RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36  
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    • All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36
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    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/27/2008 1:47:09 PM   
    Fugitive_Bill


     

    Posts: 77
    Joined: 6/30/2005
    From: SydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
    Status: offline     		The way I see it Finless Bob is the RC God and from what I can see, he has committed himself to the Spektrum brand.

    But I think there is nothing wrong with good quality 72/36 mhz radios.

    I never had problems with Futaba or Sanwa gear in the past.

    It was just when the RTF models with the junk radio/electronics appeared on the scene is when I had problems.

    Problem is now the cheap brands are all going 2.4ghz, I wonder if the electrionics going to now work. (read: will now be reliable.)

    I bought the DX6i and now I only (try to) get ARF (not RTF) models.
    Even though the DX6i is only 6ch and accussed of feeling bulky to hold and cheap looking, I still
    prefer it over the the DX6 and DX7 as it's programming methods are much easier to set and understand.


    Hmm AUSSIES, look JunkzOr is a Mexican from VIC. He would see me as a Canadian from NSW. We are supposed 'hate' each other. And his DAMNED football team just made into 'our' NSW Grand Final. LOL

    And those Kangeroos jumping around everywhere down there, up here we just shoot the suckers. (well USED to).

    I should have video Sunday night of a test flight with dx6i in use on 36.

    B!

    Junk,
    Did you fix the the heli spinning (piro) problem? I'm pretty sure you all you need to do is reverse rudder channel on the radio.
    But if piros madly as soon as you power the the rotors and get worse with more power, then gyro needs reversing (as well).
    LOL - the swash set at 120, LOL that must have had you scratching your head! -Lucky I mentioned it!!

    cen1,
    your in for a hell of a time. I don't know about the 2008 ver, mine is like 2004 version!
    but if your going to be into models for at least a few years, the first thing I'd do is get a dx6i (or any half descend radio) and carefully follow how me and Junk are getting along closer to to setting it up for 'proper' flight. I've flown my #36 with stock electronics, but as soon I think Ive got all going cool, something (glitch? - me?) happens, and BANG SMASH, another $50 in parts are needed. The next thing I need is a gyro, then I should be sweet. Any crashes after that will HAVE to be me!

    < Message edited by Fugitive_Bill -- 9/27/2008 3:33:03 PM >

    (in reply to helifan06)
           Post #: 11401

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/27/2008 10:38:17 PM   
    helifan06



    Posts: 634
    Joined: 12/11/2006
    From: Warren, NJ, USA
    Status: offline     		When you buy crystals; for example for 72MHz PCM; what is the channel specification for ? 32, etc... isn't the frequency enough?? I don't know how to choose the crystal...

    (in reply to Fugitive_Bill)
           Post #: 11402

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/28/2008 1:47:07 AM   
    Junkz0r



    Posts: 81
    Joined: 6/25/2008
    From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
    Status: offline
    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Fugitive_Bill
    Junk,
    Did you fix the the heli spinning (piro) problem? I'm pretty sure you all you need to do is reverse rudder channel on the radio.
    But if piros madly as soon as you power the the rotors and get worse with more power, then gyro needs reversing (as well).
    LOL - the swash set at 120, LOL that must have had you scratching your head! -Lucky I mentioned it!!

    cen1,
    your in for a hell of a time. I don't know about the 2008 ver, mine is like 2004 version!
    but if your going to be into models for at least a few years, the first thing I'd do is get a dx6i (or any half descend radio) and carefully follow how me and Junk are getting along closer to to setting it up for 'proper' flight. I've flown my #36 with stock electronics, but as soon I think Ive got all going cool, something (glitch? - me?) happens, and BANG SMASH, another $50 in parts are needed. The next thing I need is a gyro, then I should be sweet. Any crashes after that will HAVE to be me!


    Hi Bill! After the test suggested by Chopchop the tail rotors are tracking in the right direction, I'm suspecting a gain adjustment or my radio settings are messed up.

    As a note Cen1, I totally agree with Bob regarding the #36. I bought mine 2nd hand (only crashed once) and the first thing I did was throw away the walkera radio gear, battery and motor as they are complete rubbish!

    My #36 now has a AR6200 2.4Ghz receiver (Spektrum DX6i radio), Tower Pro SG9 servo's for swash, a Telebee gyro plugged into a Hitec HS56-HB servo for rudder, Scorpion HK-2208-28 brushless motor, Tower Pro MAG8 ESC (which I think is a cheap chinese ripoff version) and some decent LiPo batteries.

    I played with a couple of the C'n'C alloy heads available for the #36 but while the same have slight differences but both are fairly cheap, low-grade units are generally more trouble than they're worth. I ended up making a hybrid using the stock head parts with only a couple of the alloy bits.

    Finally... Bill.. GO STORM!

    Junkz0r


    _____________________________

    Aussie! Aussie! Aussie!

    (in reply to Fugitive_Bill)
           Post #: 11403

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/28/2008 1:52:56 AM   
    Junkz0r



    Posts: 81
    Joined: 6/25/2008
    From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
    Status: offline
    quote:

    ORIGINAL: helifan06

    When you buy crystals; for example for 72MHz PCM; what is the channel specification for ? 32, etc... isn't the frequency enough?? I don't know how to choose the crystal...


    You must make sure the crystals you purchase are compatible with the transmitter and receiver you have. Also the 'channel' designation is simply an easy way to differentiate between crystals on a particular band. In America I think you use 72Mhz whereas here in Australia we're only allowed to use 36Mhz (or 2.4Ghz of course but crystals aren't needed for digital).

    The channel designation also lets others know what frequency you're flying on so you don't interfere with someone else's aircraft causing more often than not catastrophe for them and you. 2.4Ghz digital does not have this limitataion as they most use 'frequency hopping' technology.

    If you're new new I'd strongly suggest a DX6i, great value and gives you the inevitable introduction and experience with digital 'computer' radio's.

    Plus the DX6i can let you store up to 10 model configurations.


    _____________________________

    Aussie! Aussie! Aussie!

    (in reply to helifan06)
           Post #: 11404

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/28/2008 6:06:36 PM   
    helifan06



    Posts: 634
    Joined: 12/11/2006
    From: Warren, NJ, USA
    Status: offline     		crystals have high and low band; but I'm not sure if my TX is high band for low band.

    (in reply to Junkz0r)
           Post #: 11405

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/29/2008 5:00:07 AM   
    Fugitive_Bill


     

    Posts: 77
    Joined: 6/30/2005
    From: SydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
    Status: offline     		Anyone know how this white gear on the tail rotor is locked into place?
    There is no grub screw, seems it must have been pressed on.

    I'm so busy in my small test/work area trying not to let the main rotor whack anything (including my head)
    that I've whacked the tail a few times, and now the gear slips on the shaft whenever I apply rudder.

    So I all I've done is cleaned the gear and shaft up and CA'd it into place. But I can't see that lasting long.

    Again, I'm sure someone posted a fix in this massive thread about 2 years ago, but I can't find it.
    Any thoughts?

    B!

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    (in reply to helifan06)
           Post #: 11406

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/29/2008 7:40:11 AM   
    Junkz0r



    Posts: 81
    Joined: 6/25/2008
    From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
    Status: offline
    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Fugitive_Bill

    Anyone know how this white gear on the tail rotor is locked into place?
    There is no grub screw, seems it must have been pressed on.

    I'm so busy in my small test/work area trying not to let the main rotor whack anything (including my head)
    that I've whacked the tail a few times, and now the gear slips on the shaft whenever I apply rudder.

    So I all I've done is cleaned the gear and shaft up and CA'd it into place. But I can't see that lasting long.

    Again, I'm sure someone posted a fix in this massive thread about 2 years ago, but I can't find it.
    Any thoughts?

    B!


    Bill there's supposed to be a small steel pin that goes through the shaft and that belt cog sits over the pin. It's the same locking arrangement that the other end uses for the belt drive. As well as that tiny pin also use some CA on the shaft right near it to help lock the cog in place



    _____________________________

    Aussie! Aussie! Aussie!

    (in reply to Fugitive_Bill)
           Post #: 11407

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/29/2008 4:15:22 PM   
    Fugitive_Bill


     

    Posts: 77
    Joined: 6/30/2005
    From: SydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
    Status: offline
    quote:

    ORIGINAL: Junkz0r[/QUOTE]

    quote:


    Bill there's supposed to be a small steel pin that goes through the shaft and that belt cog sits over the pin. It's the same locking arrangement that the other end uses for the belt drive. As well as that tiny pin also use some CA on the shaft right near it to help lock the cog in place



    No, I think that pin goes through the shaft on the left hand side of the cog, NOT the cog itself.
    I've had a very close at the cog and there is no hole to slot pin through.
    The pin is there to stop the shaft exiting the housing when pitch is increased, as far as I can tell.

    We seem to have scared the Yanks away!

    B!


    (in reply to Junkz0r)
           Post #: 11408

    RE: Walkera Dragonfly #36 - 9/29/2008 4:47:47 PM   
    drobin


     

    Posts: 484
    Joined: 12/3/2005
    From: East Syracuse, NY, USA
    Status: online     		The cog is suppost to have a slit in it for the pin to sit in.Than ca it in place.This is how the cog is attached to the shaft.I had to make the slot in mine a little deeper for the pin to grab on to it.Just ca'ing the cog to the shaft will not hold.
    The yanks are still here.We just want to keep a low profile.

    (in reply to Fugitive_Bill)