added some small details beginning with some inspection covers and hatches made from aluminum tape. if you look closely on the right side by the cockpit area you can also see where i tried to simulate the cowl latches by scribing them into the flitemetal. i'm not really convinced that the detail will not be covered up by the primer so i may go back a redo them with .010" plastic. i'll wait to see how they stand up to the primer first. also, i needed some small half round to simulate the oil cover hinge which i don't have on hand so may just use some very small wire for that.
pic 2: before adding panels and hatches to the rear fuselage i first marked out the panel lines using a crossbeam laser.
pic 3: couple more panels.
pic 4: to simulate the screws i used sharpened brass tube and a 1.4mm jeweler's screwdriver pressed into the aluminum tape to simulate the straight head.
i was unsure the best way to simulate the panel that covers the horizontal stab's incedence adjusting slot so i thought i'd try flitemetal. unfortunately, i think i was asking too much from the flitemetal as it had to really stretch to cover the fin/fuselage junction and, as you can see, it didn't quite make it without splitting. and i was only doing one side at a time. here is what i have at the moment. i may remove it and go with a primered panel instead.
Posts: 268
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: LUGOJ, , ROMANIA Status: online
Hello Tubig! I think, that, primering the panel, is a better choice. You can better control, the thikness of the panel, to obtain a more scale-like effect. My opinion Keep on so! A great job till now!
thanks jimmy! you may be right about using the primer method. i'm thinking of trying it one more time (on the other side) to see if i can get better results. if not, then i'll pull it out and go with primer. thanks for the post.
Posts: 1364
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
I'm trying to remember the Platt video, but I think he did his hatch and hinge details with aluminuum tape as a last step after adding the primer detail so as not to lose the fine touches.
_____________________________
Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
that's probably the case 'gator. i've been thinking about that as i go along but i figure i'm going to need to prime the aluminum panels anyway prior to paint and the primered panel lines and panels (in the case of this last panel) are separate from the aluminum ones so hopefully i won't lose the detail. i don't know, maybe i should have waited.
Posts: 2212
Joined: 12/6/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: online
When I did my Spit, I added the panels before priming. It does soften the edges a bit, but once weathered, they pop again. For doing the fairings and raised panels, I layed masking tape on the low side, then used body putty filler to create a raised panel. The filler is feathered in towards the center of the raised panel. Once the tape is pulled off an nice raised joint is made. This photo shows the wing fairing and the raised panel over the fuel tank. Around the tank, I did two layers of tape to make a more prenounced raised panel.
Posts: 2212
Joined: 12/6/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: online
When I did my Spit, I added aluminum panels before priming. It does soften the edges a bit, but once weathered, they pop again. For doing the fairings and raised panels, I layed masking tape on the low side, then used body putty filler to create a raised panel. The filler is feathered in towards the center of the raised panel. Once the tape is pulled off an nice raised joint is made. This photo shows the wing fairing and the raised panel over the fuel tank. Around the tank, I did two layers of tape to make a more prenounced raised panel. The cockpit door is a panel made from aluminum tape.
Scott.
< Message edited by saramos -- 11/8/2006 5:53:00 AM >
Posts: 1364
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
That looks good, Scott. I did the aluminum tape on my T-bolt at the same time I did the panel lines and it came out ok. As you say, it pops during the weathering process.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 11/8/2006 6:40:02 AM >
_____________________________
Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
Posts: 268
Joined: 1/11/2004 From: LUGOJ, , ROMANIA Status: online
Hello Tubig!
quote:
ORIGINAL: saramos
... Around the tank, I did two layers of tape to make a more prenounced raised panel.
Scott.
Thanks saramos! This is what I mean by controling the thikness of the panel [ I did not find the english words (one or more layers of tape )]. First time when I see this tehnique, was Tom Pierce's project SBD-5 Dauntless, a masterpiece! On my Me 109 I used the same kind of tehnique with more or less visual effect. I complicated a littlebit the work, by masking with tape the doors and hatches. And for the doors I used thin paper cardboard ( my bad english ). The doors and hatches have the masking tape dimensions ,minus 0.5 or 1mm ,to remain a little gap between the two edges when the door or hatch is on position. This kind of stuff ,means a lot of primer (weight ) to be aplied on great surfaces,but, if its is corectly worked, the visual effect is super! Maybe understand better the photo than my english Jimmy
scott, tom, and jimmy, thanks for the info. i've decided to primer the panel lines before adding any more taped panels (only a few more to add anyway). i've pulled the FM off the fin and will do that in primer as well. hopefully, will start taping in the panel lines today with 1/64" chartpak tape and maybe get to shooting them tomorrow.
Posts: 2212
Joined: 12/6/2003 From: Northridge,
CA, USA Status: online
It can be time consuming and even frustrating, but I find trying new techiniques and seeing what works and what doesn't is a big part of the fun. Often what doesn't work at one point will be the best approach at another point. In the end, I know you'll have a great looking model.