RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !  
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RE: Welcome to Club S... - 6/4/2008 9:41:18 PM   
AJsToyz



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quote:

ORIGINAL: proptop


quote:

ORIGINAL: TimC


quote:

ORIGINAL: w8ye

The casting material used in the die castings of model engines has a high zinc content so the aluminum will fill out all the little intricate details of the casting design.
Aluminum castings with a high zinc content do not lend themselves to being the most weldable of metals. What the welder experiences is, that to get the metal hot enough to get any penetration, you will be within a hair breath of the whole thing melting into a puddle or at least a hole melting in it. The solution to this problem is to use a low melting point "solder type weld metal" which, as a result, does not have the strength of the original metal.
Most of our model engines are die castings. Some of the low production and one-off racing engines may have sand cast crankcases. These would typically be of a more weldable (356 prime) alloy with only 2.5% zinc and be much stronger with 2.5% copper.

I'm sure this will spark up some counter points from some metallurgical weld engineer and the discussion is welcome.

Jim, let me add my limited experience with welding cast aluminum. I would vee out the crack and make what looked like a good weld. As the weld cooled it would crack. My solution was to make the vee a larger angle than normal and weld. After it cracked, I would re-vee at a normal angle leaving weld metal to weld on. This time the weld wouldn't crack. I've welded aluminum engine cases but nothing as small as our airplane engines. I think this would pose a challange with a heli-arc rig. I also am hoping one of our members with experience with cast aluminum welding will post.




I think if you could find a way to keep it from cooling down too quickly, the chances of cracking would be lessened...
My dad was a welding engineer, and told me that Alum. (generally ) needs to be pre-heated, and the cool down after welding needs to be controlled.
If we were talking about a model engine case (or other parts ) for example, perhaps putting the case or parts in an oven before and after welding/alumabrazing, etc. would be a good idea?


Aluminum Disapates heat very fast , a part this small will not need to be preheated in an oven. If you take your torch ans just feather the flame over the whole part for about a minute , it will be fine. After your done you can do the same for about a minute. If the part cools evenly , you should not have any problem with your repair. Just make sure that part is as clean as you can possibly get it , any oil residue will make it hard to repair and,leave tarnish on the part.

Andy

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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/4/2008 10:43:26 PM   
bigbuster


 

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I have a friend that owns a Saito 180 that has the muffler loosening problem and with all the tips found here it doesn't get better. My question is, is has anyone tried the Performance Specialties muffler on this engine? I have them on my ys engines and have never had a problem. Please let me know if you have had success with this muffler.


Thanks
Jeff








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       Post #: 10927

RE: Welcome to Club ... - 6/4/2008 10:56:14 PM   
Michaelh


 

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Yeah they work great on the 180 http://www.vimeo.com/1038668 I have some video in flight also if your interested.
BTW Im peaking it out at 9200 now!

< Message edited by Michaelh -- 6/4/2008 10:57:32 PM >


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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/4/2008 11:38:40 PM   
Hobbsy



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Jeff, maybe we need to clarify, are you asking about Performance Specialties mufflers or RC Specialties TurboHeader, if the TurboHeader I can vouch for it enhancing performance on all Saitos except the 1.25 and for it staying in place. The 1.25 has two peculiarities, the TurboHeader does not give it a boost in RPM and a velocity stack knocks off 200 rpm.

< Message edited by Hobbsy -- 6/4/2008 11:39:53 PM >


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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/4/2008 11:47:43 PM   
AJsToyz



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From: Maybee, MI, USA
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Starter question ???

My Sullivan starter does not like my 1.25 , my fingers don't trust my 1.25 , what starters fire up these engines with out to much trouble ??
I can get it to work , but its hit or miss , mostly miss.

Andy

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I go out , I crash , I fix .....
Club Saito member #590

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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/4/2008 11:53:04 PM   
RC Specialties


 

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Andy,

I have the Hobbico TorqueMaster 90 and it spins my 1.25, 1.20, and 1.80 over fine.

Jim

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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/5/2008 12:02:36 AM   
AJsToyz



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From: Maybee, MI, USA
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Jim,

Thank you , not looking for anything fancy , just looking to work.

Andy

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I go out , I crash , I fix .....
Club Saito member #590

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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/5/2008 12:08:31 AM   
Hobbsy



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From: Colonial Beach, VA, USA
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AJ, save yourself about $40 bucks and go get a NAPA 300 amp garden tractor battery and the Sullivan will start your Peterbilt.

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(in reply to AJsToyz)
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO ! - 6/5/2008 12:15:06 AM   
RC Specialties