Tubig, With all respect a cave man can spray paint with the right equipment and expensive :the set up is not------------- dependent on price and availability of the 'compressor' for your 'airbrush set. The Paasche VL-SET AIRBRUSH SET NO. 69181 is the one you want trust me on this one
< Message edited by ramcfarland -- 10/9/2006 2:56:37 PM >
thanks for the advice richard, i really do appreciate it. however, i don't think it's the equipment that's my problem but rather my lack of skill and technique. i'm using a Badger 150 airbrush and a larger automotive touch-up gun. i built lots of plastic models as a kid but always painted with a bristle brush never using air. what i need is about 10 arf's to practice painting before shooting the 109 but i guess i'll do as with all of my models and use the current one as practice and say to myself "i'll do better on the next one". thanks again.
Posts: 1448
Joined: 2/2/2002 From: Lakeside, AZ, USA Status: offline
Tubig I know exactly how you feel, I have the equiptment I just don't have the touch. I can spray gun bowder and oil streaks but that is about it. I got the Spitty painted and waiting for my stencil from Gary. I will post pic latter to day. Rich
busy day in the shop. first off did some work on the carb intake. this follows the same lost foam method i've been using so i'll pass on the description and just show the progress. one thing to mention, since there is actually a small cutout in the cowl to allow for the forwardmost part of the air intake i had to add a small piece of balsa to provide a base.
pics 3-4: the intake on the prototype comes as two parts. i've made it as one piece for now and will separate them later. to give the forward piece a little more strength i added a couple more pieces of cloth after the initial piece had dried. one thing i tried here was to use artist's spray adhesive to help make the cloth stick to the form and aid in getting a sharper corner. the cloth sticks good until the epoxy is applied, then i seems to lose it's grip but it still worked out ok.
while the epoxy was curing on the air intake i worked on the exhaust stacks. i believe i mentioned way back that i got an idea from Tom Hunt on his 109 build about using heat shrink over a form. well i finally finished up forming all of the stacks.
pic 2-4: then i made some cutouts in a balsa sheet to accept the stacks.
pic 5: what i really like about this is how the stacks remain open helping to remove hot air from the engine compartment.
pic 6: you'll notice that i have only 5 stacks per side. the 6th stack will be different in that it will house a magnet to hold it in place making it removable. that's so i can access the cowl attachment screw. more on that tomorrow.
Posts: 292
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: LUGOJ, , ROMANIA Status: offline
Hello Steve!
I'm interested in building Me 109 and I saw this photo posted by you. I'd like to know more details about the extension device used on your engine. If you can, please send me,or post a closer photo or a sketch about how its made. Thanks in advance and sorry for my not so good english!
now for the 6th exhaust stub. to put a magnet in it i first partially filled the stack with epoxy/balloons.
pic 2-3: then i trimmed the stack to lie in position with the others, glued on the magnet and added a toothpick alignment peg. finally a 3/4" sheet steel square was epoxied to the back of the balsa base.
pic 4: finished piece.
(sorry, pics didn't upload first time around)
< Message edited by tubig -- 10/12/2006 6:31:21 AM >
Posts: 292
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: LUGOJ, , ROMANIA Status: offline
Hello Tubig!
A great job on your E-type
Lot of interestig solutions and new ( for me ) tehniques, used by you in building Your Bf.
I have a G-6 allredy done ,with a couple of flights.
Since I visit first time this forum , discover every time a new tehniqe, another mode to resolve the problems. Guys like you ( thanks alot ! ) who have the time and patience to share their skills and tehniques!
In time I changed my vew, in building ( scratch ) ,thanks to all the guys meet here on this forum.
Please take a look to my G-6 posts on this forum ( with not so much expanations along the construction period.....had no permanent NET connection ).
yes, jimmy i have been through your thread. a very nice 109! i think i may have even posted there but can't remember off the top of my head. anyway, i like trying new things to see what works and what doesn't . thanks for looking in and enjoying the build with me.
added a couple of panels to the top of the fuse forward of the canopy. BT recommends lithoplate, i chose Flite-Metal. to get the right shape for the FM i marked the shape of the panel on the fuse and transferred it to some tracing paper.
pic 2-3: after checking it fit correctly i used it to cut out the FM. one of the nice things about FM is it's malleability. i was able to trim an edge of the vent cutouts and then stretch the FM to cover the vent. however, i did have a problem with wrinkling in a couple of spots. in hindsight, i believe what i should have done (and what i'll do next time) is to outline the area i want covered with tape, lay down an oversized piece of FM and then trim to the tape. i think that way will help prevent wrinkles since i don't have to make the FM line up with marked lines.
Posts: 1406
Joined: 1/7/2002 From: MONTEBELLO, CA, USA Status: offline
Hi Tubig
Looks awsome. The header idea looks like a good one. Will CA. stick to it to create a weld seam?? If the "E" had that detail.
JimmyM,
The extension shaft is just a 1" dia piece of scrap hex alum, turned round on lathe,( exept for small section of the hex to put wrench on for tightening ) drilled and tapped to fit engine shaft, and prop/spinner/ backplate support is the same shaft size and thread as original engine shaft.
If you need more info, please pm me and I'll send pics of it to you some how.
Posts: 1097
Joined: 3/31/2002 From: chicago,
IL, USA Status: offline
Well, as much as I love checking in on the thread everyday, I have to admit that it's a little excruciating Tubig....I'm just soooo anxious to see you paint the plane now!!! I'm sure you've got to be getting to the point where you're excited to make all this great detail come to life with color as well. Really going to be a nice plane you've got here. All the surface detail will be spectacular. Keep it up man...It's a pleasure checking in each day to see your progress on her.
Looks awsome. The header idea looks like a good one. Will CA. stick to it to create a weld seam?? If the "E" had that detail.
thanks steve. yeah, i liked the idea that's why i borrowed it from Tom Hunt on his 109 build. as for a weld seam, i've looked very closely at the photos i have of 109's and there is a seam but it is difficult to see so, at this scale, i'm not going to duplicate it as i think it would be overkill. i do know ca will stick as that's what's holding the stacks in now (just tacked in place). you could always sand them with a fine grit to allow ca or white glue to stick since they'll be painted anyway. thanks for looking in!
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: BT Bf109E-4 
RE: BT Bf109E-4 - 
and expensive :the set up is not------------- dependent on price and availability of the 'compressor' for your 'airbrush set. The Paasche VL-SET AIRBRUSH SET NO. 69181 is the one you want trust me on this one 
. thanks for looking in and enjoying the build with me.
I'm sure you've got to be getting to the point where you're excited to make all this great detail come to life with color as well. Really going to be a nice plane you've got here. All the surface detail will be spectacular. Keep it up man...It's a pleasure checking in each day to see your progress on her.