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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/22/2013 10:14 PM   
JoeR


 

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From: Bemus Point, NY, USA
Status: offline 		I recently purchased a second hand Seawind. Its missing the wing joiner. I assume they are not available from Tower any longer but haven't contacted them yet.

Can some share some dimensions so I can try to get one fabricated? Or if by chance anyone happens to have an extra they want to sell let me know. Thanks!

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/23/2013 1:28 AM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, I may be able to help since I have a GP Seawind waiting for the water to get soft again. The following are the dimensions I got from my main spar. I hope you have a good imagination because the spar is not your typical dihedral from the spar center line.

Overall length is 25 1/8 "
Thickness is .105" steel with 25 lightening holes 3/8" in diameter spaced 3/4" on center, along the length of the spar and omitted in the dihedral break area.
Spar height is .836"

This part may be confusing but I'll try to be as clear as I can. The center 10 1/8" section is straight (no dihedral ). At the ends of the straight section is where the dihedral of 2 1/2 degrees begins. The dihedraled sections are 7 1/2" long. If you were to stand a piece of 25 1/8" long steel stock, on edge and clamp the center 10 1/8" down and bend the ends up 2 1/2 degrees you will have what the spar looks like.

Hope this helps.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/23/2013 10:17 PM   
JoeR


 

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Status: offline 		John, That information is just what I needed. Thanks!

Are you sure its steel? Everything I've read says its aluminum.

Are you measuring the breaks/bends at the top?

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/23/2013 10:59 PM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, you are correct. The material is aluminum. I measured the dimensions to the dihedral breaks along the bottom of the part.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2013 12:10 PM   
JoeR


 

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From: Bemus Point, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks again John.  One more question.  Can you give me the dimension of the center section at the top?  I'm assuming that when bent the bottom dimension will be the side that grows.  Not that 2-1/2 degrees is that much of a bend.  I suppose also, the center section is sized for the width of the fuse and I can get the dimension by putting the aluminum stock I get through the plane and marking were it comes out the sides.

Another question:  There is a bunch of lead shot glued into nose of my plane.  Did they come this way or was this added by the previous owner? 


I'll just throw this out there...  If anyone has an extra cowl they don't need let me know.  The plane I bought was setup for an IC engine and the cowl was carved out for it.  I'm going electric so a fresh cowl would save me some patching.  I see its one of the parts that Tower doesn't have any longer.  Thanks


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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2013 1:05 PM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, I used my machinest's square and projected a line from the dihedral break point on the bottom of the spar to the top. The top line dimension is 10 1/16". As you suggested, not much difference when you consider the 2 1/2 degree angle.

The nose of my Seawind is also full of a lead shot/epoxy slurry. It sure looks to me like it's factory installed. My plane is also second hand but the installation still suggests factory work.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2013 2:42 PM   
JoeR


 

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Status: offline 		John, Can I bug you for one more dimension?  Can you tell me the height of the end of the joiner when is sitting vertical on a flat surface?  I can layout on CAD also to find out.

By the decimal places in your dimensions it sounds like you used a caliper for an exact reading.  I did a quick search on the internet for a similar size (.105" x .836") and immediately found some .125" x .75" stock at Home Depot.  To convenient.  I'll have to take a look at my plane to see if that will be close enough.  Perhaps building up the hieght by gluing something on the edge (lite ply or plastic).  If there's not any wiggle room for the extra width I'll look at sanding.  Hopefully taking .020" off won't be too bad since its aluminum.  I'll keep looking online also.  Now just to figure out how to get the bend just right.  Thanks again.


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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2013 3:11 PM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, the joiner ends are up .400 +/- .003" with the part sitting on a sheet of glass in the installed orientation. That is with my dial caliper as was used for the sheet stock thiclness.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2013 3:46 PM   
JoeR


 

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Status: offline 		Fantastic.  Thanks again.

I did a little more searching and it seems .125 x .75 or 1" are as close as I will get in stock material.  Well, I did find a place that sells .8" sheet material but the size was large.  Perhaps I'll call a metal fabricator in town to see if they can sheer a strip for me if they have the correct thickness. 



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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2013 5:21 PM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, I did a fit check of the joiner into the slot in the wing and I think you will be hard pressed to get any .125 stock into the wing. It will be a press fit at best. As for stock width, anything over the .836 + .400 is what you want. The joiner is milled flat stock with the dihedral end shape milled in. Nothing is bent.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/25/2013 2:58 AM   
JoeR


 

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From: Bemus Point, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Unfortunately I don't have access to a mill.  I'll have to see what I can do to make due.  Thanks again.


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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/25/2013 12:42 PM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Joe, in a real pinch I would try my method for putting a large squareish hole or cut out slot in a piece of plywood. First I layout the hole on the part. Then with my hand drill or drill press I drill closely spaced holes along the scrap side of the layout lines. This leaves a weakened "tear along the dotted line". With metal, you can usually break off the scrap piece. Then comes the tedious task of filing to the layout line or if you have a belt sander with an emory cloth belt you should be able to final sand the majority of the shape and finish the inaccesable inside corners with a file. If you have a band saw with a metal cutting blade you should be able to cut the part to rough shape and then file to final.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/26/2013 2:37 PM   
JoeR


 

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Status: offline 		Looks like I can get 1-1/2" x .125 (1/8") stock at Home Depot.  I was thinking I could use a jig saw but perhaps I could try to get a metal blade for my small band saw.  The one thing I'm not sure about is how much effort it will be to reduce the thickness by .02"  along the whole length.  I'll have to think on that. Perhaps a belt sander.


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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/26/2013 6:02 PM   
Square Nozzle


 

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Status: offline 		Good news Joe, you only have to thin the sections that slide into the wing. I'd do a fit check first. You may be able to get the 1/8th stock into the wing as it is. Check Sears for a metal cutting band saw blade. I used to get blades for my old 3 wheel band saw from them.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 2/1/2013 10:43 PM   
hattend



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Status: offline 		Joe, you could always build the joiner like the Great Planes Spirit sailplane. Aluminum sandwiched between ply. Then sand to correct thickness.

Just throwing it out there.

Don

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