Posts: 366
Joined: 12/3/2004 From: Hervey Bay, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Yeah, lots of us had this problem...............
If you read all one hundred and something pages of this thread you will find the solution
Hope you got plenty of time. LOL!!!!
Seriously, I can't remember what page it was on, but alot of us drilled through the U/C block in the retract and through the leg and put a bolt through the lot.
If you get the chance, read through this whole thread, you will find lots of useful hints and tips for this model.
Good Luck
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Aussie Bolts & Bits - Small fasteners for modelers
Posts: 1511
Joined: 9/22/2004 From: El Reno,
OK, USA Status: offline
Do yourself a favor and get some decent air retracts with solid struts. I have been getting mine ready to maiden and had nothing but trouble with the stock retracts and the recommended JR servos didn't solve any problems . Just added a new one. Won't work with my 6volt regulated lipo RX system. Went with a dedicated 4.8 for gear and still had a Junior (JR) servo lockup and fry.
Used SpringAir 400 series 1/2 dia inserts with Robart 1/2 Offset struts. Almost a drop-in job.
Posts: 487
Joined: 1/13/2006 From: Mead, CO, USA Status: offline
You can drill and tap a hole in the retract unit to put a set screw in but I'll tell you the easiest way to deal with it. Open up the retract strut hole by taking a flat blade and spreading it apart slightly. Take a thin piece of paper strip and wrap the strut end one time. Take some CA to hold the paper to the strut. Place the strut into the retract and cinch it down and it won't move on you. I tapped one of my struts and used the paper method on the other one and neither has moved. The paper solution is much easier than drilling and tapping a hole.
I will also say that everyone seemed down on the struts provided by H9 but mine have been rock solid.
The other critical mod in my opinion is some down thrust in the motor (one washer) or make sure you have about 1/8" down elevator at nuetral stick on maiden. Every one of these I have seen maiden required max down trim to even come close to level flight.
Good luck, Jerry.
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Longmont Aircraft Modelers Association Longmont, CO visit our site at www.lamarcclub.com
Posts: 18
Joined: 5/18/2002 From: Frisco,
TX, USA Status: offline
Thanks to you guys that replied so quickly. I read the entire forum before I started, but I did not remember seeing anything about loose struts. aaaathank again.
Posts: 189
Joined: 4/1/2004 From: Meriden,
CT, USA Status: offline
Hey flaviosi.... you should be able to get the bullet hole decals at any auto parts store in the decals section. That's where I picked mine up. SOme of the department stores also carry them. I once got a set at Target department store.
Posts: 174
Joined: 8/15/2006 From: , MT, USA Status: offline
I remember that somebody fiberglassed and painted this airplane and had pretty good results. I was wondering how hard it would be to do this after I put it together stock and fly it this summer. I think that scaling it out with inner doors, good retracts, big wheels, retractable tailwheel, and other things would be a fun project next winter. Would this be possible?
Posts: 366
Joined: 12/3/2004 From: Hervey Bay, AUSTRALIA Status: offline
Slowglowflyer,
I flew my P-47 in stock plastic for 2 years, then did a make over.
Added bigger main wheels, retractable tail wheel & doors, better dumy radial, cockpit kit and glassed it adding panel lines, access hatches and some rivet detail. She it now painted in a scheme from New Guinea in 1943.
Only added 20oz for the whole make over, not bad including 2 extra servos, the tail wheel retract, glass and paint.
The attached photos were taken just before the post make over test flight.
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Aussie Bolts & Bits - Small fasteners for modelers
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming from Hangar 9 
RE: New 81" P-47 ARF coming ... - 
