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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/14/2011 11:35 AM   
ya33a


 

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From: BrisbaneN/A, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hi Guys,

Here's how I put the Kelio exhaust on my bird, I positioned the engine on my left knee and sat on the floor with the engine and exhaust loose, I then matched up the exhaust with each port as best that it would go, I found that 3 would slide in pretty well but the next 2 would be tight, so I then tried to put the 2 tight ones in first, it then meant that the 5th one was way out.... I took the exhaust off the engine and put a steel rod into the offending 2 outlets of the ring and VERY, VERY gently moved them ever so slightly whilst gripping the ring as tightly as I could, (it would be extremely easy to crack the welds and split the outlets or any comb of destroying a couple of hundred $$$) so very carefully and slowly, I then tried to put the ring on the engine again, now three went straight in, and 2 were almost in, I looked at the odd 2 and realised that only one was stuck which was keeping them both out (they were going into the first couple of threads of the exhaust in the head but not going completely down and when I attempted to thread on the exhaust flange nuts they kept cross threading, the ONLY way to ensure you never cross thread a nut or screw is to turn it carefully by hand in the opposite way to the way it needs to go in then feel and listen for the nut to 'click' that means it's exactly over the end of the start thread, you then turn back the 'correct' way with your fingers to 'feel' the thread take up, if it binds - STOP. Then feel the next nut along in sequence, till you have them started, that's when I realised that the 2 that were too tight needed adjusting again, so out with the exhaust, and gently prising the tight one with a rod down the outlet (The steel rod was a medium sized phillips head screwdriver (star head) wrapped in electrical tape) I moved the offending outlet an almost imperceptible amount (they weren't out by very much) and then reassembled it using oil on the threads and the spacers to ensure a tight seal and proper thread alignment, the exhaust almost fell into place and the nuts were easy to finger tighten down to the last few threads before needing a spanner to nip them up. Removing the exhaust and refitting it is simple now and I can position it any way I like, so be careful and take your time and remember small amounts of adjustment make a big difference.

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/15/2011 2:22 AM   
radial1951


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: chasrb

I have a possible solution to my front crank cover being loos and the need to remove teh fornt Keleo collector. I could use a m3x8mm hex head bolt and use a open end wrench to tighten down the bolt. this would be muce easier than trying to put a hex key into a SHCS. Problem is, I cannot seem to locate a supplier of m3x8mm HEX head bolts. I have looked all over the web and I am not able to locate a source. Do any of you guys know where such a product may be?

Cheers


Hi chasrb

Why not just put a short piece of hex key in the SHCS and use your open ender on the hex as though it is a bolt...  If that doesn't allow you to get the SHCS tight enough because of the small AF of the hex, you could use a short length of larger AF hex key and carefully grind / file one end of it down to be a NEAT fit in the SHCS. Then use the open ender on the larger hex. The whole thing only needs to be long enough for the spanner to fit the hex safely. Hope this makes sense...

Regards RossG
radial1951
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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/27/2011 10:38 PM   
Aluminum Overcast


 

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From: Waterford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Okay Fellas,

I Posted some vid of my most recent ASP FR400AR runs. Recorded in 5.1 surround sound from different angles and RPM range it gives a pretty good representation of the sound characteristics of this engine as well as it's performance. I was able to show my run time at WOT to be 13 minutes 38 seconds on a 16 oz tank. Not bad, really! I also ran at night towards the end of the vid to record a bit of fire coming out the exhaust tubes. Pretty cool....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LK1jFy3AeGY&feature=channel_video_title

< Message edited by Aluminum Overcast -- 11/28/2011 4:00 AM >

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/28/2011 4:57 AM   
kivisto


 

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From: gibson city, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Al Overcast, nice vid. More about the radio south glow driver - what are you doing about driver battery?? also what weather app was that?

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/28/2011 5:31 AM   
Kmot



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Aluminum Overcast

Okay Fellas,

I Posted some vid of my most recent ASP FR400AR runs.


DUDE!

That is a rockin' sockin' badd azz video of the FS400! One of the best yet I have seen. Awesome, really awesome!

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/29/2011 1:29 AM   
Aluminum Overcast


 

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From: Waterford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Guys. I felt this engine deserves better more complete coverage and sound recording, hence my video. Frankly I really have had little or no problem with mine (had to replace my low speed o ring as it was deformed) but I seem to read about all the problems people are having. I suspect the guys who have difficulty or unsure about this engine come to the web searching for solutions so that is what you hear most. Everyone else is out flying them. I do intend to fly the daylights out of this engine beginning next spring. And if I still like it to buy a few more... For the cost of 1 Saito 5 cylinder you could have 2 of these with a few hundred bucks to spare and more power to boot. You could also have 4 of these for the cost of 1 Moki. Can you say HUGE B17? When you look at it this way its hard to argue against the fact that these are the best all round value in radials, bar none.

In response to you questions:
Prop is the break in prop suggested =20X8 (Master Airscrew) As you can hear in the video, this engine handles this prop easily.

Max RPM I saw was 7,700 at peak but I run it at 7,550 or so (just a bit rich) using Omega 10% castor

Not sure which tubes you are referring to. The one on the bottom of the engine is the crank drain. There is a silicone tube sticking out from behind the test stand. It's just for filling the tank, that's it.

I am running this engine with no exhaust pressure or pump on the fuel tank...it's just a straight set up there. The tank is a bit higher than the carb so this may be why it idles so low. Pretty fantastic low idle. It may be possible to go even lower on the idle as my linkage and radio trims are maxed here. Glow driver is a must I think this low, however.


Electro Dynamics glow driver is what I'm using (sorry, I miss spoke not Radio South!). it's set to come on at half throttle on down to idle and uses an included 1.2 V / 9,000 mAH D sized battery. It's good for a few tanks but looses power after. This could be a bad battery but there is a fair amount of juice drawn to light all 5 cylinders. I will probably add another D cell or explore a lipo option if I don't need the nose weight.

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/29/2011 7:09 PM   
wherewaldo


 

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From: trenton, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		i am looking at a on board glow driver for my asp 400,,,,,a company called sonic tronics that i looked up on the internet  has one for a 5 cylinder radial
does anyone have any experience with this driver or any other one that could be recommended  The  sonic driver retails for 153.95 us


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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/29/2011 7:29 PM  1 votes
Pete Bergstrom


 

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From: Champaign, IL, USA
Status: offline 		The SonicTronics driver works very well.  I have used them on 7 & 9 cylinder radials for some time now.  Make sure you follow their recommendations as to battery size.  5 glow plugs will pull 11-15 amps at a time.

Pete

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/30/2011 4:08 PM   
farmerric


 

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From: Lambertville, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		I have one on my Saito 5 cylinder engine an it works great They have been around a long time
Ric

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 11/30/2011 8:06 PM   
wherewaldo


 

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From: trenton, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		thanks for the input , I just ordered a unit today ......should be delivered this week..the price i paid was 105 us + shipping ... better than i thought!
Let you know how it works once i get the engine and the drivers hooked up on the test stand ..thanks!


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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/1/2011 3:58 PM   
outlaw21


 

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From: berthoud, CO, USA
Status: offline

new guy here Made this engine about 2 years ago still working on it



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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/2/2011 6:02 AM   
ya33a


 

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From: BrisbaneN/A, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Wow,
Nice work, is it spark ignition or glo? What is the capacity? Has it run yet? Any more photos other than the teasers you put on the site?

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/2/2011 6:44 PM   
outlaw21


 

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From: berthoud, CO, USA
Status: offline 		The prints started as 100cc It's called a kenner I bored and stroke it to 175cc It had solid cast iron cylinders
I made them alum. with cast iron sleeve to lose weight It uses 5 seperate cams I'm on my third set
Started out to be spark does not work very well so went to glow Has run up to 4200 rpm when it gets hot
it stops I think my pistons are to tight? I'll try to get video little cold here now Would like to put it on 35 % pitts
thanks not much of a writer more of a machinest

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/3/2011 6:27 AM   
ya33a


 

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From: BrisbaneN/A, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		I wouldn't worry about the writing the engineering speaks for itself, you could try a slightly higher oil content to try and get it to wear in a little more so it won't get as hot and possibly run it rich so it won't nip up, that's if you don't want to have to pull it down and relieve the bores or skim the pistons, that's always the hardest question to answer, you could spend forever chasing your tail. What was the problem with the cams?

Where did the plans come from?

Thanks for the reply, as you can see we're all very keen to findout about the work you're doing, have you started the plane yet?

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/3/2011 11:03 PM   
outlaw21


 

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From: berthoud, CO, USA
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No plane yet I have run the engine alot still to tight I have that problem making things to tight
The prints came from Strictly I.C. and nothing wrong with the cams just trying diffrent one's
over lap, lift,deration ect.



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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/5/2011 3:14 AM   
wherewaldo


 

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From: trenton, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		hey people just installed my keleo exhaust to my asp 400, mine fit fairly well once the first  3 exhaust ports were finger threaded  in... the last 2 needed a little muscle to make them aline ,once they were all in i used the wrench to tighten them in ...it looks great on , now once i get my on board glow uni,t it will be time to fire this engine up!
 


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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/5/2011 3:32 AM   
Aluminum Overcast


 

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From: Waterford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Nice work outlaw,

Not sure if you know about the yahoo group (I joined them a few years ago) for radial engine builders but it's a very accomplished group with a building passion and excellent info and plans. Here is the link:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/R_and_R_engines/


Also there is a free pub you can sign up for published By Mike Rehmus if you like as well:
http://www.modelenginebuilder.com/

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/5/2011 7:40 AM   
radial1951


 

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From: NSW, AUSTRALIA
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That's a nice job, outlaw21.

Kenner?  Did you mean Kinner?  When it was a spark engine, what was the setup? Very interested to know if you used a distributor, electronic with sensors etc, etc...

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/6/2011 11:04 PM   
outlaw21


 

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From: berthoud, CO, USA
Status: offline 		Yes your right Kinner I had a CH electronic ignition used small magnet for pick up and a shutter
then just cap and rotor With parts that small you have a problem with spark arcing every where

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/14/2011 4:31 AM   
Kmot



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From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		18 Cylinder 1/4 Scale Radial Engine



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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/14/2011 6:24 AM   
Dad_Roman



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From: Teague, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Wow...engine lovers of the world rejoice!

http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/searchresults.aspx?action=search&intSaleID=18885#action=paging&&intSaleID=18885&sid=00a0b98a-c0ac-453c-a609-57d77e1049ab&pg=1

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/14/2011 11:16 AM   
chasrb



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From: Warrenton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Kmot, that is a very nice engine!!! It is so smooth in transition. Now what automobile do I have to sell to get one?

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/14/2011 11:17 PM   
Ram-bro


 

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From: Bennington, NE, USA
Status: online 		Kmot, that sounds good and loos pretty compact. Is it home-made? Would bet that could turn a scale 4 blade prop

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/15/2011 12:01 AM   
Kmot



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From: Northridge, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I do not know, there are not many details in the video's description.

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RE: Everything Radial Engines - 12/15/2011 1:21 AM   
Aluminum Overcast


 

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From: Waterford, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Judging from the cooling grooves in the valve covers it looks a lot like Lee Hodgson's design from Ageless engines. Perhaps he's planning to CNC and sell these all built or as a kit. I know the Authentic Scale guy is working with suppliers like Lee to bring their designs into the CNC / mass production era. Pretty cool for us...

Some pretty interesting and beautiful designs here:
http://www.agelessengines.com/18cylpic.htm

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