RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (Full Version)

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aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 12:35:49 AM)

The #36 is "capable" of full 3d flight including flying inverted, however you would need to upgrade a few parts before you consider trying, not to mention having mastered normal flight.

Art103 -
Can't say I've had any problems with my Walkera 1500mah LiPo's yet (I've got 2). When you say "squidgy" do you mean soft?
It appears that my LiPos have some sort of electronic components in them (at the end). When the get below about 10v (with a load) and you put a DVM on them with no load they report as 0v. Is that normal? The seem to re-charge ok.

I think I read something about someone taking the cover off the RX to cool it down in the #35 thread. I'm not sure that the had much success, although I don't recall them putting an actual heat sink on it though. I think it is the ESC in the RX that gets hot.

Let us know how it goes and take some photos.



imaginit -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 6:44:52 AM)

good for you guys thats the only thing happenned to your battery...mine? I'm just checking the movements of my servos when smokes came out from my #36 and later found out that my battery burned out...my supplier promised to send the replacement ond hopefully to get it today...



aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 6:53:09 AM)

Sounds like you had a short circuit somewhere. Batteries don't just blow up on there own, even walkera ones [;)]
I'd recommend checking out you heli further before connecting another battery.



imaginit -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 7:03:03 AM)

yap....I think the esc has something to do with my burned battery... and I just ordered a spare... just in case,tnx aurora799



stoogy -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 1:15:12 PM)

My battery (li-poly) didn't blow up but it is dead would not charge. The Nimih works great but it only gives me about 2 mins before runs out of juice although does not lift off the ground. I contacted my seller in China but I don't know if they will replace it. Im losing faith in this copter I hope this thing flies eventually.



solocarlo -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 5:37:47 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: aurora799

Sounds like you had a short circuit somewhere. Batteries don't just blow up on there own, even walkera ones [;)]
I'd recommend checking out you heli further before connecting another battery.


It could be the polarity on a diode at the motor is reversed.

This helicopter is no difference from the #35. It uses the same esc, gyro, receiver from the #35 which it'll subject to radio glitch. Honestly to tell you guys, I've began losing faith on walkera helicopters since they fail to perform what they promise to do and they have electronic design flaws. I owned almost every model they put on the market. The so-called 3-d capable helicopters from walkera only looks good and good for hovering and they will never be capable of doing 3d right out of the box unless you do expensive upgrades and modifications. Their ad are so misleading and preying on noive pilots.

So if you want a good looking helicopter just for hovering, stick with a walkera. That's all you can do. You're just wasting your money on buying batteries, spareparts and your flying skill won't progress and will always stay on jr level.



bfrunner -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 6:51:05 PM)

I agree that Walkera Electronics could be better, even though so far mine seem fine but look at the price of thier helicopters. They have to compromise something, as with every other RTR hobby quality rc on the market. Whether it be RC cars/truck, planes, boats, and yes even helicopters.

As far as the helicopters themselves I have to disagree, I thought the #36 is just as well made as any other preassembled helicopter out there. I also have a Dragonfly 5 Version 3 which looks pretty good.


I have seen these other heli's the Z400, and t rex 450 first hand so I know. The parts quality looked about the same, as well as parts fit and finish. I say if you buy a Walkera helicopter get it with out the electronics and install your own. Apperantly alot of problems I have been reading about are beginner mistakes blaming the Heli instead of there inexperience with these machines.



bfrunner -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 6:53:41 PM)

[X(]



sparkling_fist -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 7:51:02 PM)

im getting the power problem..
what do you sujest i do..
i got it 2day and ive tried a take off but it crashed without reaching 2 inches



solocarlo -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 8:18:48 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: bfrunner

I have seen these other heli's the Z400, and t rex 450 first hand so I know. The parts quality looked about the same, as well as parts fit and finish. I say if you buy a Walkera helicopter get it with out the electronics and install your own. Apperantly alot of problems I have been reading about are beginner mistakes blaming the Heli instead of there inexperience with these machines.


Actually the walkera spare parts are very low quality and weak. One strike, you're out. The stock blade grids, tail gears all damage on a minor crash, where the helicopter hovers half a foot in the air and suddenly it loses radio contact with the tx.
d
I replaced the stock blade grids, tail gears, and etc with some aftermarket parts (unknow brand). I was surprised, they are much stronger. I had several crashes while hovered 5 feet in the air due to bad radio contact. No damage had been done to these aftermarket spareparts, except for the blades. The unknow brand only costs 5% higher. You don't have to get the original shogun parts due to higher cost and the quality is the same as those unknown brand.



bfrunner -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 8:33:29 PM)

quote:

One strike, you're out. The stock blade grids, tail gears all damage on a minor crash


Those are common parts that brake on every rc copter I've seen. Feathering shaft and the main rotor shaft are also susceptible to damage just as any other ccpm heli.

I have a 36 so tail gears are a mute point for me [:)]

I've hit alot with my 36 and have busted one blade grip, and tweaked the feathering shaft. That was from hitting a chair at full WOT. If I had a Trex or a 400 guess what the same parts would have been damaged. I replaced the blade grips with some 400 ones with the metal balls, but the plastic seems about the same other than the texture of the plastic.

The electronics as said earlier could be better, or not include them at all like other manufacturers.



sparkling_fist -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/5/2005 10:23:38 PM)

has any1 managed to fly one of these for over 2 mins?

i cant get mine to bloody take off!
and it seems so hard to control.



imaginit -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/6/2005 2:05:06 AM)

Now I got my new battery and an ESC (spare)..i connected the battery first (after charging) and see if how will it response...this time I am more carefull....nothing happenned but all the servos are responsing....I replaced the ESC with my spare....now its ok,,, I thought it will continue BUT...in the middle trottle the motors shut down (Just like the others)....I immediately disconnected the battery and checked whats wrong....I am sure of my battery it is ok.... but the motor ... its heat up so fast for just no less than 20 secs. the ESC also heats up.... I let it cool down and try again...the same thing happened...now I isolated the problem...I removed the connection of the motor and checked the output of the ESC... it really drops at the middle of the trottle... then I disconnected the ESC to the receiver... I connected the battery to the receivers power connector and tried to see the output reading for the esc....it really drops at the middle of the trottle... now what... did I really did it right?could somebody help me before I junk this thing....do anyone took a note on the dip switches at the back of the tx?



stoogy -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/6/2005 2:27:54 AM)

It sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere , by the way you describe the problem I think you may have a bad motor.
do you have a spare motor you can swap with and try?





imaginit -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/6/2005 2:51:00 AM)

Yap.. I have one spare motor and an esc for a t-rex. but i can get it till monday...I am stocking spare parts for t-rex and build them later ..I think I can try that...



stoogy -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/6/2005 4:01:25 AM)

Hi imaginit, here are the dip switches position in the back of my TX- all the switches execpt #8 are to the left <- position , i do fly with switch #8 UNLOKCED so i can trim the mix if i have to.
The left knob prevents the heli from spining at lift off, the right knob controls the lift of the main rotor, all the way open clock wise will give you the most lift in my experience.
Then again i haven't been able to fly that much cause my li-poly battery is bad. The Dealer is sending me a new one.



solocarlo -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/6/2005 10:58:37 AM)

The 35,36 & etc have electronic problems to begin with. Normally the radio gitch doesn't occur until your battery has been used for a while. From my obervations, as long as the battery(NiMH or Lipos) is on healthy condition, the radio gitch would less likely to occur, and I don't say it will not occur. When the motor spins up and suddenly it stops on a brand new battery, it tells you your battery is not brand new, your seller ship a used battery as brand new to you. I had this seller from ebay sold me used lipo batteries as brand new ones. When I flew the heli with these batteries I thought they were brand new, the heli could never lift higher than a foot and hovers only a few seconds in the air before dropping back down to the ground and the motor shuts off by itself more than a dozen times. When I informed the seller, his response was, the flight time of the battery heavily depends on the skill of the pilot. After a dozen email exchanges with the seller, he finally confessed that he made a mistake and shipped the batteries from an used battery bin. Can you believe it? The electronics of the walkera 35/36 can help you to sniff out the unhealthy batteries for you which it's not bad after all.



rotarypower3 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/7/2005 8:57:18 AM)

Heli-Fever are now selling barebones #36's and all spare parts.[:D]
http://www.heli-fever.com



UGBOYZ80 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/7/2005 10:22:24 AM)

Walkera No. 36 Flying Movie - http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/zoom.php?id=5



aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/7/2005 1:03:02 PM)

I've started to do a bit of a paint job on my #36. I've done the fins so far, they are metalic blue. I'm working on my canopy now. I'm spraying the inside of the clear canopy with the same metalic blue then I'll probably put some red or orange on it too.


Had another crash yesterday. Hit the ground side on from about 4 feet. Managed to get away with damaging the boom supprt, main blades (boom strike), and bending the spindle shaft.

I replaced the blades with spares that I had, and straightened the boom support & spindle shaft. It was flying good again today.



aurora799 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/7/2005 1:06:54 PM)

I managed to get the power supply for my charger working nicely. It's a PS out of a Compaq server.
I've put sockets on it for +12v, +5.5v, and +3.3v.

Works great with the Swallow Advace charger.



lawling -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/7/2005 1:55:24 PM)

I just buy a Walkera Dragonfly # 36 & # 39 in www.ehirobo.com . Their price is very good and have User Manual allow download before I buy it. So, I recommend this good web site for Helicopter player... : )

RC Heli Man



grant365 -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/8/2005 4:18:34 AM)

Got my #36 last week[:D] I have spent some time setting it up and now have it doing some stable low hovering [:D]. In the process I managed to nick the main blades on the wall. So I am onto my second set of blades already. The specs are #36, 180 brushless, 30A ESC. Here are my comments so far...

The chinese ebay vendor sent me a 11.1V LIPO that only registered 7.4V instead of a 11.1V LIPO....they agreed to replace it. Then I nearly overcharged my NIMH pack after leaving it on for an hour....it was almost too hot to touch...fortunately I don't seem to have damaged it permanently....it seems that the supplied charger does not have a cutoff or it is faulty. A swallow charger is on its way already.

The transmitter was not screwed together so it came apart in my hands....fortunately before I started flying. The vendor offered to reimburse me for the screws...bit of a joke really.

The flybar paddles were at the wrong angle...it took me a while to realise that the flybar paddles are screwed onto the connector....once I set them to the correct angle I used some CA to lock them in position. It also seems the flybar can be locked in a positon which may not be centred because the bar has a flat sections that are about 3mm wide onto which the grub screws fasten....I am using a vernier to centre it...any other suggestions?

I worked out that the acro(aeroplane type)/Heli dip switch on the Tx adds in tail revo mixing(but the labeling is incorrect)...so I have set mine to heli given that the gyro is supposed to be heading hold and therefore does not require revo mix (I can't remember where I read that)...it seems to work ok. All the dip switches on the Tx are off now.

I have levelled the swashplate and set the tracking of the main blades....when I hover I need to use close to (1) full right aileron trim and (2) forward pitch trim. I assume this is because of (1) sideways thrust generated by the tail rotor to counteract the main rotor and (2) because the CG of the heli is behind the main shaft due to the light weight of the NIMH batteries. Hoping the LIPO's are will improve the CG situation.

I also got a yellow coloured servo for the tail rotor....it is a bit smaller than the others....I assume that walkera have made this substitution because the smaller servos have qiucker response times.

I also think I have figured out the PLT and PZT adjustments on the Tx ....the PZT (on the right) trims the collective sevo in both the Normal and Idle Up 1 modes and the PLT (on the left) adjusts the extent of the collective servo movements in both modes. The PZT is useful for setting 0 degrees pirch at 0 throttle. This would otherwise be quite tricky because you would have to adjust the collar on the collective control rod. Don't take my word on these.....I'll try and validate after a bit more flying and experience.

There seems to be quite a bit of slop in the standard cyclic components and links. I have checked that everything is tight but it seems that it is mainly due to poor quality components. This reduces the sensitivity of the cyclic controls. Any solutions?

The drive belt for the tail rotor seems to be a bit too tight. Has anyone worked out how to loosen these on a #36 yet?

Apart from my initial problems with the wrong battery, a bent flybar rod and missing screws, I am pleased with the product in terms of its value for money.

Keen to hear your comments & tips...hope to get some photos up soon.

Cheers
Grant





sparkling_fist -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/8/2005 5:23:30 PM)

i was planning on getting the walkera brushless motor and actiyator..
the motor is ment to be 3200 rpm right?

well i thought id make a change and get an rc smart 4800 rpm..
it should make a difference to the flying..
but it will drain the battery quick

also my li-po 2200mah battery was a square like this []
now it thas expanded,, its becoming like this ([])
the cover on my ni-mh battery is ripping appart because ive charged it for 3 hours...
it was hot enough to boil water



cptsnoopy -> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 (8/8/2005 10:03:10 PM)

if your lipo battery is swelling you need to be extra carefull with it. It swells like that if you charge it incorrectly or draw too much current from it. it has come close to catching on fire. it may be a good idea to dispose of it. don't just throw it away however... there are a couple of good threads on how to neutralize the lipo before you toss it. good luck. :)



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