RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (Full Version)

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colrod12 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/25/2005 2:40:30 AM)

Dang I did not Realise you were across the pond mate way across Sorry![&o]
If yas dont have Radio shacks then a computer store should do the trick for the usb connector




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/25/2005 6:52:04 AM)

Well I can definatley confirm that the supplied chargers from walkera are crap! Mine has stopped working after only 3 charges.
Time to get a swallow charger I think.

I'm out of action until I can get my batts re-charged.[&o]




rathalian -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 5:39:38 AM)

Re Cable for PC Simulator (eg FMS).

Checkout http://www.milehighwings.com/pic_cables.htm as this guy makes PIC cables especially for the walkera 22A and 35 models. I have the 35 and assume the the controller is exactly the same as the only difference in the heli's is mechanical (eg rear belt drive) - the Collective/Throttle mix would be the same as would the rear rotor angle control.

I would contact walkera to confirm that they use the same controller / electronics setup as the 35, then contact milehighwings and get a cable from them (or even better get them to confirm it on a 36 ;) ).

I have ordered one - cost $34 AU including shipping - well worth it. You can also use the controller as a controller for planes etc - cheaper than buying a dedicated sim set !

(I'm in Brisbane)




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 8:17:03 AM)

Cool, thanks for that.

I'm pretty sure that the #35 Tx is the same as the #36.
Let me know how you go with the #35 sim cable.


I bought a new charger today (Swallow advance) so I can get hovering (just) again tonight. [:D]




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 12:58:17 PM)

Well the good news is I got my batts charged, the heli is hovering properly now, and I got some more practise at hovering.[:D]

The bad news is I drifted in to my BBQ and broke a blade and blade grip.[&o]

Does anyone know of any compatible alloy blade grips (or "main blade assembly" ) for the #35/#36 (they are the same, mine actually has 35# written on it)?

Although maybe it is better to let that part break during a crash rather than breaking more expensive parts?

It appears that the blade grip would be the first part to break when the main blade strikes something. I'd suggest any other newbies stock up on blades and Blade grips (HM036-001 or HM035-026) for the #36.

The before and after shots:




stoogy -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 1:03:09 PM)

Ouch! , hey how many flights do you get on the 8 AAA batteries for the transmitter? I understand it takes regular non rechargebable batteries.
I can't wait to get my #36 it should be arriving sometime this week. I also bought a X400 ...




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 1:10:20 PM)

5 flights so far (3x LiPo charge, 2x NiMH). The Tx still indicates full power. I'm just using standard Energizer alkaline AAs.




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 1:12:23 PM)

NOTE: Contrary to a lot of advertisements, they require 8x AA for the TX. NOT 8x AAAs.




stoogy -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 1:20:06 PM)

Thats cool what about the heli bat? how long of flight do you get with the ly-poli?





aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 1:33:19 PM)

Hard to say, I haven't really timed it and 2 of the 3 LiPo charges were with the crap supplied charger, The 3rd is when I crashed and the batt was still going strong.

I'd guess at least 10 minutes on the 1500mah LiPo.




art103 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 5:00:21 PM)

Hi all,

I have relentlessly read through the whole #35 thread, and this one (not so long :).

Against all of the bad press with exploding batteries, jittery servos and melting ESCs, I have gone ahead and purchased a Dragonfly / Walkera #36 helicopter.

It is supposed to come with a stock 380 motor, and an upgraded 2200mAh LiPo battery.

Below is what I have tried to gather from the forum - a list of the things I think I need to do before even thinking of flying - I would very much appreciate it if anyone can point out areas that I've missed or got completely wrong.

- Check the battery voltage, and get it on charge if it's flat (check with a DVM), otherwise leave it.
- Tear down the helicopter, and build it up again checking every nut and bolt for tightness (blades not too tight).
- Disconnect the motor, then connect the battery and turn on the TX.
- Let all of the servos center.
- Check alignments / clashing parts / gear mesh tightness (a piece of paper was suggested)
- Burn in the motor gently for an hour (no load)
- Check the servos for jitter (possibly with the Gyro out of circuit?)
If they are faulty either send back, or get the WD40 to the potentiometers.
- With the motor disconnected / not meshed with the main rotor, check the pitch of the main blades from 0% - 100% throttle. Using DIP 8 and the two POTs on the TX to adjust (0 Deg @ 0%, 3 Deg @ 50%, 7 Deg @ 100%)
- Balance the weight of the heli while holding it by the collector / bar thingi. (terminology?)

Getting going:
- Fasten the training gear :)
- Gradually increase the throttle and see if it spins / leans forward / backwards.
Adjust Gyro / trimmers / weight distribution to compensate
- Learn to hover... in a wide open space!

Some options:
- Replace servos with HS-55's
- Dismantle the RX / ESC and expose the FETs to some cool air
- Upgrade to Brushless + better RX / TX?

What hapens when you switch into 3D mode, does the right stick now adjust only pitch rather than rotor speed + pitch?
(I won't be doing this for several months BTW :)

Is it worth getting some PC software to practice?
If so, where from?

I have only read the forums, and am a complete newbe to this, so any advice is gratefully received.

If and when I get this baby in the air, I'll post some vids, and maybe even a detailed log of box arrival to first hover.

Cheers,
Richard.






Apneahunter -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/26/2005 8:43:19 PM)

hey all,

I just bought a 36 this is my first heli and also went the cheap route. I purchased it from ebay@etamyia.com and it was on my door step in five days. Although they simply wrapped the box in paper and shipped it from Hong Kong leaving me with a brand new broken 36. One of the aileron blades was broken, one of the servos is stripped, and the charger they sent me if for 220vac and I live in California which is 110vac........ So any how I realize after reading the posts that the charger is a POS anyways. But where can I get stronger blade that are symmetrical? What other parts can we swap on these little birds? Who knows a good carbon fiber dealer where we can make custom parts? I do like the belt driver system its cool!




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/27/2005 12:23:36 AM)

I am also a newbie and read most of the #35 thread. Your list looks pretty thourough.

I didn't bother to strip the heli right down though, I just gave it a good check. Make sure you don't tighten screws too much because you'll strip the plastic.

In regards to the PZT/PLT pots, I'd try not to touch them if possible. You can adjust the pitch with the linkage arms or by sliding the bearing (that the collective servo is attached to) on the bottom of the collective control rod (that goes through the main drive) up or down.

I've found that the tail servo will jitter a bit, but I think that is normal.

In 3D mode the throttle pretty much goes straight to 100% and the stick just controls the pitch.




Apneahunter -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/27/2005 2:34:24 AM)

Aurora799,

was the center of gravity already set up for you out of the box? I need help or some sort of diagram to help me set it up. My Gyro was installed crooked and the servo for the tail pitch is also tilted up? it should be 90* to the ground right? Does anybody know if the blades and crash kit from the 35 is the same as the 36?




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/27/2005 3:38:11 AM)

The center of gravity seemed a bit tail heavy, but when you put the LiPo in it was just about right. I don't think there is much that you can change to set the center of gravity besides the battery.
I shoved my LiPo into the front holder long ways (it kind of jams against the servos). I put a small peice of cardboard between the LiPo and the motor so the LiPo doesn't get hot. (My motor gets very hot). The canopy only just fits on with the LiPo like this. I'm using a rubber band to hold it in place.

See the my photo on page 1 of this thread to look at my tail servo. I did notice that the servo mount will move a bit by hand, but I can't get it any tighter (its stong enough that it should move unless it is knocked). I had to turn the horn on the server one notch and slide my servo slightly closer to the tail to get the correct tail pitch.

A new tail servo mount (alluminium) would be nice, so that it could be tightened up a bit more.

As far as I know the Blades are the same. I noticed that a lot of parts on my #36 actually have 35# written on them, indicating that they are actually #35 parts. The crash kit for the #35 usually includes tail gears which you won't need with the belt system.




grant365 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/28/2005 4:23:59 AM)

Still waiting for my #36 ^#$@ ... there have been some delays with shipping in china. Seems like forever, but I have taken the opportunity to read up a lot more on the various aspects of rc helis. In the mean time after reading previous mails on this thread I decided to order a second #36 for spares. I chose the one with the brushless motor and 30A ESC but without all the other electronic components which only cost a few extra $$. I figure that the motor is probably one of the more likely electronic components to go.

aurora799 ...did you manage to sort out the discrepancy between full left and right cyclic on the swash plate?

Also if you want a 12V power supply that runs off 240V to plug your charger into, you can quite easily build one using an old pc power supply. Here is a link that tells you how http://www.marcee.org/Articles/PCPowerSupply.htm . If you are only drawing 1-2A which you may even be able to draw off your existing PC's power supply depending on what wattage it is and what components it has.

I am also going to have a crack at building a parallel port sim interface. Not sure if anyone has tried this with a Walkera 6ch yet.

Looking forward to finding out what flying times I am going to get out of my 2200mah lipo pack. Was going to order a second one but cant find one that is sold separately.







aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/28/2005 5:24:31 AM)

I'm currently waiting on some new blade grips before I can get flying again. I've also ordered another spare set of main and tail blades and another 1500mah LiPo. He is also sending a replacement Charger that I probably won't use.

My supplier is RC-Maxtrading (ebay store). He's been ok to deal with, although he doesn't seem to know much about RC or electronics. He seems to check with people a the Walkera factory when I have questions. He discounted the LiPo (US$20) and spare parts too. However he did tell me that the charger would work on the LiPo, which it did (while monitoring very carefully) but it was drawing about 600 - 700mA when the charger was only rated to 500mA. Hence the charger did not last long.

Grant - My left & right cyclic is still uneven, but it hasn't affected my hovering much yet (although I have crashed by drifting sideways, but I think that was my fault). I the main thing is that the swash plate is level when the Tx stick in the middle. Can someone measure or photo how much their swashplate tilts left/right? It would be interesting to see if anyone else with a #36 has the same problem. Also does anyone know how many degrees of tilt you should get? I'm not sure if I'm getting too much or too little on one side.

Thanks for the power supply tip, I should have thought of that before considering I'm a Computer Systems Engineer. I should be able to find a nice big server power supply to use.




aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/28/2005 6:19:17 AM)

Yep, Just found a nice big Power supply which is rated at 12.05V 9A. That should do nicely for powering my Swallow advance charger.




hydravien -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/28/2005 5:58:17 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: Apneahunter

hey all,

I just bought a 36 this is my first heli and also went the cheap route. I purchased it from ebay@etamyia.com and it was on my door step in five days. Although they simply wrapped the box in paper and shipped it from Hong Kong leaving me with a brand new broken 36. One of the aileron blades was broken, one of the servos is stripped, and the charger they sent me if for 220vac and I live in California which is 110vac........ So any how I realize after reading the posts that the charger is a POS anyways. But where can I get stronger blade that are symmetrical? What other parts can we swap on these little birds? Who knows a good carbon fiber dealer where we can make custom parts? I do like the belt driver system its cool!


i have the 35 and all parts are interchangeable with the zoom/shohun 400 and they most likely will be with the 36 as well.

for main blades i bought align 305mm to replace the stock blades. (looked like 285mm) i havent lifted off the ground yet but they have one hell of alot more lift. you can also go online to www.helihobby.com they have replacements for the shogun 400. i think cf blades start around $40.

http://www.helihobby.com/html/zoom_composites.html for cf parts

[edit] the 36 may be a knockoff of the trex bc of the belt drive and motor position[/edit]




chkotze -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/30/2005 4:04:49 AM)

Hi...I bought a new Dragonfly 36 helicopter and cannot get it to lift off the ground. What are the settings for the TX ??? Thanks for any advise




hydravien -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/30/2005 4:20:35 AM)

had teh same problem with my 35

you need to unlock switch 8 on the back of the controller, and then set the pitch settings on the blades by turning the two knobs on the top. unplug the motor and put the heli at full throttle. watch the blades, they should turn on more of an angle the higher the throttle.

if you have switch 8 unlocked, turn the knob clockwise. you should see the blades turn on even more of an angle. once they look right (have to eyeball that with no guage) plug the motor back in and try to fly it.

i would also suggest better blades over stock. i put align(trex) 305mm woodies on my heli and it was immesuable how better it was. (stock motor)

i could be wrong. i should stop posting so much, people may start to think i know what im talking about[;)]




bfrunner -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/30/2005 12:00:37 PM)

Does anybody know if the tail boom supports for the t rex 450 are the same length as the #36 tail boom supports. I bought a set for the 400 but they are to short. I like teh carbon rods with the machined AL ends better than the supports that the #36 comes with. Any help woul be appreciated.[:D]




bfrunner -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/30/2005 12:05:25 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: hydravien

i have the 35 and all parts are interchangeable with the zoom/shohun 400 and they most likely will be with the 36 as well.




I think the only thing interchangable between the #35, and the #36 are the complete rotor head assembly including the swashplate, rotor blades, and tail rotor blades. The rest of the parts appear to be different.




rathalian -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/30/2005 1:21:40 PM)

Update re the cable from milehighwings.com so I can use the walkera #35 controller with FMS.

OK well...one word - AWESOME !!!

I suggest you download ppjoy as this installs a driver that adds a virtual joystick to the computer if you are running NT/XP/2000 OS's. EG your computer sees a new joystick (which is your controller).

You then startup FMS - select your com port that the controller is plugged into, calibrate the controller and off you go.

The accuracy in FMS is good using the threed model. Great fun and particularly good for assisting you with not losing the situational awareness and getting used to reverse mode flying (eg fly nose towards you instead of away).

Considering flight sim packages with a dummy controller go for 400 bucks - I have paid a total of $300 including postage and have gotten a complete Zap/Shogun 400 type helicopter and a simulator kit suitable for my helicopter, and just as important my electric planes !!!!

I am very happy with both the model and the cable.

One comment I must make - I am of the opinion there are a lot of complaints about the ability to fly this bird because people who buy any ready to run model make assumptions they should not. I race cars, fly planes and helis and have built models and have bought read to run kits as well.

All people who buy ready to run kits should treat them like 'build your own' models - eg work your way progressively through each part of the helicopter - hell take it apart and reasemble so :
1 - You know how it works and how to identify issues if they arise
2 - More importantly, you go through the all important model tuning phase. Eg I have not seen anywhere near enough mention of balancing in these forums. You helicopter will fly like ****e no matter what you do if your bird is out of balance. Start from the rotor controls then move the rotor rod, out to the flybar then on to the paddles and finally and most importantly learn how to balance main rotor blades !!!....these buggers will generate most model instability (provided servo's are ok) and most are not balanced out of the box, no matter how good they are. It only takes a percentage of a gram to make a smooth flying heli fall from grace and make stable flight much more difficult. One great way to observe heli vibrations is to leave the trainers on - they will highlight vibrations.

Its all good and well mastering a flight simulator - but you must also master the art of making your model mechanically sound....

Saying that they are a ****eload of fun and for the price I am impressed. I have hooked up with 3 mates and we all have walkera birds (a #4 and 2 #35's) and we are all doing well....!!




rathalian -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (7/30/2005 1:26:13 PM)

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