RE: GTM Hanriot Build   
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Premier Pilot 1/4 scale full body pilot
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Scale Aircraft >> RE: GTM Hanriot Build
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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/14/2006 1:38 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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From: Boise, ID,
Status: offline 		I wasn't going to put these on till after painting, but it still needed to be done, so better now than later. The pictures I have show a handle that must twist to release the access door. The rivets on the edges of the door probably held the guide on the inside of the door that the latch slid through.....Brass of course. I found an internet site where Brass and aluminum black can be purchased in 3 oz bottles...just put which ever one you want in the search window....http://www.brownells.com/


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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/14/2006 12:24 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Randy, I love the details! You are doing just a fantastic job on that plane. I'd love to see it in person some time..
Oh as an aside.. for my prop hub I used a Fender Washer and drilled holes in it. They are about the right thickness and already have a hole in the center lol. You can get them in several different diameters.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/14/2006 4:14 PM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks for the kind comments Bob. I have found lots of useful modeling supplies while rooting through bins at the hardware store! Brass washers and cotter pins to name a couple. The pictures below show the brass washers being used for a combination spacer/standoff and bungee guide on the landing gear axle. Because of the angle of the gear legs the wheels will get fouled unless there is a spacer...and the shock absorbing bungee would get tangled also....The wheels will probably be held on with brass cotter pins....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/14/2006 9:11 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Looks good Randy. I used a cotter pin and washer as well.. Works really good.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/14/2006 9:21 PM   
Reg Hinnant



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Status: offline 		Ok Guy's, dont get sloppy, check to see if the real airplane had a cotter pin OR bolt. The 00-80 will substitute for the bolt & you can find them with hex heads and even in stainless.
Gotta watch you guys all the time..............

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/14/2006 10:51 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		OK Reg,

Looks like a collar and a bolt.....that was close!!!

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/17/2006 1:54 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		I felt as though I was getting a little wrapped up in the details and was loosing sight of the intended goal....so I assembled the model and sat back with a glass of wine and contemplated the situation.....I think it'll be OK.

Was trying to come up with a cup arrangement for the interplane struts to fit into and found the complicated angles a little too much, so I put all that stuff away and tried making an engine instrument. Thank goodness there are only four cockpit instruments in all...there is a clock that is almost as large as the tach and airspeed, since there were no fuel or oil quantity gauges elapsed time was a big factor......

The tach is made from an Arizona Modelers instrument kit. The body is made from litho plate... it is sitting on the instrument panel which will eventually be laminated with something (?)and then stained...

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 2:42 AM   
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Status: offline 		Partial Panel......

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 3:58 AM   
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Status: offline 		Full Panel.....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 4:10 AM   
Reg Hinnant



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Status: offline 		Very,very good, Randy.
About the only thing I ever got from AZM that I was impressed with, are the WW1 inst faces.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 4:22 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Reg,

This is the first time I've ordered from AZM, and yes, the instrument faces and lenses are nice. The little card stock escutcheons or whatever you call them are OK but make great patterns for the litho plate replacement...the laser cut panel was not appropriate for this model but provided a great "form" for holding the litho in place during assembly.....there is nothing like a 3 dimensional instrument...

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 1:03 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Ditto on the Instrument faces. I used some of those on my plane and I liked them.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 2:02 PM   
Reg Hinnant



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Status: offline 		Hey Randy,
After looking at your model in the pic above, the US version with all blackened metal would be hard to resist. Years ago I built a Proctor Antic and wanted a natural varnished look to the fabric. It was the easist finish I ever did that looked really good.
Go yo Proctors web site & look at the gallery of customers Antic's. You'll find mine sitting on a BBQ table.
I wiped on Minwax oak stain then wiped on Minwax walnut stain polyurethane for a sealed finish, It would be easy & cheap to try that on some of your scrap fabric.
BTW would you want me to send you a few 00-80 bolts & nuts for the axle?

< Message edited by Reg Hinnant -- 4/18/2006 2:05 PM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 3:50 PM   
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Status: offline 		Great work! I am going to use litho plate on my 1/4 Stearman instead of balsa sheeting. One of the Stearmn posters,Reg directed me here to see what you did with the detail and the litho.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/18/2006 4:20 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Chasman,

Hope you found some useful information. Build ing with litho plate has been a real learning experience! it is interesting stuff and once annealed is very easily formed. I don't know if it will eventually"age harden" as some annealed metals do. If the balsa sheeting you replace was there to add rigidity to the airframe I would maybe add the litho over the balsa rather than replace it, as the litho is pretty soft and easily dented, and probably does not add much strength....but that is part of the authentic look! Good luck, and keep us posted...!

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/19/2006 6:10 AM   
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Status: offline 		Here's the instrument panel in it's final form....for now anyway. The pilot is hoping someone will open the door so he can go flying.........

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/19/2006 4:56 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		No fair!! such an easy panel!! Excellent looking bezels any way!

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/20/2006 4:27 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Bob,

You know, when I first decided to build this kit I chose it partially because all the parts were laser cut and the airplane itself was pretty uncomplicated.....it seemed an easy(!!) build .....

Worked on the interplane struts a little more. The only way I could duplicate the angle at which the struts meet the wing was to sand the strut bit by bit until I had a good fit, then I trimmed and sanded the brass to fit the strut. the struts not only angle forward in relation to the wing surface but they angle out towards the tip also...throw in the dihedral on the top wing and a flat bottom wing and the angles just got to be too many for me. The end plates still need to be drilled for the rigging wires. Only three more struts to do now!!

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/20/2006 1:43 PM   
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Status: offline 		Randy, I have to admit I did not think about annealing the litho plate as it seems pretty soft and plyable as it is. Did you anneal your in the oven or how. There is a glass blowing studio not far from my house, but 2800 drgrees may end up vaporising the linot plate and not annealing it.

Any tips and hints on this would be very welcome.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/20/2006 3:54 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		I used the oven, set at 550. Just place the litho on the rack for a few minutes and then cool it rapidly..I take mine into the garage and lay it on the concrete floor to cool, but a sink full of water will do also, or even a cookie sheet. It cools rapidly.. Some guys use a torch but mine doesn't have a proper tip so it is real easy to melt the litho. It melts almost without warning....try a couple of practice pieces...you will be suprised how pliable it is after annealing. I suppose different oven temps would give different levels of annealing, but I was happy with the effect of using 550..

for some annealing info http://www.tinmantech.com/html/aluminum_alloys_continued.php

and this fellow has some great technique.. http://www.propellor.tv/2/2.html

Good luck and don't burn your fingers!!

Randy


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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/21/2006 11:23 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Howdy Randy,
You're really kicking butt. Hadn't been on your thread for a while, I lost my automatic notify link and thought you were on vacation again.
It's really looking great, can't wait to see it done.

Del

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/22/2006 4:52 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Del,

Yes, I'm still grinding away at it.....

I've been gazing at the mostly assembled model as the little detail bits get made, and I noticed that there was no fairing block under the leading edge of the stabilizer.....I guess it's a good thing to assemble the plane and just stare at it, might just notice something that got left off....the blocks are there now..

Hey Reg, if you are out there...made up the wheel collars today. Five different sizes of brass tubing in each, soldered, ground to length and drilled for a 0-80 hex head bolt. All I need now is a castellated nut and some little bitty cotter pins....!!

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/22/2006 5:11 AM   
Reg Hinnant



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Status: offline 		Couldnt look any better than that, Randy!

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 4/22/2006 10:28 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Randy a good idea with the wheel assy. I might need to take a closer look at mine hmmmm.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 5/1/2006 4:09 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Have made a little progress over the last week or so. More or less waiting for paint now, should be here next week...but there are always a few things that need to be done in the meantime..

There are two conventional fuel caps and this weird cap/filler/vent or whatever back by the pilot. Cut away views of the fuselage show a tank inside the fuselage in this position. Anyway, I made and installed one on the model. the first picture shows the part that supports the vent sitting on a print of the airplane..the second is the model with the vent installed...the other two pictures are of the engine air intake being installed.

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