RE: Great Planes Seawind  
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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/23/2006 7:04:29 AM   
PaulG-RC



Posts: 597
Joined: 10/26/2003
From: ile-Bizard, Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Thats very interesting for the water handling. I will also inspect the water rudder before installing it .
I completed the wings today and I decided to cover up the rib holes at the wing tips and applied CA to seal the balsa, I then installed the wingtips with silicon adhesive and then white electrical tape around it as a safety and it looks good.
As for the servos I like the setup but I decided to seal it more to avoid water getting in there from splash.
After the servos were installed I sanded the underside of the plastic plate covers and the put a coating of silicon and also use a piece of white party balloon glued on it and when place over the servos aint no water geting in there now.
All the seams around the covering has been sealed too with CA.



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(in reply to psteel1)
       Post #: 301

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/23/2006 5:49:11 PM   
flyboyjonny


 

Posts: 6
Joined: 3/11/2004
From: Westampton, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Glad to hear that you got to get in a good test flight! I does fly very well and the flaps are a God-send! The Seawind is not a happy camper when taxiing slow due to the wing tip floats being up so high. It's very typical for a scale flying hull configuration to drag a tip at slow speeds. I found that when I carried more throttle and got the wing tips up ( using some aileron to keep it level)...it did much better! Did you balance it laterally? That helps too!

(in reply to psteel1)
       Post #: 302

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/23/2006 11:17:53 PM   
Fast Freddy


 

Posts: 110
Joined: 6/22/2003
From: Madison, WI, USA
Status: offline 		Waterproofing Removeable Wing Halves on Seawind

Here's an idea for waterproofing the right and left wing halves at the center wing section joining ribs. What about making permanent silicone gaskets on the right and left center wing section? Think this would work? I plan on removing the wings after each flight since I don't have a big enough vehicle to haul the Seawind fully assembled. In addition, putting electrical tape on and off the joints on a continual basis might tear the covering.

Another idea. I did a search on the net for O rings and found sites that sell O ring material by the foot in either a round or flat configuration. It comes in very small thicknesses down to 10 or 15 thousandths. One could cut a flat silicone gasket the exact shape of the rib, cut access holes for servo connectors and have a very clean joint.

I've done neither of these modifications, I'm just throwing out ideas.

(in reply to flyboyjonny)
       Post #: 303

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2006 6:26:55 AM   
PaulG-RC



Posts: 597
Joined: 10/26/2003
From: ile-Bizard, Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: offline 		For the main wings I will make a silicon gasket shape like the rib thats a great idea

(in reply to Fast Freddy)
       Post #: 304

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2006 12:52:51 PM   
gouda


 

Posts: 91
Joined: 8/31/2002
From: Edina, MN, USA
Status: offline 		That is a great idea, I'll follow suit. Where did you get the material? Or could any silicon be used? Would a process like this work? >> Cover the fuse root area with a clear wrap, then appling the silicon to the wing root, joining the two parts and allowing the material to cure. Then dis-assemble and trim the excess silicon.
I don't think gluing a o-ring material on the root would work very well. In order for it not to cause a issue, it would have to be very small dia (like noted) and if the glue caused it to harden or get brittle, it would lose it's sealing ability. I'm assume you mean round o-ring material. In re-reading the post, maybe you meant flat material...????

Just some thoughts.

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(in reply to PaulG-RC)
       Post #: 305

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2006 2:26:25 PM   
PaulG-RC



Posts: 597
Joined: 10/26/2003
From: ile-Bizard, Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Thats it simply apply the silicon and then placing a wax paper between the wing and the fuse wiping the excess and you got a gasket.

(in reply to gouda)
       Post #: 306

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2006 4:13:10 PM   
lmcp


 

Posts: 22
Joined: 11/10/2003
From: Lawrence, MI, ALBANIA
Status: offline 		I just finished a Spectra ll seaplane from the 1970 RCM Magazine plan. I looks much like the Great Planes Seawind. It has a 76" wingspan and weighs 11-12 lbs. I'm using a Magnum 91 F-S engine and want to use a 3-blade prop, but don't know the size and pitch for this engine. Amy suggestions? Is there any conversion chart available for 2 to three blade and/ 4 bladed props?

Larry

(in reply to Strykaas)
       Post #: 307

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2006 4:22:38 PM   
PaulG-RC



Posts: 597
Joined: 10/26/2003
From: ile-Bizard, Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Usually 2 inch less to 1 deg in pitch more works well. so if you use a 14 x 6 you would use a 3 blade 12 x 7

(in reply to lmcp)
       Post #: 308

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/24/2006 5:10:35 PM   
seanychen



Posts: 2914
Joined: 7/20/2002
From: Canton, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Use the Graupner 12.5 x 7 3-blader. It will look best, much better than the thin blade, flex-on-demand Master Airscrew 3-bladers.

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(in reply to PaulG-RC)
       Post #: 309

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/26/2006 9:19:31 PM   
RVman


 

Posts: 561
Joined: 6/2/2003
From: Guelph, ON,
Status: offline 		hello, just wondering how people are balancing the seawind accurately. Im thinking upside down is probably a little bit easier but a CG machine will slide off the top of the wing so...

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Tom G.

(in reply to seanychen)
       Post #: 310

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/27/2006 2:48:03 AM   
stick flyer


 

Posts: 38
Joined: 1/21/2002
From: Woodbine, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		I am looking for ideas in putting the antana in the Seawind? I am not sure what would work the best. GP sure doesn't help withnthis one. Where did you put the antana?

(in reply to Strykaas)
       Post #: 311

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/27/2006 3:43:38 AM   
Skyventures



Posts: 62
Joined: 11/8/2002
From: Fox Creek, AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hello Stick Flyer,
I drilled a hole in the former at the step on the starboard (right side) near the bottom, and driiled a piece of 1/8 balsa, threaded a nirod outer housing through the former and put the piece of balsa on the nirod pushing it back to the next former and glued it to the formers. The nirod went all the back into the tail. This gives you a tube to push the antena back into the fusalage. If I am able to get our camera from my wife again tomarrow, I'll take a picture and post it on this form.

(in reply to stick flyer)
       Post #: 312

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/27/2006 2:08:57 PM   
stick flyer


 

Posts: 38
Joined: 1/21/2002
From: Woodbine, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the information as this is a method that I had not thought of. Sounds like a good idea as the plane could then be kept water tight. Does the antena wire then reach to the outside or does it stay internal? I am thinking that it will then stay internal. I have almost always put my antena wires internal and then out of the tail on smaller planes. How did the balance go for you? I put Robart retracts on mine and still haven't done the balance as I have time before I will fly do to the time of year. I will use a 5 cell 6 volt battery and will place it as far forward as possible to help the balance. Bubble wrap does wonders for lodging things in small places as well as displacing possible water where you do not want it. Looking forward to your reply.

(in reply to Skyventures)
       Post #: 313

RE: Great Planes Seawind - 1/27/2006 2:15:54 PM   
MMallory


 

Posts: 1115
Joined: 12/11/2001
From: South Plainfield, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Another option is to use a whip antenna. This is very easy to install and seal. 1 hole and screw on.

(in reply to stick flyer)