REPUBLIC P-47 104" WS BUD NOSEN
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Seller:N215PB Details:
$1,800.00
| 7/10/2008
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rich, i have read of poly u but unfortunately i've not been able to find it around here. guess i'll have to stick with the "classic" methods of finishing. thanks for the info.
in order to open the bottom rear of the cowl for the exhaust exit i needed to make a new door since i didn't think i could make a fine enough cut to make the cutout piece usable. so i used the monokote trick; clear monokote down and then 5 layers of 5oz cloth and resin.
pic 2: after curing, i traced around the door outline and then popped the glassed piece off and cut out both the door and the opening in the cowl. the door outline was already molded into the cowl so i didn't to retrace the opening from the new door i made.
pic 1-2: began cutting up the cowl openings. BT recommends enlarging the "oil discharge opening" in the front of the cowl if the engine is to be totally enclosed so i did. Holman provides a second chin section of cowling that can be bolted in place allowing access to the engine (area that is marked in pen). i didn't want to cut any more of the cowl and all i really wanted was access to the glow plug which the front opening gives me so i'm not going that route.
pic 2-5: air intake for the oil cooler. i'm using 1/8" balsa to make intake walls and screen support. sorry for the blurry pic. 1/32" ply piece for the intake guide vane friction fit in place. this needs to be removed to add the screen to the rear balsa piece which needs to be added after painting. i still need to add some microballoons to the front edge where the balsa meets the cowl and feather in.
Posts: 1422
Joined: 2/2/2002 From: Lakeside, AZ, USA Status: online
Tibig It is really looking good. The glass work is really nice. Does BT make a little bit bigger short kit for the 109? arround 80 in or so. Did you get the short kit from Bob Holman? Thanks Rich
pic 1: to facilitate cooling air to the engine i added some baffles, top and bottom, to the openings in the cowl. this is what they look like from inside the cowl.
pic 2: cowl top. you can just see the muffler extension coming from the crankcase.
pic 3: cowl bottom. the engine sits so far forward that i couldn't get the baffles to direct airflow over the heat fins but more toward the rear of the engine. this is my first time at baffling an engine. i think it will work.
< Message edited by tubig -- 12/16/2005 3:58:41 AM >
pic 1: put on the flow coat of West Systems epoxy to the fuselage.
pic 2-3: while the flow coat is drying i started fooling around with the exhaust stubs. i saw a neat way to do this from Tom Hunt's site on his 109 and thought i would try it. he uses heat shrink tubing around a balsa plug to make the exhausts. unfortunately, as you can from the photo the wall thickness of the pvc heat shrink i used is too thick so i've ordered some polyolefin heat shrink which has thinner wall thickness. so now this will be delayed for a couple of weeks waiting for the heat shrink. looks promising though.
< Message edited by tubig -- 11/5/2005 2:38:11 AM >
Posts: 4335
Joined: 4/1/2003 From: Springfield, VA, Status: offline
Why not just carve One stack from balsa and make a mold? My friend did that on his 109 and they look good. The good part about casting your parts is once you get the part looking exactly the way you want all the rest you cast look just as good.
bob, i actually have thought of trying to cast them but i think if this method works the stacks will be lighter and look very close to the real thing. plus i won't have to carve out an opening to make them hollow like i would with casing. if this method doesn't work for me then i will cast them.
started working the wing. pretty straight forward so far. i laid down 1/4" sq balsa spars, front and rear, and tack glued the ribs on top. then added the top spars. i'm a little surprised with using balsa spars especially on a 68" wingspan but followed BT's plan anyway. as you can see, i didn't glue in rib 1 but will wait until building the second wing half onto the first and then align both ribs 1 for the correct dihedral. i think it's easier this way than try to use a dihedral jig to set each rib separately and then mate them together.
finished up the basic wing half construction by adding the rear spar and shear webs to the front and rear main spars. i had to add some balsa scraps to the trailing edge of some of the ribs and then carefully sand to get a straight alignment for the 3/16" sheet trailing edge. BT uses alot of shear webs but the wing is definitely strong, and light.
pic 2 shows how part of the sub leading edge is 1/8" ply which is keyed into the landing gear mount area by gluing to 1/16" ply rib doublers on ribs 2,3,4. now for the sheeting.
Posts: 1320
Joined: 1/7/2002 From: MONTEBELLO, CA, USA Status: offline
Looks real nice. Nice work.
On the headers, I made these for my 80" span 109F/G from styren plastic and made RTV molds of the left and right header. The parts are made from poly urethane resin.
To get all the stuff you need for this type of molding search Smooth On products.
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RE: BT Bf109E-4 - 
