RE: Great Planes Seawind  
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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 2:33:48 PM   
PaulG-RC



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The foam you would use to re-enforce the tip float is simply insulating foam in a can, but make sure it has a way out to expand or it will deformm the float.
The brand of foam I guess is best you read the label to see if there is different density.
I personally will not inject any foam there ,I will make shure the float is water tight and if water gets in I will drill a drain hole.


quote:

ORIGINAL: Skyventures

Someone suggested to fill the tip floats with foam and attach them to the wing with silicone. Is there a specific brand or type of injection foam and silicone that works best?


(in reply to Skyventures)
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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 4:52:48 PM   
evan-RCU



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About fuel or no fuel checking the CG. The reason we check normal front engined airplanes without fuel is you want to check the airplane at it's most tail heavy condition. In a front mounted airplane this means tank empty, in a rear tanked airplane this means tank full. If you are moving the tank to the CG this means it doesn't matter.

About damage to your airplane or bad things in life in general, they, the people responsible are going to down play the problems as much as possible and generally not admit to fault, that's the way the world is any more. That's why forums like this will give you more information than you'll get from the source of supply, it's also what keeps lawyers in work.

About filling voids(empty spaces) with foam, don't do it, ever, with one exception, that you have a way to remove the water that will still find it's way into the area. If you have an area that water is getting into and you fill it with foam the water still gets in there, in and around the foam, and then you have more problems. If you have a problem with water getting somewhere fix the problem. If you have tried to fix it and a small amount of water still gets in make a drain hole above the water line as high as possible and have some sort of drain plug that you can remove to drain the water out and then reseal so water doesn't get in through the drain hole.

When the first pictures of the Seawind came out early this year you could look at it and tell there were going to be problems. Thant's why I never bought one, still won't, there are basic design issues they will never fix.

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R/C Anonymous. My name is Evan and I have not flown for 14 hours.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 5:48:44 PM   
PaulG-RC



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My last ARF was a big KMP Beaver with a fiberglass fuselage and fiberglass floats and the only problem I got was the floats damage in shipping , I did fix them without any problems.
The Seawind is my fourth ARF made of fiberglass and the little problems reported will not stop me from getting others in the future.
I had many kits with problems too.
A couple years ago I built a Northstar and it was a lot of work and I still had to take preventive precaution to fly it off the water and I had tons of flights on it.
What I like with some ARF is that it drives me to improve on it little things that I might not do after building a kit.
So far Im very happy with the Seawind even if I had little snags, its one gorgeous looking plane and I look foward to fly it.
I do agree that since its a fiberglass fuselage and the inside is not protected from water, its best to make shure water stays out of it but then its even worst on a balsa built float plane.

I you really like this airplane I dont think the thread should stop anyone from getting one, the chance of getting a damage product in shipping is there for anything.

Paul



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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 7:08:44 PM   
Skyventures



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Thanks Paul for your advise on the tip floats. (just common sense)
I have built 3 Northstars and to help waterproof the inside I spray a couple of light coats of indoor clear water based Varathane wood finish. I also drill drain holes in the wing ribs and fuse formers so that if you stand the plane on its nose, any water will drain to the nose and then can be dried out by removing the canopy. Al my Northstars weighed about 7.82 lbs. I love my Northstars and my Arrow. I'll also take a look at the Seawind and probably do the drain holes also. I am picking up the Seawind tomarrow.
Doug.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 7:11:06 PM   
gouda


 

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Paul; I agree, the minor issues I saw discussed didn't stop me and I am pleased with the plane. It's going to be fun to fly in my front yard.

Evan; I think the discussion about using foam didn't really have anything to do with trying to keep water out. I believe it was rather related to adding strength by cutting down on vibration etc through the FG. At least that's what I was talking about. I still believe that a viable solution.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 7:15:52 PM   
MCLIATT


 

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I recieved my first seawind about a month ago. The fuse was so cracked the engine pod could be moved by hand 2" in either direction without much effort. I inspected the box and the damage had to have been done before shipped. Tower had me another no questions asked within two weeks. This Fuse had a small blemish but I easily fixed to get started. I encountered one loose bulkhead. I race radio control boats and have found that if you patch or attach fiberglass hulls with epoxy it will not hold as long as using fiberglass resin. Always sand off the glaze before applying and use fine cloth if possible. The strength is in the glass. Concerning the foam issues. Again with the boats we have used many things for floatation. Even the non expanding foams have draw backs. My experience is that some of these foams are not a closed cell type and will hold water and the subsequent weight. The best solution we have found is the swimming pool noodles the kids play with at the pool. These are cheap, closed cell, light and can cut to fit almost any location. Always glue the noodle pieces to the part used with silicone caulk. Floatation is no good if not attached to the item wanted saved. I have seen boat crashes with all that remains is the boaters floatation. Last item before I go back to finishing my seawind is water in the radio equipment. A large balloon around the reciever sealed with a wire tie will help. Another trick the boaters use is corrosion X. I take my reciever, switch and all servos apart and treat them with corrosion X before I install them in any boat. No matter how tight the radio box is water always finds a way in. A good reciever is useless if the servo or switch is shorted out. This especially concerned me with the flap and aileron servos on the seawind. All I have to do is balance my seawind and I am ready to try. It is supposed to be 56 this weekend so weather should not be a problem.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 9:06:51 PM   
PaulG-RC



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Dont forget to take pictures..........lots of them even a video would be great nothing much out there since it came out and we all want to see some in action

Paul

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/9/2005 9:47:52 PM   
Skyventures



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Where do you purchase corrosion x? Who is the manufacturer?

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/11/2005 1:52:18 PM   
Fast Freddy


 

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RCV ENGINE FOR SEAWIND
Anyone have any opinions on using an RCV engine for the Seawind? Their slim profile and high power to weight ratio might make it an ideal candidate. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/11/2005 2:16:52 PM   
MMallory


 

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Freddy,

Great idea. I wonder if an RCV would spin a small enough prop. I am still waiting for someone to come up with a proven electric solution.

Mark

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/11/2005 5:43:10 PM   
RVman


 

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The RCV 91 CD would work it is much shorter than a normal fourstroke. Unfortunatly they are heavier than an equivilant OS or whatever. The 90SP would not work harldy as they use massive props that will not fit.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/11/2005 8:51:25 PM   
Wine Country Flyer


 

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Skyventures-I don't know about local stores in your area to purchase Corrosion-X, but you can get it directly from Corrosionx.com . Sent right to your door. It's great stuff.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/13/2005 4:05:09 AM   
RVman


 

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Well, i am probably the first to be putting mechanical retracts in a seawind. I bought the new retracts minnflyer has said were available soon and they should be coming shortly. I plan to use a JR 791 retract servo (260 oz/in torque which should be plenty) to operate all three gear. The nosewheel is a robart mechanical nose gear unit. It should be interesting trying to figure out a linkage for the plug in wings, but i will get it to work properly eventually with some type of linkage setup and a lot of measuring.
The air retracts don't seem very attractive to me, you have to fill them up all the time, they cost more, leaks can be a pain to find etc. The only advantage is they are easier to install imho.
I am also making a retractable water rudder setup by using a micro tailwheel retract from robart which i will solder the water rudder too and use a normal servo to retract. It will steer off the nosewheel steering servo. The water rudder will be on a separate channel so i will be using all 8 channels of my radio.
And my other major mod will be sealing nose gear bay and making gear doors which are functional.
Therefore the plane will be a true amphib
Should be a fun project

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/13/2005 5:26:08 AM   
Wine Country Flyer


 

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I knew someone would take on that big project and make it a true amphibian. Good luck, and let us know how it goes. With pics, if possible.

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RE: Great Planes Seawind - 12/13/2005 6:58:07 AM   
PaulG-RC



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