RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0  
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Nitro Stadium Trucks >> RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0
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RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/28/2005 7:36:23 AM   
dicko



Posts: 2337
Joined: 2/4/2004
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Status: online 		people have put the battery box on the front. it will help stop wheelies, but increase wheel spin. it will give better control of the front through corners as long as you don't lose the back end which you are more likely to do with the weight up front & especially under braking. i left mine at the back & put a 5 cell recharge pack in there with a recharge jack on the on/off switch. I have been driving this truck both bashing & racing for about 2 years & never broken the battery box. i also dropped the height of the front of the car so that the front A arms are level and this helped heaps with stearing, it was to high on the stock settings. but if you are just bashing higher might be better.

_____________________________

The answer is always more power.

(in reply to khlept0)
       Post #: 26

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/28/2005 4:42:47 PM   
Thrasher187


 

Posts: 23
Joined: 7/13/2005
From: Wausau, WI, USA
Status: offline 		i have burned out my piston and sleeve, and am about to rebuild. I lost almost all compression. any tips on rebuilding? this is the DTX .18 motor. How many tanks do you guys get through a tank before the piston and sleeve need to be replaced. I know i leaned mine out too much at the race last weekend. Need to invest in a temp gun.(any suggestions there? i heard they can be off.)

_____________________________

when you hear hoof steps think zebras not horses

(in reply to khlept0)
       Post #: 27

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/28/2005 4:43:47 PM   
Thrasher187


 

Posts: 23
Joined: 7/13/2005
From: Wausau, WI, USA
Status: offline 		also any tips to lengthen the life of a piston and sleeve, i read a suggestion that after running put the piston to bottom dead center while cooling to leave the top open to shrink back.(metal expands when hot right?)

_____________________________

when you hear hoof steps think zebras not horses

(in reply to Thrasher187)
       Post #: 28

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/28/2005 8:03:13 PM   
yoster


 

Posts: 915
Joined: 2/13/2005
From: Fresno, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Its funny, for me the "dirty" break-in instructions were FAR more correct than the ones i got with the replacement engine. I completely disagree with their idea of richening it until it barely runs. Thats defeating the entire idea behind break-in. I personally prefer the "new" way where you run it 2-3 minutes on a barely rich needle setting, then let it cool for 10.. then keep doing it for a total of 20-30 minutes of engine run-time. Unfortunately, with my new engine, i broke it in with their new instructions. Which means it was running SO cold it was BARELY above 100 degrees for the first few tanke (like 109-115). Later of course i find out that this is a bad thing to do, and I can tell by the quicker decline in engine compression than my other engine.

As for final needle settings, my car wont even MOVE at 2 turns out. I HAVE to be 1 5/8 to 1 3/8 to see any kind of power and reach my optimal engine temp (I run between 220 and 260). At 2 turns out.. my engine runs at like 170 degrees and doesn't go anywhere. I am also at a very low altitude.. so I am assuming that most of the people here are running their Evaders at colder ambient temperatures.. thats the only way it would explain anyone needing a 2-out needle setting. Where I live, I run in a temperature of between 80 and 105 degrees farenheit. Colder it gets, the richer I set my needle.

< Message edited by yoster -- 7/28/2005 8:07:09 PM >

_____________________________

Savage X 4.6, Nitro Evader, rc10gt, various jets, Reach Whirlwind, Showtime 4d, reactor bipe, assent glider

(in reply to Thrasher187)
       Post #: 29

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/28/2005 8:09:43 PM   
yoster


 

Posts: 915
Joined: 2/13/2005
From: Fresno, CA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Thrasher187

also any tips to lengthen the life of a piston and sleeve, i read a suggestion that after running put the piston to bottom dead center while cooling to leave the top open to shrink back.(metal expands when hot right?)



Yes, that helps.. especially during break-in!

I also use Dynamite Blue Thunder After-Run Fuel instead of after run oil. The engine actually runs with it and protects it much better imo. Everyone at my local track that uses it has noticably longer engine life than those that don't.. usually 1-3 more gallons.

On a side-note.. has anyone tried the high-rate steering servo saver?

_____________________________

Savage X 4.6, Nitro Evader, rc10gt, various jets, Reach Whirlwind, Showtime 4d, reactor bipe, assent glider

(in reply to Thrasher187)
       Post #: 30

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/28/2005 11:26:11 PM   
dicko



Posts: 2337
Joined: 2/4/2004
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Status: online 		i run the Hitec HS-5925MG for steering, it's awesome. coreless digital. .08sec/60deg @ 6V and 127.7 oz of torque at 6V. i use this servo on my mugen MBX5 and my factory team B4 that i race too. it can also be programmed with it's own failsafe, but i haven't gone that far.

_____________________________

The answer is always more power.

(in reply to yoster)
       Post #: 31

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/29/2005 3:46:06 AM   
dpawl


 

Posts: 255
Joined: 7/16/2005
From: Manchester, NH, USA
Status: offline 		Wow... am I ever getting upset with my evader!
I have busted many parts, due to my fault I have been running on tar and just screwing off. Anyway, that is not the issue.
The issue is keeping it running. I am quite sure it has good compression as it runs amazing w/ throttle, pulls wheelies and definately has some pull back when I pull the recoil. My problem is this: LSN and throttle screw.
As far as I know from these threads, my LSN should be 1 1/2 turns out for default, and idle screw should be so the barrel in the carb is 2mm open. I have also heard that the LSN should be FLUSH with the outside brass sleeve, then turned IN 1/2 turn. Also, glow plugs are an issue. I have heard cold and hot plugs, and they vary upon the fuel used. I have 20% nitro, using Blue Thunder w/ ZX-7...supposed to prevent over-leaning. What type of plug should I be using with this?
So to recap, my questions are:
1) Where do I start w/ the LSN and idles and how can I easily check the gap in the carb?(what does 2mm look like!)
2) What type of plug should I be using?
3) How can I keep the damn car running while I try to adjust things? What is the proper order, LSN then idle? What should it sound like when I adjust the LSN, and then what should it sound like after the idle?

Sorry for all these questions, generally the same ones I have asked over and over. I am just sick of having to start it, run it, not be able to touch the brake and have it die. I have yet to run the damn truck w/ the body because I can't keep it running!

_____________________________

Savage X F4.6
Nitro Evader ST Hopped Up (Dead Motor... damn you DTX)

(in reply to dicko)
       Post #: 32

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/29/2005 5:59:44 AM   
dicko



Posts: 2337
Joined: 2/4/2004
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Status: online 		if your car runs fine at top end and accelerates OK, just wind the idle screw in a little to set the idle so it wont die when you pull back on the throttle. sometimes your caer will stall at idle if teh clutch is worn out & is engaging full time. when you hit the brakes it will stall the engine. when you start it lift the back wheels off the ground. if they are spinning when the car is idling your clutch is on the way out or gone.

adjust HSN, then LSN then idle.

for what fuel you are running i would suggest the OS #8 or OS A3 if you live in a moderate climate. this may change if you live in the desert or in the mountains. the more nitro you run, the colder plug you can run.

_____________________________

The answer is always more power.

(in reply to dpawl)
       Post #: 33

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/29/2005 2:10:16 PM   
dpawl


 

Posts: 255
Joined: 7/16/2005
From: Manchester, NH, USA
Status: offline 		Hmmm... well the car is only 3 weeks old, and not even 1/2 gallon through it. You think my clutch is already gone? The bell wiggles a bit at idle, but doesn't seem to be fully engaging. The engine sounds to be running a high idle, but runs like crap. I think that's why the bell shakes and why it dies. I think it needs a better mixture to run more reliable and then a lower idle to stop the engaging.

_____________________________

Savage X F4.6
Nitro Evader ST Hopped Up (Dead Motor... damn you DTX)

(in reply to dicko)
       Post #: 34

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/29/2005 2:12:03 PM   
dpawl


 

Posts: 255
Joined: 7/16/2005
From: Manchester, NH, USA
Status: offline
quote:

if they are spinning when the car is idling your clutch is on the way out or gone.

That would not be true if my idle is high just crappy mixture, right?

_____________________________

Savage X F4.6
Nitro Evader ST Hopped Up (Dead Motor... damn you DTX)

(in reply to dpawl)
       Post #: 35

RE: Official Nitro Evader ST Thread v2.0 - 7/29/2005 5:25:44 PM   
ross05



Posts: 29
Joined: 7/21/2005
From: billericay, UNITED KINGDOM
Status: offline 		ok thaks ill try emailing them <