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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/9/2005 2:29:56 PM   
bps



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Here are some progress pictures. I have decided to spend the extra money and use a polyurethane glue instead of the Tightbond aphelic resin glue. The foaming polyurethane glue seems to penitrate the wood better and provide a stronger bond in this application. The foaming action of the glue fills gaps as well. I know the foam provides no structural bond, but it does fill gaps and thin in itself must be stronger than an air gap. The brand I am using is Elmer's, only because that is what I have on hand. The bond is very strong. I am fitting and glueing the 1/4" luan plywood sides to the framework. I am using temporary rigging to support the walls of the trailer and keep them straight until the glue sets. Camps and brads from my new battery operated nailer keeps the wood in contact until the glue cures. If the wood is not held in contact using some form of pressure then the foaming action of the glue will just push the wood parts apart and a poor bond results. I will let the clamps stay on for 12 hours to asure a strong bond.

More latter,

JEB

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< Message edited by bps -- 8/10/2005 4:41:46 PM >



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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/9/2005 2:41:28 PM   
bps



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I wanted to mention a couple of things about the foaming Polyurethane glues. It takes a small amount of glue applied to the joint to result in a good glue joint. This stuff will foam like you will not belive. If you decide to use it, practice first. You can control the foaming action of the glue to some degree by the amout of moisture in the wood you are glueing toghether. If you live in a very dry climate you will need to wet one side of the wood to be glued and place glue on the other. I live in a very humid climate so the wood generaly has a high moisture content. That means I do not need to add additional water to the wood. I place a small bead of glue on each surface to be glued and clamp, nail or mechanicaly hold together the two surfaces for 6 hours or so. If the surface to be glued is rather wide I use a scrap of wood to spread the glue for better coverage. I have found that these glues have some great advantages in model construction as well.

Hope this is informative,

Latter

JEB

< Message edited by bps -- 8/10/2005 4:42:43 PM >



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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/9/2005 3:29:32 PM   
mirwin


 

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JEB,

It's shaping up to be a nice looking trailer.

I've been following your project, but I don't recall if you mentioned this before: After you finish the construction, how do you plan to seal the outside and inside to prevent rot?


Mike

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/9/2005 4:49:42 PM   
bps



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The completed wood box will be removed from the trailer frame and given sealing coats of latex primer. Then the entire box will be coated with outdoor latex, not sure of colors yet.

Thanks

JEB

< Message edited by bps -- 8/9/2005 4:50:05 PM >



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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/12/2005 5:34:27 PM   
Blackie



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Been away for awhile and happened in on this trailer build. Some of you may already know that I built mine back in 2003 but thought I would go ahead and chime in here.

I have a couple of projects that I completed through the years of 2003 and 2004, one being a Trailer and other a Workshop both of them are displayed here on this web site.

http://home.earthlink.net/~r.blackstock

Just click on the link stating my projects and the menu on the left has both projects.

Blackie


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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/13/2005 12:02:52 AM   
the-plumber


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: bps
The completed wood box will be removed from the trailer frame and given sealing coats of latex primer.


It would be even more weather (water) resistant if you sealed it with thinned epoxy and then painted it.

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/13/2005 2:36:16 AM   
Forgues Research



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Interesting, here is how I did mine sometime ago.

trailer build

Roger

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/13/2005 5:58:11 AM   
bps



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Nice looking projects all.

Aerografixs, looks like the "boss" thought you were building him or her a great big fancy rolling dog house. Looks like a fine way to build a trailer.

I just finished the bottom of the box on my trailer this pm. Now on to the top part and trying to decide which way the top will open. I am thinking about having it hinged at the front and tilt forward to open. I saw one last week at the flying field that opened from the left side of the trailer with the top hinged along the right side. Tommorow is Saturday and I plan on working on it as much as possible. May get a good start on the top. Pics to follow.

JEB


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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/13/2005 4:04:12 PM   
bps



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I have finished the bottom part of the trailer box. I have started on the top and am trying to decide just how it will open. I plan on visiting an RV place today to get some ideas. One thought I have is to hinge the top so that to open it I would pull it backwards and up. Aluminum stilts would support this action and the top would then become a nice little tent for shade. The top would move up 24" and back 40". Light weight construction would make the weight shift minimal. I still need to run some weight calculations to see if my thinking is correct. Any thoughts?

JEB

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/14/2005 10:34:09 PM   
daveopam



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Is it going to be a low profile top? Or is the part you have built only half of the storage? If the top is to be 6" or less. Look at car hood hinges. Like the ones on the mid 90's Buicks. The hood on those would move 6" forward and then stand straight up from the grill. This would work great for easy access to the whole box.

David

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/15/2005 4:35:59 AM   
mirwin


 

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Thinking out of the box (pun intended), you could hinge one side and hang wings on the underside of the top. Arrange the hinges so that the top will swing in a 180° arc. In other words, swing the top up and over the side; use those stilts to hold the top parallel with the ground. That would provide a lot of shade for your planes.

Just an idea.


Mike

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/22/2005 2:20:22 AM   
DUMB THUM



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I have been watching and waiting! You are doing great, I know it's time to fly and not build but you got my hooked I need to see more!

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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 8/22/2005 12:28:58 PM   
bps



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Thanks for all of the encouragement and ideas on the lid. I have been busy doing "honey do" things getting the house ready for winter and attending a couple of flying events. I think that I have just about settled on a 24" tall top with wing storage as someone suggested. I saw a triler at a fly in that used this method and it seems to work out just perfect. I am leaning toward the top being hinged at the front with a lifting hinge that would let the front of the top lift up about 12" when moved forward. Then the rear of the top would be held up about 30" by lifting ratchet stilts much like you would see on a open tent. I am thinking of the open tents we comonly use to set under when at modeling events. The wings could sit on a light weight shelf, hinged at the front so that it could lift upward and snap into the top. Not sure about all of the details yet, but this is along the lines I am considering.

JEB


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RE: Step by Step Trailer Build - 9/8/2005 2:43:27 AM   
76.ta



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Here is the one I made a fe