RE: Byron P-47 build....  
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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/6/2005 2:25:49 AM   
cknaack


 

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From: Arlington Heights, IL,
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Jerry,

My Byron P-47 weighed in at 23 lbs with a Q-50 and the Purr Power muffler and Mount.

If you are looking to duplicate the plug in wing setup, try this link to Sig. Look for the aluminum tube wing joiner. I will be using this setup for a 3 piece wing modification for the Ziroli Corsair.

http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig

Regards

Craig

(in reply to jdeluyck)
       Post #: 26

RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/6/2005 3:57:15 AM   
jdeluyck



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From: Hickory, NC, USA
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Craig,

Thanks for the information on the weight. A wing tube will not work for my application, due to the polyhedral angle I am using. What is the thickness of the wing joiners?

Regards,
Jerry

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       Post #: 27

RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/6/2005 6:31:01 AM   
mr.scale



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From: Harlingen, TX, USA
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I guess i'll have to get a wardbird when i move to Texas and this is a cool one!! good job!!
Fernando

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/9/2005 2:55:50 AM   
cknaack


 

Posts: 427
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Jerry,

It is called a tube, but it is not. It is identical to the Byron plug-in setup. The web page lists the dimensions. They come 2 per pack.

Regards

Craig

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       Post #: 29

RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/12/2005 5:55:39 AM   
Goggles



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From: Abbotsford, BC, CANADA
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ok, stabs have been cut out, trimmed and temporarily hinged.

Then the hinge covers to hid the hinges and close the gap are installed. I had a bit of a hard time with this because with the covers the way they were I could not get any movement out of the elevators. I had to trim back the edge about 1/8" to get proper opperating movement out of it.

I cut out the rear gear doors so I can get access to the inside for the next step.

A couple of male plastic pegs are installed in the stab then the female plug is installed in the fuse. I mounted the stab then glued the plug from inside of the fuse with aeropoxy.

The plug in for the elevators is made from the Delron rings and plugs. These are just temp installed but I'm not to keen on how its looking. There is a lot of stuff that'll be sticking in the hollowed out rudder. Byron had used a servo mounted in the tail but I want to mount mine up front so I think this is going to take some time to get it right. Taking the 2 oz for the servo and 1 oz for the counter balance out, with aprox 3:1 movement ratio, would mean I can save 1/2 lb off the nose.

Rudder gets cut out and brass & aluminum tubes are used for the hinging. The rudder post gets installed in the fuse to make it solid.

After the last post, I started with the finishing of the aileron and flaps. Because this kit has been around for such a long time its been handled and banged around many times I'm sure. As a result when the outboard ply supports were installed you can clearly see how much the foam has been compressed or chipped away. So what I did was get some expanding foam in a can, the kind that only expands a couple times it original size, and sprayed it on the trailing edge to fill in the gap. Once it's dried, sand to original shape and fill with light weight spakel. You'd never know the difference.

If any one who has built this could give me some advice or pictures on how they finished the rudder.

Kelvin.

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/12/2005 4:28:20 PM   
gary9648


 

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Goggles, I have built many Byron models over the years as a professional builder. I still have four of them myself. I have not built the 47 though. Was not out very long. I do not understand this, because I was told by the Byron staff many tiime that it was one of there best war bird fliers. As to how to finish the rudder, is quite simple. Just cover it with 1 and 1/2 oz. cloth and Zap finishing resin, or any expoxy finishing resin you perfer. Then just fill the weave and paint along with the rest of the aircraft. I believe that kit was designed around the Quadra 50 with the purr power system. If you have the purr power muffler, please use it. the model will sound really great.
good luck with the P-47
Gary Webb

(in reply to Goggles)
       Post #: 31

RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/13/2005 1:52:02 AM   
Goggles



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Gary,

Thanks for the advice but after rereading what I wrote I guess I was not anywhere clear on what I was asking.

What I should have said is I can not figure out how to create the proper hole in the rudder to enable it to turn properly and yet clear the elevator linkage and at the same time be hidden. As you can see from the one picture the elevator linkage sticks into the rudder quite a bit and it's very close to the edge. This is where you have to make a hollow hole in the rudder for this stuff to hide. I may have to trim quite a bit of the rudder for the linkage to clear the inside. I was hoping someone would have a picture of how they did it. I'll work on it some more and if I get it wrong, I can always fill up the mistake with foam and start over.

Thanks.

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/13/2005 3:17:00 AM   
cknaack


 

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Kelvin,

Here are a few pictures of the rudder cutout. My bird has the Purr-Power muffler/mount and the Quadra 50 as Gary mentioned. All of my surfaces are covered in 3/4 oz. cloth and Anchor Bond 30-150 epoxy resin. Once you use this resin, you will never go back to the Zap finishing resin. Don't get me wrong, Zap is good stuff, but IMO, Anchor Bond is much better. It produces a very light finish with little extra effort in the way of scraping or blotting resin after application. Don't worry about saving weight in the tail. I have the standard counter weight and a JR 4721 in the tail, and I had to add a few ounces near the tail wheel access to get the balance spot on. You can see the painted button heads holding the weight in one of the photos.

Good luck, and keep us up to date on your progress!

Regards

Craig

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/13/2005 5:46:50 AM   
Goggles



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Craig, that is EXACTLY what I was looking for! I did not realize I had to cut so much away to make the rudder work, or shall I say I didn't want to cut that much away but I guess I have to.

I have no idea what kind of engine that came with this thing, some say it's a sacks 4.2 but I'm not sure. I also need to find an adapter or a hub for the front that has the magnet in it for the timing. It came with a 3 blade but I've heard of those blades flexing and some breaking so I want to go with a 2 blade wood prop. Any one know where I can get that adapter?


How about a pic of the rest of the plane Craig?

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< Message edited by Goggles -- 12/13/2005 5:51:53 AM >


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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/13/2005 8:20:37 PM   
mr.scale



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From: Harlingen, TX, USA
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Hi Kelvin
is that a electronic ignition set up or magneto? these guys may have your answer http://www.macs-rc.com

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/14/2005 1:55:38 AM   
Goggles



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Fernando, it's electronic ignition.

Thanks for the link but this isn't a converted engine.

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/14/2005 2:00:16 AM   
cknaack


 

Posts: 427
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Kelvin,

Follow this link to RC Warbirds to see a shot of the P-47.

http://www.rcwarbirds.com/craigsp47page.htm

let me know if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to help.

Regards

Craig

(in reply to Goggles)
       Post #: 37

RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/14/2005 2:09:21 AM   
Goggles



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Sweet!!!, and I see you even have the right shirt on

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RE: Byron P-47 build.... - 12/14/2005 9:43:11 PM   
ramcfarland



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From: Waldorf , MD, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: gary9648

Goggles, I have built many Byron models over the years as a professional builder. I still have four of them myself. I have not built the 47 though. Was not out very long. I do not understand this, because I was told by the Byron staff many tiime that it was one of there best war bird fliers. As to how to finish the rudder, is quite simple. Just cover it with 1 and 1/2 oz. cloth and Zap finishing resin, or any expoxy finishing resin you perfer. Then just fill the weave and paint along with the rest of the aircraft. I believe that kit was designed around the Quadra 50 with the purr power system. If you have the purr power muffler, please use it. the model will sound really great.
good luck with the P-47
Gary Webb
Good advise let me add/suggest AFTER 2 coats of Zap's finishing resin;removing each coats excess resin using 'playing cards,' the Ace works great Now prime/fill the fiber glass weave quickly and completely --> with one maybe two coats Dupont MASON brand 2 part urethane paint ,which is available at most auto paint stores. Trust me its the best (2 part polyurethane ..)

Looking forward to seeing this one finished

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Fast Richard

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