underside of the light blade to make them balance. It shouldnt take much maybe a strip or two.
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Next install the blades.
There is alot of talk about how much to torque down the blade grip screws. Some people say leave them loose. Some people say make them tight.
I recommend tightening them so that the blades will stay in place, and will move about 2" if you sharply tap the blade tip with your finger while holding the rotor head.
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Next we adjust the flybar paddles.
1. Slightly loosen the screws that hold the paddles on. 2. Twist the paddles until they are at "0" pitch. 3. Retighten the retaining screws. 4. Re-check pitch.
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Tracking the Blades
Tracking is VITAL to keeping vibration down, and making the helicopter maintain stability.
When tracking the blades, NEVER remove pitch to lower the high blade. Always increase pitch on the low blade.
The reason for this is simple. If you lower pitch on the high blade you will be setting that blade to negative pitch. This will cause unwanted roll during high speed forward flight maneuvers, and the heli will also want to roll out of inverted maneuvers. It will also cause ground vibrations if you land while in idle-up mode.
Increase pitch on the low blade by adjusting the linkage from the rotor head frame to the blade grips.
It is easiest to do this if the blades have a stripe of different colors on each blade. The blades come with a red and black tape stripe on the blades. Simply look for which color is low while the blades are spinning.
The pictures below show properly tracking blades, and improperly tracked blades.
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Joined: 8/23/2004 From: Warner Robins,
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Well, guys....
In my haste to try to get everything up here....I missed a step. Cut me a little slack. Its hard to keep everything in order...
Anyway here is the missed step. Insert it right after the "balancing the blades" section.
Centering the flybar.
This should be self explanatory.
1. First loosen the the two allen screws shown 2. Measure and center the flybar so that it is EXACTLY the same distance on both sides of the flybar.
Some people even go so far as to balance the flybar. You can do this if you like, but in my opinion its not really necessary. If later you find that you have some vibration problems, You can check this as a possible cause. As long as the flybar is centered, it shouldnt be an issue.
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HeliNate, you would lengthen the linkage to increase pitch.
Shortening it would remove pitch.
If your really interested in truely tweaking the tracking DEAD on perfect, heres a little tip. This is kinda advanced as you have to be very careful to check to make sure you dont end up with negative pitch in one of the blades.
Instead of adding pitch to the low blade....
Add one half turn pitch to the low blade, and remove one half turn pitch on the high blade. Keep going until they match up. Once youve got them tracking perfectly, make sure to check both blades carefully to make sure that there is NO negative pitch in either blade.
This isnt recommended for most folks because its easy to get negative pitch. But if you want perfect tracking, this is the way to do it.
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RE: Bdavison's E-flite Blade Assembly - 
