billdor
Posts: 21
Joined: 1/14/2002 From: Calgary,
AB, CANADA Status: offline
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I have just finished building the GP Seawind. I have read most of this thread and appreciate all of the help it afforded me. This kit came well packaged and with no damage. This is pretty much my first sea plane although I did have a trainer type on floats for a short time years ago. I did not install any gear as I will save it for use on water exclusivly. I took a lot of advice from you guys while building. I did not even install the totally useless self bailer your right the ball does not float but even if it did, the tube would have to be more vertical for it to have a chance. I am trying to make everything waterproof, will make silicone gaskets for wing roots and canopy. I glued the gear doors in permanently with epoxy and microballoons and used the same treatment for the wing tips. One thing that I may be able to help some of you with is the switch. For sometime now I have been using a Deans ultra plug in place of a switch. To mount it you put a small 1" square piece of lite ply as a backer in any convenient location, carve a hole in it to tightly fit the female half of the plug then glue it in solidly flush with the surface of the model. Wire it by simply cutting the hot wire from the battery and soldering the two cut ends to the terminals of the plug, a blob of silicone acts as a strain relief to ensure the wires do not break at the solder joint. you can then solder a jumper to the terminals of the male half and keep it in a convenient location. To turn the power on simply put in the plug, and after your flight just pull the plug and put it in your pocket ready for your next flight. to incorporate a charge plug simply solder it in between the Deans plug and the battery. I have not suffered from a switch failure since I started using this method and because the pins are moulded into the plastic body of the switch it is completly waterproof.
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RC Bill He who dies with the most toys wins.
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