Posts: 716
Joined: 11/14/2002 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
Got the cowl mounted, and pics. Used masking tape to hold the cowl in place, and drilled 4 - 1/8" holes. The holes shoud not be more than 3/8" from the back edge of the cowl. The holes are at 2,5,7,& 10 O'clock. Then use 3/16" plywood, mark out 4 - 3/4" x 3/4" mounts. Drill the center of each plywood mount to set the blind nut, and glue in place. Use epoxy on the plywood to glue the cowl mount into the fuse., use oil / WD-40 on the screw to aviod gluing it to the nut. Hold the mount in place with the cap screw, let set till dry.
< Message edited by flier -- 9/12/2005 2:31:57 AM >
Posts: 716
Joined: 11/14/2002 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
Won't have my engine till the first part of next week. So I'll mount the tail gear, & main gear. I drilled the main wheels and gear to fit the 3/16" axles, and installed the wheels, & set collars. The hardware supplied for the main gear had the wrong sized blind nuts installed. The cap screws are 5mm and the blind nuts are 6mm. I'll pick up some 6mm cap screws latter. On to the tail wheel mount. Drilled a 3/16" hole for the haig style tail wheel and used the mounting straps as a template to drill the 3/32" holes to mount the straps. I used a #4 button head screw to fasten the tiller bar to the rudder. Turned out nice and neat.
< Message edited by flier -- 9/2/2005 3:08:33 AM >
Posts: 716
Joined: 11/14/2002 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
Went on to build the fuel and radio trays. After a light sanding of all edges, and test fitting all pieces, it was time to glue. I used med. CA for this part, and re-coated after all was dry. Some slots may need to be enlarged slightly, check fit and then glue.
< Message edited by flier -- 9/2/2005 1:38:34 AM >
OK you are far enough along that I need to explain a few things about what you have done. This info is in the manual as you know but people reading this thread would not know this.
I don't like the gas tank tray. When assembled and mounted on the wing tube sleeve it interferes with installing the wings and the landing gear. It's just generally in the way.
Instead I mounted the gas tank UNDER the wing tube, and I mad a couple little saddles to mount the throttle and choke servos so I can still get my hand in there to secure the wings or remove the [incorrectly sized] landing gear bolts.
Also that servo tray is almost too big. I did not use the part in front of the stiffener rib, still had plenty of room for the receiver. With a DA-50 I had 2 receiver batteries mounted to the inside part of the engine dome to shift weight forward.
To those considering building this plane, there's a lot of room and you can be innovative.
Posts: 716
Joined: 11/14/2002 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
I cut the fuel tray and got a servo mount out of the deal. Setting up some of the on board electronics. Thinking about mounting the servos for the throttle and choke on the rear of the wing tube. Moved the fuel tank under the tube as Tom suggested. Nothing glued in yet, still waiting on my Aeropoxy order. Will wait till the engine is on and check balance to see where everything needs to be. Might use the remaining fuel tray for the area in front of the main gear to hold the batt/reg/switch/ign. for the engine.
P.S. The full arm on the rudder servo is NOT the one I'll be using, just there for looks. Working on the radio tray set up is a lot easier before its glued in.
< Message edited by flier -- 9/4/2005 2:59:30 PM >
Posts: 716
Joined: 11/14/2002 From: Hastings,
MN, USA Status: offline
No, I installed the two charge switches for two reasons. 1) for the charge jacks 2) for isolation of the batteries. Below is taken from Fromeco's web site.
["Fail Safe Switches like the Reliaswitch use power in the "OFF" Position. Due to the internal design of the "SUPER REGULATED RELIASWITCH" it uses 3mA in the "OFF" position. This amount of current drain in the "OFF" position is unfortunately very high. Fromeco recommends that Pilots utilizing the "SUPER REGULATED RELIASWITCH" and any type of Lithium Ion battery disconnect their batteries when not in use for more than a few days."]
These two switches allow me to isolate and/or charge without taking the conectors apart. The on/off for Rx will be the pin/flag switch that comes with the Fromeco system.
< Message edited by flier -- 9/11/2005 1:45:14 PM >
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Wild Hare Composite Sukhoi build thread - 
RE: WH Sukhoi build thread - 
