RE: Byron P-47 build.... (Full Version)

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cknaack -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/6/2005 2:25:49 AM)

Jerry,

My Byron P-47 weighed in at 23 lbs with a Q-50 and the Purr Power muffler and Mount.

If you are looking to duplicate the plug in wing setup, try this link to Sig. Look for the aluminum tube wing joiner. I will be using this setup for a 3 piece wing modification for the Ziroli Corsair.

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig

Regards

Craig



jdeluyck -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/6/2005 3:57:15 AM)

Craig,

Thanks for the information on the weight. A wing tube will not work for my application, due to the polyhedral angle I am using. What is the thickness of the wing joiners?

Regards,
Jerry



mr.scale -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/6/2005 6:31:01 AM)

I guess i'll have to get a wardbird when i move to Texas and this is a cool one!! good job!!
Fernando



cknaack -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/9/2005 2:55:50 AM)

Jerry,

It is called a tube, but it is not. It is identical to the Byron plug-in setup. The web page lists the dimensions. They come 2 per pack.

Regards

Craig



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/12/2005 5:55:39 AM)

ok, stabs have been cut out, trimmed and temporarily hinged.

Then the hinge covers to hid the hinges and close the gap are installed. I had a bit of a hard time with this because with the covers the way they were I could not get any movement out of the elevators. I had to trim back the edge about 1/8" to get proper opperating movement out of it.

I cut out the rear gear doors so I can get access to the inside for the next step.

A couple of male plastic pegs are installed in the stab then the female plug is installed in the fuse. I mounted the stab then glued the plug from inside of the fuse with aeropoxy.

The plug in for the elevators is made from the Delron rings and plugs. These are just temp installed but I'm not to keen on how its looking. There is a lot of stuff that'll be sticking in the hollowed out rudder. Byron had used a servo mounted in the tail but I want to mount mine up front so I think this is going to take some time to get it right. Taking the 2 oz for the servo and 1 oz for the counter balance out, with aprox 3:1 movement ratio, would mean I can save 1/2 lb off the nose.

Rudder gets cut out and brass & aluminum tubes are used for the hinging. The rudder post gets installed in the fuse to make it solid.

After the last post, I started with the finishing of the aileron and flaps. Because this kit has been around for such a long time its been handled and banged around many times I'm sure. As a result when the outboard ply supports were installed you can clearly see how much the foam has been compressed or chipped away. So what I did was get some expanding foam in a can, the kind that only expands a couple times it original size, and sprayed it on the trailing edge to fill in the gap. Once it's dried, sand to original shape and fill with light weight spakel. You'd never know the difference.

If any one who has built this could give me some advice or pictures on how they finished the rudder.

Kelvin.



gary9648 -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/12/2005 4:28:20 PM)

Goggles, I have built many Byron models over the years as a professional builder. I still have four of them myself. I have not built the 47 though. Was not out very long. I do not understand this, because I was told by the Byron staff many tiime that it was one of there best war bird fliers. As to how to finish the rudder, is quite simple. Just cover it with 1 and 1/2 oz. cloth and Zap finishing resin, or any expoxy finishing resin you perfer. Then just fill the weave and paint along with the rest of the aircraft. I believe that kit was designed around the Quadra 50 with the purr power system. If you have the purr power muffler, please use it. the model will sound really great.
good luck with the P-47
Gary Webb



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/13/2005 1:52:02 AM)

Gary,

Thanks for the advice but after rereading what I wrote I guess I was not anywhere clear on what I was asking.

What I should have said is I can not figure out how to create the proper hole in the rudder to enable it to turn properly and yet clear the elevator linkage and at the same time be hidden. As you can see from the one picture the elevator linkage sticks into the rudder quite a bit and it's very close to the edge. This is where you have to make a hollow hole in the rudder for this stuff to hide. I may have to trim quite a bit of the rudder for the linkage to clear the inside. I was hoping someone would have a picture of how they did it. I'll work on it some more and if I get it wrong, I can always fill up the mistake with foam and start over.

Thanks.



cknaack -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/13/2005 3:17:00 AM)

Kelvin,

Here are a few pictures of the rudder cutout. My bird has the Purr-Power muffler/mount and the Quadra 50 as Gary mentioned. All of my surfaces are covered in 3/4 oz. cloth and Anchor Bond 30-150 epoxy resin. Once you use this resin, you will never go back to the Zap finishing resin. Don't get me wrong, Zap is good stuff, but IMO, Anchor Bond is much better. It produces a very light finish with little extra effort in the way of scraping or blotting resin after application. Don't worry about saving weight in the tail. I have the standard counter weight and a JR 4721 in the tail, and I had to add a few ounces near the tail wheel access to get the balance spot on. You can see the painted button heads holding the weight in one of the photos.[;)]

Good luck, and keep us up to date on your progress!

Regards

Craig



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/13/2005 5:46:50 AM)

Craig, that is EXACTLY what I was looking for! I did not realize I had to cut so much away to make the rudder work, or shall I say I didn't want to cut that much away but I guess I have to.

I have no idea what kind of engine that came with this thing, some say it's a sacks 4.2 but I'm not sure. I also need to find an adapter or a hub for the front that has the magnet in it for the timing. It came with a 3 blade but I've heard of those blades flexing and some breaking so I want to go with a 2 blade wood prop. Any one know where I can get that adapter?


How about a pic of the rest of the plane Craig?



mr.scale -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/13/2005 8:20:37 PM)

Hi Kelvin
is that a electronic ignition set up or magneto? these guys may have your answer http://www.macs-rc.com



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/14/2005 1:55:38 AM)

Fernando, it's electronic ignition.

Thanks for the link but this isn't a converted engine.



cknaack -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/14/2005 2:00:16 AM)

Kelvin,

Follow this link to RC Warbirds to see a shot of the P-47.

http://www.rcwarbirds.com/craigsp47page.htm

let me know if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to help.

Regards

Craig



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/14/2005 2:09:21 AM)

Sweet!!!, and I see you even have the right shirt on [;)]



ramcfarland -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/14/2005 9:43:11 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: gary9648

Goggles, I have built many Byron models over the years as a professional builder. I still have four of them myself. I have not built the 47 though. Was not out very long. I do not understand this, because I was told by the Byron staff many tiime that it was one of there best war bird fliers. As to how to finish the rudder, is quite simple. Just cover it with 1 and 1/2 oz. cloth and Zap finishing resin, or any expoxy finishing resin you perfer. Then just fill the weave and paint along with the rest of the aircraft. I believe that kit was designed around the Quadra 50 with the purr power system. If you have the purr power muffler, please use it. the model will sound really great.
good luck with the P-47
Gary Webb
Good advise let me add/suggest AFTER 2 coats of Zap's finishing resin;removing each coats excess resin using 'playing cards,' the Ace works great[:D] Now prime/fill the fiber glass weave quickly and completely --> with one maybe two coats Dupont MASON brand 2 part urethane paint ,which is available at most auto paint stores. Trust me its the best (2 part polyurethane ..)

Looking forward to seeing this one finished [8D]



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/15/2005 4:41:34 AM)

I've used Zpoxy finishing resin for years and am pretty happy how my projects have turned out. On the first coat I mix in about 50% alcohol to lessen the amount absorbed in to the surface.

Here's a some of the past projects I did this way.

Thanks for the advice guys [8D]



Connery -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/15/2005 3:04:32 PM)

WOAH!! That Lancer is SWEET :) It it from available plans or did you design it yourself? What engine is in it? Got any more pics?? [:D]



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (12/16/2005 4:07:46 AM)

Well, it's not a P-47 but a request is a request. I changed it from pusher to tractor due to the lack of prop clearance at the rear. It crashed on take off and I do plan on rebuilding it some day.....some day.

Here ya go:



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (1/16/2006 5:12:48 AM)

Well I bought a couple of guitars and started taking lessons so this hasn't come along as quick as I thought but doing other things from time to time keeps me from getting burn out from the planes.

I finally figured out the rudder and have the proper area cut out inside and it opperates smoothly. I glued in the rudder hinge post, put the tail wheel together and temp installed it. I just have to make the gear doors operational now.


CRAIG, how did you install the rudder servo? From what they have in the instructions it's a pull pull rudder but where the servo is installed it's offset to the side because the flap servo is centered. I'm thinking of moving the servo above the rest so it can be centered for the rudder. I'd appreciate knowledge in what you did.

Thanks,

Kelvin.



samparfitt -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (1/16/2006 1:12:27 PM)

The rudder cutout on mine is 1 1/16" long and it's not really noticable.



cknaack -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (1/17/2006 3:28:05 AM)

Kelvin,

My rudder servo is mounted in the position as called for in the instructions. Both rudder pushrods are contained in tubes. You also need to consider the offset required for the tail wheel steering. IMO, the stock position works great.

Regards

Craig



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (2/1/2006 5:56:23 AM)

ok, here's the last couple of weeks worth of work.

I decided to sand the fuse while it was in 2 parts. It made handling 2 smaller pieces easier than 1 large fuse. I used 180 then used a scotch brite red pad, they work very well for scuffing up the area. I also decided to fill in the joint seam along the center line as I go.

For the rudder I made another set of servo railes higher up into the fuse. I centered the rudder servo for the pull/pull and I placed the elevator servo there also. I'm using a carbon rod running back to the elevator to save the tail weight. I have a brace in the middle of the fuse for the rod to run through so there isn't any flex. It should be strong enough, it's not like I'll be 3Ding this thing.

I then broke out the Hysol and started gluing. I always end up wasting some glue from the tube so I try and do a bunch of gluing all at the same time to minimize waste. Servo rails, elevator support and the fuse halves were glued together........I hope I didn't forget anything, too late now.



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (2/16/2006 5:49:41 AM)

Fill and sand......fill and sand.....fill and sand, my favorite part of a build [8|].

No much to report, just using feather lite bondo to get rid of the joint line followed up by scratch filler for a nice smooth surface. The fuse is close to being ready for primer.

Does any one know where I can buy a cockpit kit for the 47? I sure would like to use something a little nicer than the one that came with the kit.



ccostant -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (2/16/2006 5:08:44 PM)

Hi Goggles,

I've been following your thread since I'm in the process of putting together a Byron P-51 I picked up on RCU. I'm almost at the same point in the build as you are with the P-47. I had a couple of questions. Did you use Hysol epoxy to join the front and rear fuselage sections? Are you planning on glassing them together as well (on the inside)? Also, what is the lite bondo you are using as a filler?

Thanks,

Carl



warbird-RCU -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (2/16/2006 11:33:37 PM)

You can use a Aerotech P47 cockpit in the Byron kit. I think I have one if your interested. Thanks Donzie



Goggles -> RE: Byron P-47 build.... (2/17/2006 6:43:50 AM)

CARL, I did use the Hysol / aeropoxy to join the two halves together. I did not use a strip of glass on the inside because there is already about a 2" lip to hold them together. I just sanded the inside with 80 grit paper then cleaned it up with alcohol and went to town with the Hysol. I even used it as a gap filler for the joint, it's great stuff.

I included a pic of the filler materials I use, plus the Hysol application and you can see the lip and coverage.

DONZIE, Thanks for the info on aerotech, looks like they have lots of accessories for the kit.


Does anyone know of a good web site that has all the 47's color schemes? I'm not so sure I want to do the one with the checkers on the tail......I always loose at checkers.[8D]



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