Love To build

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I am trying to locate a set of plans for the canard stick. I had one back in the 80's and loved it. Any help would be appreciated.

Bill

bruce119

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Hi Bill
I too had a canard stick in the late 80s. It was fun to fly I had a super tiger 60 in it if I remember rite. It flew great didn't like too spin I spun it too the ground a couple of times. That's probably why it's not around any more. Any how I too was looking for that plane about a year ago had no luck hopefully someone will have some info.

Let me know if you find anything

Bruce

Love To build

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The kit manufacturer was Cressline, I'll be interested in the kit also if anyone has one available

Thanks,

Bill

Skitimberlake

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I just bought a beat up old canard stick at auction. anyone remember where the CG was ?

Thanks

Skitimberlake

Roary m

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I still have my canard stick, plans as well. Will get them out this weekend and post you a cg. This guy needed to be balanced with the fuel tank full. I stopped flying mine years ago because I kept getting death threats[sm=48_48.gif] at the field for flying what was considered such an ugly plane. The weird thing is that it flies really good, just need to obey the rules around the canard design.

PeterC

I'm not sure if this thread is dead but I too am interested in the correct location for the CoG for the canard stik. I bought one at an auction a few years ago and flew it quite consistently. It flew great except I could never land it if the wind was blowing more than a light breeze. I had my CoG somewhere around 2" ahead of the LE of the wing. The problem was it stalled on landing and then did a big porpose nose dive into the ground. I built a new fuselage for it and tried it again but the same results existed. I think another inch or so further forward would help but then it would fly nose heavy (dog). Does any one have the plans or instructions?
Peter

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

I have to apologize; I was looking for the plans but got distracted. Will get them out asap. Two things with respect to this design are one: you will need dual rates on the canard flying surface. High rates for taking off and landing(remember, no prop wash over the tail) and second the plane balances with the tank full. Also, you cannot flare the plane for landing or else you will stall the canard and the plane will porpoise on you. Point the nose in on landing and let him come in a little hot. Will go and dig the plans out.

dyna_mo

A canard is designed NOT to stall. The canard ( front surface) has higher wing loading than the main wing so nose should mush over before the main wing loses lift. At ANY speed and/or power level, you should be able to hold full elevator and never enter a stall. The plane should just get "lazy" at slow speeds.

If you had a canard that would stall, you more than likely had a wing incidence problem (ie too little incidence on the canard surface).

CG of the canard stick is about 3" forward of the leading edge of main wing will full tank of gas.

BipeLuver

Does any one have the instruction book let fron the kit for the Canard Stick? I have plans, but no book.

Tkeith9512

Hello. New here, and just getting back into flying after a while outside the US on a military committment. I, too, used to have a St.Croix Canard Stick from 1985. I have recently ressurected the plans (including a left and right wing plan), but I can't for the life of me find the instruction booklet, although I know it's in my storage room somewhere. After 3 days of searching, I still can't find it. I have a completed plane, but NO idea of what to set the control throws at.

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!

Anyone that wants a free copy of the plans, please email me. I have them in 200 DPI TIFF and in 1 file PDF(the preferred format for Kinkos).

If you remember (or haven't seen it), the wing plan was printed on velum paper, and you flipped it over to see the lines through it to do the other half of the wing. I managed to flip the paper and scan it, so you get both parts of the wing for building! 36" wide paper, print out at Kinkos is about $8. Anyone out there with the mad computer image editing skills could easily cut/paste the only other parts off of the plan that you'dd need 2 copies of the fuselage print for: Nose cone, Front Canard Saddle Doubler, Rear Fuselage Doubler, Wing rib, and Wing Saddle Trippler. I just print two copies of the fuselage page and cut templates, and use the virgin print for assembly. Alternately, you can do a photocopy of all of those parts (only the Rear Fuselage Doubler needs to be done in 8.5x14, all others fit on 8.5x11) and use the photocopies as templates/cutting plans. Make the Canard control horn out of Dubro strip aileron kits, soldering the wires in the middle after the 90 degree down bend then cutting one wire off 1/2 inch below the joint. EVERYTHING is shown on the plan, as far as I can tell from the wreckage that I still have of my old plane.

Plans show CG 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 inches FWD of the wing LE with a FULL fuel tank.

Thanks.

Tkeith9512@(remove this)aol.com

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Ok guys...
You will need a little patience with me...for I'm on vacation and far from home. I have the full Canard Stick kit, with plans and instructions at home. The kit has been in stroage for many years...at least fifteen maybe twenty, and it is in excellent condition. I also have two Twin Stick kits, and an Bi-plane kit. I will be selling them all. I am due home June 4th. I will be more then willing to pull the plans and give any information needed off the plans.
Soft landings always,
Bobby Of Maui

Tkeith9512

OK, guys, I FOUND THE HOLY GRAIL today. I spent all day moving boxes in my storatge room and came up with the manual. I even found the original box, UPS 2nd day shipping Dec 1985 from Tower Hobbies! I will get is scanned and available for download Monday for any that want it. I also have the plans in TIFF and PDF format for anyone that wants those, too.

Control throws are:

Elevator 1/2" to 9/16" downward deflection (stick back)
1/2" to 9/16" upward deflection (stick forward)

Ailerons 3/16" to 1/4" downward deflection
3/16" to 1/4" upward deflection

Nose wheel 15 degrees left and right of center


I hope that this helps everyone!

Tom

PS, I found the original landing gear, too. I'll try to get pictures of all of this, or at least diagrams with dimensions.

Love To build

My Feedback: (30)

Tom ,

I would love a copy of the manual and the plans in tiff format.

Bill

aerowoof

i would like tiffs of plans and the manual also,e-mail is
[email protected]
thanks

Tkeith9512

WOW, burried in emails! Never knew there was so much interest in such a strange airplane. I've gotten 6 requests for plans in the last 24 hours! All sent. I'll send out the manual Monday when I get it scanned.

I may have some left over 1/32 plywood, had to get a 24/48 inch sheet as the smallest my LHS had in stock. I'll check tonight and see how many fuse doublers I can get out of it and I may offer pairs of blanks for cutting up for sale. NO PROMISES that I still have enough, have to sort the scrap bin.

Tom

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I did the review of that plane for RCR many years ago...I remember the wing plans were unique - you turned them over and VILOA! There it was, the opposite wing, clear as a bell - no oily mess to contend with. Flew well too, just strange seeing the "tail" of the plane higher than the wing when taking off (if standing behind it)....

Jerry

aerowoof

thanks

aerowoof

just looking quickly at the plans I noticed it uses twin fins,seems the left one is in way of the muffler,since you built one did you cut an opening to accomodate the muffler?I am considering moving them out to the wing like on the shinden.the more I think about the more I like the visualization,could even make functional rudders.

Tkeith9512

If you're looking at the LEFT wing, on the scan, the words will be printed normally (right wing has the words reversed), you will see the fin slot approximately 14 inches from where the fuselage side will be on the center of the wing, making the fins almost 16 inches on either side of the wing/fuse center line. Plenty of room for a muffler, although depending on the size engine you choose, you may need a muffler extension. I have flown this model with an OS .40FP and a 9x6 zinger pusher, which really requires a muffler extension, as the muffler body will be within 3/8" of the fuselage side, but the Tower (GMS) .46 with a zinger 16x6 that I've used has a longer muffler header, and fits without any additional spacers. It'll fly well with the .40 and zing with the .46.

Functional rudders are possible, and I even built a wing to do that, once, two different ways. First, I used a single servo and connected the rudders with a wire running between them, which had to be kinked to get around the motor. Didn't work too well. Then I re did it to take 2 rudder servos, on a Y harness with the nose wheel steering. PAIN IN THE BUTT to get them rigged the same. After a particularly bad tumble with a cross wind landing, I abandoned the rudder thing and rebuilt an original wing with solid fins and I was much happier.

These days, with smaller/stronger servos, though, I might again entertain the thought of making a rudder wing.

I hope that this helps.

Original main gear is 5/32 wire, with 3 1/4" mounting width, 4 1/2" rise (although the plans show 4") and 13 1/2" spread axle flange to axle flange (add at least 2 inches out from each axle flange to mount your wheels/tires and 5/32 collars). Looks like, if you like dural style LG (I can NEVER seem to get 5/32 wire to bend just right), the Great Planes 60L will just about fit the bill for mains, and I've used the Dubro unbent nose gear for the front, with 3 1/2" +/_ from the bottom of the fuse to the center of the axle. Keep in mind, if using the tires/wheels as per the plans, you can use the extra length of nose gear to get the NOSE DOWN attitude required for take off to fine tune the stance of the model if necessary.

Tom

PS, I've attempted to upload the plans/manual here, but .TIFF and .PDF won't load, so if you want 'em, direct email me and I'll send it out to you. I've alreay sent out 11 copies! I'm sure I'm not gonna see these posted on Ebay, right? I mean, I spent the money to have them scanned because I wanted to share and I'm giving them away, and the only thing that I ask is that anyone that I send them to, you share them, too, same way you get 'em! Fair enough?

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Tkeith9512,
It just amazes me how folks will reach out and help a fellow modeler. I know we can be a bit on the crazy side of life with our hobby, but seeing guys help out like you do, keeps the fire burning and a huge smile on my kisser.

Now I bought that kit of the Stick Canard years ago, because I've always had a thing for canards...and I love the Stick series of models too. All the stick models flew great I built...even down to, Larry Lenards first Little Stick, that I built and started to really enjoy hobby with. I have built Ugle Sticks since the early 70's, have one hangen in my garage now...and will be flying these things until I'm planted.

Soft Landings always,
Bobby of Maui

Tkeith9512

Bob, thanks for the kind words. Soft landings and safe travels.

Tom

Tkeith9512

More scans sent out today, PDFs of the wing rib, nose cone, wing saddle trippler, canard saddle doubler, and fuselage plywood doubler. If anyone that needs them didn't get 'em, please drop me a line and I'll get them out to you ASAP. This should help you cut down on your costs for printing.

Tom

Skitimberlake

My Feedback: (35)

Canard stick flight report - Set up my Canard Stick per my calculations of CG, also verified with plans referenced above. Right on together. Had to add 4 oz lead directly on nose to get CG to balance, so I was distrustful of my calcs till I saw the plans. Thanks very much for sending them electronically !! Modelers can be incredibly helpful !! thanks again !!

I am flying with GP 42 2 stroker and 11x6 pusher. Futaba 127 receiver and 4 standard servos for nosewheel, ailerons, elevator and throttle.

Although I am a fairly experienced flier, my heart rate and adrenaline were up there on maiden flight this past Sat May 5. Cinco de Mayo. It was our WIERD airplane day (Wacky Innovative Experimental Radical Design) at LCAA (see LCAA.org for pics in future). Guys were "referenceing" Average White Band's Pick Up the Pieces before the flight... The canard Stick fooled 'em, as it picked up speed, rotated and lifted off fine despite my aprehensions. Very stable. Axial rolls fine and easy, barrel rolls if slight up applied with aileron, loops were more abrupt than I would wish but I was too hard on elevator. Inverted required very very slight push to hold altitude. No real stalls, sort of mushes forward. And it does not snap roll, no stall break so it sort of does an aggressive barrell roll if sticks moved hard to the corners at speed. Lost too much airspeed on the one outside loop I did to be smooth. Did couple half reverse cuban turnarounds. Flew 4 times total, I think my motor liked very slightly rich rather than ground peaked, but not as rich a backoff from peak as I usually do on normal tractor setups. Ran it dry on 4th flight and deadsticked in with no problems in slight tailwind. On other landings, I was flying it in slow, then chop throttle and let it settle in, a tiny touch of up at last moment to lift nose till mains touchdown, then release up.

I did find it pretty easy to lose orientation. We had solid cloudy grey skies, which made it hard to see aircraft. Mine is all red. I did lose orientation once, glad I was at about 75' altitude to catch the error. It just looks so different in the air. I did also notice some slight adverse yaw on turns. I did not expect this, but it was there - very slight.

With no rudders, there are some things it can not do, but overall I was surprised how pleasant and easily it flew. Not gonna be a primary ship by any stretch, but for those times you want to stir some interest in the unusual, try one. Next time I go out with it, am gonna try to smooth out those inside and outside loops, also will try to spin it, do some full cubans and reverse cubans, and maybe a rolling circle. those should be interesting w/o rudders... On canards as on any normal plane, keep CG ahead of CP unless you are superman with the sticks.

I also maidened a small kluged together rogallo wing too (on a Battle Floyd fuselage) which drew some interest. Flew around ok, but pretty boring. Overall the Canard stick drew more inquiries. Almost as much as the "flying lawnmower" by Chuck. The other wierd planes were a VTO electric by John, and of course his funky chicken which kept losing its head. (but is not that what real chickens normally do...eventually ?) So we had 3 flyers enter the "Order of O" on Wierd Day. all in all, a good day, good picnic, till the rains came...



Roger aka Skitimberlake

Tkeith9512

Took the last week off from work, this one, too, and next week!

Here is the third Canard Stick I've built. 2nd went together and got "procured" by one of my flying buddies that I didn't even think to photograph it!

Basic cut out of all parts took 2 3 hour evenings. Basic assembly took one full evening for the fueselage, one full afternoon and evening for the wing, one evening 'glassing the wing center and filler work, one full evening for the canard and tails, and a full day to put everything together to this point. The only thing to do is drill the motor mount, set the throttle linkage, set the aileron control horns, balance the model fore/aft and laterally, and cover it.

New idea with the canard linkage, I used a Sig Controls heavy duty control horn part # SIGSH555, 5" offset instead of manufacturing a set of control linkages. I'm not sure what the control horn is used for in the real model world, but it worked PERFECTLY for this application.

The other modification is to eleminate the front wing dowels and use 4 1/4 nylon bolts a la the normal stick manner. This is the 2nd time that I've done this with this model and it works out really well for aligning the wing, you just have to add an additional plywood bolt plate in the fuselage area above the leading edge of the wing and drill accordingly. I kept the plywood web in the center bays, sheeted the top of the wing, cut out the sheeting between the web and the leading edge from the spar forward, and placed a 1/8 plywood deck and filled the rest with a carved/sanded to shape balsa block. From there, I used a Higley alignment tool to drill the holes, then finished sheeting the bottom of the wing, made the fuselage filler block, and drilled through to get the hole for the bolt head centered just right. Procedures for doing this are almost directly from the OLD Stick kit manual available from the Great Planes tech support web page. Not my best work with some of the center sheeting, but I had to "make" some of the sizes that I needed for the LE and TE sheeting, which proved to be a pain.

Also, unlike the instructions, I have kept the canard elevators seperate from the control linkage. I tried the last one this way, and solidified the balsa where the control wire goes in it with CA, and it's got almost 11 flight hours on it now and it's not showing any problems. Roughen up the linkage wire with 150 grit and use 5 min epoxy after covering and it's worked fine. If you get any epoxy in anything, clean it out while curing with a qtip soaked in alcohol.

My 5/32" main and nose gear worked first try, got all the bends right. Maybe I'm getting the hang of this in my old age (37 yesterday)!

Preliminary balancing shows that this one will require a space on the muffler, 1/2 oz left wing, and about 3 1/4 ounces in the nose.

Total investment: Almost $45 in wood, $45 in associated hardware, glue, etc, and that includes the two rolls of Monokote, and $25 for an excellent Ebay Tower .40(thunder tiger??), plus a $45 receiver, $40 in Ebay Futaba 3003s, and a $8 home made 1100 NIMH battery. Grant total=$208 and I estimate abut 25-27 hours to get it to the point that you see here. Is that slow? I have no frame of reference with anyone else, but everyone tells me that I build fast, finish slow! LOL.

Canard elevators, ailerons, cabin cover, tails, and wing will all be seperated from the fuselage for covering. Elevators will get hinged in with the control horn, tails will get epoxy, all other hinges get hinge glue and pins.

I'll try to post pics, may have to resize. Please bear with me. Not sure how to make those little pop up pics, so I will apologize in advance to the dial up users.

Tom

canard addict

Canard Lovers please check this out. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613556