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Joined: 12/5/2001 From: Mallorytown,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
Be careful with the push-pull. It has to be set-up just as perfectly as a pullpull, if not moreso. If you have a pull pull, that goes slack, no huge issue. If you have a pushpull that goes slack, that means it's trying to stretch one rod, and squish the other. My advice for pull-pull is this: Do a full scale mock-up of your set-up, and then adjust the arm length in small increments until you get a no-slop, no binding system. Then, make your own arms and you are done!
Posts: 969
Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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Joe,
What I meant by 4 oz is that the servo is 2 Oz, and the distance of moving it to the pull-pull would be 1/3 from the CG as previously, so that would be equivalent to a 4 oz saving of nose weight needed. The servo cutout is already done for you, so if you go with pull pull, then you'd have to buy a black covering to patch it up (no biggie).
As promised, here are some build pics. There really aren't that many need for build pics since it's more of an assembly. All the robart hinge points are drilled right on for a perfect fit, and they're all centered. One difficulty I have was in drilling the control horn holes (having a drill press might have helped).
Sorry about the mess
< Message edited by BoneDoc -- 10/16/2005 12:54:26 AM >
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Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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I glassed the firewall, even though it's probably not needed. They pinned it already as you can see from the previous picture. From my measurement, you really need 1/4" more lengthf rom the firewall for the DA50 with a 2.5" standoff to be just right (1/16" away from the cowling when the cowling is flushed against the body). I think I could've pushed the cowling in, but from my (limited) experience, that usually ends up scratching the covering on the hatch. I didn't have 1/4" ply, so I used 2 x 1/8" (not the prettiest job, but nobody is going to look in here anyway. )
On the second pic you can see the provided litght ply floor for the tank. That is NOT glued to the frame. The manual recommends putting it right next to the firewall (ala glow), but I'm going to move it back to CG. You do need to sand it just a touch to get it to fit properly. I will probably reinforce it with some triangle stock and cross grain ply.
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Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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The ONLY 2 defect I found so far with this kit (not much really if you think about it).
1. The glue joint came loose. No biggie. A little 15 min epoxy, and it's fixed. I'll probably add a couple of small triangular balsa to hold it togethter better.
2. Poor design I guess. You can see the bend in the bottom part of that former. A simple cross grain ply will fix that (balsa will probably work too).
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Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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Look ma, no servo tray . I frankly don't know what they were thinking when they're doing this because there's no way for this to ballance right without using pull-pull if you're going the DA route. I am planning on using some basswoods to make my own servo attachment point.
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Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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All you diehard Edge fans will immediately notice (heck even I notice it immediately) that the rudder is no way close to being scale. This baby is going to have some MAJOR rudder authority though BTW, I ditched the stock tail wheel setup, and recycled my Extra 260's CF tailwheel.
The second pic shows another example of how not quite scale this kit is. The canopy is too long to be a true Edge (which I think looks funny anyway), and too short to be an Edge 540T. i think the Extra and the Edge shares the same canopy really. IMHO, though it's not quite scale, it looks better though.
The third pic is the elevator setup. I ditched the supplied hardware because they're flmsy for my taste (the pushrods are 4-40, but the control horn is a rather soft nylon kind (see the pics on the next post). Since I got this bird after I doinked my H9 Extra 260 (forgot to pin up ), I recycled their control horn and ball link setup (good stuff IMHO). You can kind of see it from the pic. The H Stab is held together by 2 screws that ends in a blind nut on the fuse. Decent, but not optimal, as removing stabs would be a PITA since the servos are not hidden IN the H Stab (ala UltraRC Giles 202). Somebody creative can probably make the necessary mods, but that's too much hassle for me, and I have no intention of removing the H Stab anyway. One alternative is to use one of Dubro control horn because the hinge points are clipped on with a pin, making removal easier.
< Message edited by BoneDoc -- 10/16/2005 1:29:37 AM >
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Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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Here are the 2 aileron setup. I personally feels more comfortable with using 2 with a surface area this large. I'm setting up my Futaba 9C for a 4 servo aileron setup, so I don't need any matchbox / y adapter / etc. On the ailerons, I DID use the STOCK arms. I figure ailerons aren't that important, and there are 2 of them, so it's more bulletproof.
You can't really see it from that angle, but if you look at the top/bottom profile of this Edge vs the real Edge, the wings are wider front-back (which would give you the more surface area for the same wing span). I think this is a fine compromise, as most planes are designed like this anway to reduce wingloading.
Pic 2 & 3 show the closeup of the control horn. This is EXACTLY setup stock (so you guys would have an idea of what they look like. IMHO, this is adequate for a 90 bird, but not a 30% (you be the judge)
Ok, that's it for now. I just got back from my LHS today with all the pull-pull setup, so once I get going on that, I'll post more pics. Right now, I only need to set up the pull-pull, mount the tank, and throttle servo.
< Message edited by BoneDoc -- 10/16/2005 1:28:39 AM >
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I am amost done, but it seems that the closer I am, the slower it gets . I need a place to mount my throttle servo. I was thinking of doing it upside down bolted to teh top part of the firewall. Is that a good idea? The way the engine is mounted (DA50), the throttle servo needs to be pretty high up there, but I really don't see any good supporting structure.
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Joined: 9/28/2004 From: San Antonio,
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Ok, Here are more pictures
Pic 1. This is how I decide to mount the throttle servo. Just epoxy 2 x 3/8 square popplar to the front of the box. If I need more nose weight, I can add another 1.5-2 Oz in the form of a choke servo.
Pic 2. Fuel tank floor glued. I'm using my old H9 Extra tank which survived the crash just fine. The rear of the floor is resting on a former, and I added a triangular stock at the bottom of the front part of the floor. The floor and velcro comes with the kit. With a little sanding, it fits just fine.
Pic 3. Overall view of the tank + rudder assy
Pic 4. My pull pull assy. using basswood 1" x 1/4" thick in a criss cross manner. I am using a tiller also to decrease the overal tension on the servo itself (and supposedly prolong the bearing assy). The whole thing is solid, and centers perfectly. I'm really going to like the HS5995 TG: fast and precise. I think I will eventually mount the receiver just posterior to the tiller arm. By crossing it, I managed not to get it to snag in any of the formers posteriorly. Pretty good for the first shot
Pic 5. My restless DA itching to power its new host.
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RE: The new Lanier Edge 87" - 
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