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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/10/2006 3:32 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		The front hood is now in place...nothing is glued yet and there is a little trimming to be done, but it looks as though it is going to work out.....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/12/2006 12:43 AM   
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Status: offline 		All the panels are now laminated and have been dry fitted. I think it is going to turn out pretty good as long as I get everything glued on straight. I'm trying to decide whether to put the rivets on now or after the panels are attached..we'll see. The first pic shows the near-finished panels, and the other pics are of the structure..probably the last time that it will be easily seen as the panels will be on soon!

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/12/2006 1:10 AM   
deljon



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Status: offline 		Look'n really great Randy. Can't wait to get started on mine, but gotta
finish the BUSA Dr.1 first.
Workshop not big enough to have two planes going at once, I may have to
overflow into the Familyroom.

Del

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/13/2006 5:21 AM   
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Status: offline 		I know what you mean Del..I'm only just able to squeeze a peanut scale model on the bench with the Hanriot parts everywhere....I have no idea where I'm going to keep it when finished....I don't think the living room is an option...

Glued the two front hoods in place, after much hemming and hawing....when you run out of excuses not to do something, well you just have to go ahead and do it! I am pleased with the result although it did not exactly snap together like a bunch of Leggos, but it wasn't too bad. If anyone out there is build ing one of these I recommend JB welding the retaining nuts to the inside face of the cabane flats. I must have put those screws in and removed them again 75 times, and if I had fiddled with the nuts every time I'd be nuts by now....The first pic is of the nuts JB-Kwiked to the cabanes. About three this morning I luckily remembered that I needed to thread the servo wires into the cabanes before gluing the hoods in place, as the cabane assembly cannot be removed with everything glued . Tomorow with any luck the side fairings will go on, as I spent several hours this evening trimming and sanding them to fit.....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/13/2006 1:01 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Randy, Whewwww on remembering huh! Would have been a bummer to have to go back and try to make it work later on

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/14/2006 11:14 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Bob,

Yeah, it would have been a big time bummer, but lucky for me I do some of my best thinking while rolling around at 3am.....

My subject airplane has this weird sub-cowl that looks as though it was meant to help deflect the exhaust and oil from swirling up into the cockpit. It also looks to have been used to channel the spent shell casings to the rear, as the shell casings usually just were run through a chute and out the bottom of the fuse, but with this sub-cowl in place it would have interfered....whatever the reason, it's there and it was a real challenge, but it is done! Now maybe I can get those side fairings on...unless I think of something else that needs to be done first!..there really is going to be limited access when those fairing go on so anything that needs to be done inside the front end needs to be done now...

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/16/2006 4:04 AM   
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Status: offline 		As I look back through this thread I see that I've been fooling with the side fairings since late November!! and it still is not time to fasten them on....I thought I could attach them before covering with fabric, and just slide the fabric underneath the fairings where they overlap, but that just won't wash...so, the fabric must go on before the fairings....I did however manage to install all the radio equipment except for the receiver, which is on order. You can see the fuel filler, onboard booster plug and assorted wires in one view, and the switches for the rx and onboard glow driver in the other. The receiver will be placed under the seat and held in position with Velcro. With all that aluminum sheeting up front I thought I'd move it back as far as I could to get it away from any interference that might be present up front. I think that now I need to assemble the airplane and be sure that everything still fits as planned, a little sanding here and there can change the fit and I don't want any rude suprises after it's covered!

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/17/2006 12:54 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		I assembled all the parts today. No rigging or control hook-ups but everything still fits though things are a little tight in places, and the addition of a thickness of fabric would be enough to make things not fit, so a little sanding here and there is in order. Weighs in at just about 11 pounds right now, and balances on the recommended CG. Fabric and paint will change all that I'm sure, but it ought to come in somewhere near the 14 pound target weight. Time will tell. As I was trying to get a picture I kept giving myself a bad time cause I couldn't seem to take a lousy picture, then I realized that lousy pictures weren't my problem, I did those pretty well!!

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< Message edited by V2PLUS10 -- 1/17/2006 12:55 AM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/17/2006 12:58 PM   
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Status: offline 		Looks like a winner!..

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/19/2006 1:40 AM   
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Status: offline 		Found a couple of things that needed adjusting after my trial assembly. When the rudder cables were stretched to the control horns they did not exit the fuselage at the same place back at the tail. This was because the rudder servo is on one side up front and the cables make a straight line back to the rudder. Well, to get them to exit symmetrically I had to bend them a little so they would route down the center of the fuselage. A block with a slot fixed the trouble. I also had to shorten the pushrod that connects the elevator bellcrank to the elevator horn. Finally I attached the elevator control horn. The design here bothered me a little as the horn is just glued to the dowel, with no mechanical means of keeping it from slipping should the glue let go....as unlikely as that would be. Still, the elevator is important(!) so I drilled the horn and dowel and inserted a .025 length of piano wire. Maybe not 100% fail safe but maybe enough to get you home...

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/21/2006 5:04 AM   
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Status: offline 		There is a seemingly endless string of details that need to be completed. The servo wires pass through the wing ribs in the pre-cut lightening holes, and to help route the wires and make things easier should the servos ever need to be replaced, I made a paper tube from printer paper and a glue stick and installed one in each panel. I also cut out the connector between the servo lead and the extension, and soldered the wires together. the last two pics are of the area where the wires exit the wing and enter the cabane. I grooved the wing root to help route the wires, and I think with a little matt black paint they will be nearly invisible....Still hoping to begin covering soon...maybe next week.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/24/2006 2:45 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Began covering today. I ordered the fabric in early December thinking I'd be needing it soon, but I guess a month is not really that much time....

I added a coat of Balsarite to all the edges of the framework, and then just jumped right in with both feet...the only spot with slightly difficult compound curves was at the point where the turtle deck meets the more flat deck area. No trouble though. The Nelson Lite-fab works great. the pictures show the covering sequence. A nice sharp double-edged platinum razor blade was used for trimmimg...

The first picture is of those stained sticks that I started with so long ago....

All the reinforcing strips need to be added and the material needs to be shrunk, then maybe the side fairings?

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< Message edited by V2PLUS10 -- 1/24/2006 2:48 AM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/24/2006 5:41 PM   
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Status: offline 		Schweet!.. My friend used some of the Nelson light fab and he really liked it. Looks good on the plane and is pretty easy to work with.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/24/2006 6:42 PM   
laryboy



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Status: offline 		how did you do that part at the turtle deck ?

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/24/2006 7:44 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		At some point along the way I added some 1/8" square balsa strips between the formers at the vertical part of the turtle deck, to give the fabric something to stick to. Kind of an inside 90 degree corner along the seam of the less curved decking and the hump of the turtle deck/headrest extension. I aligned the piece of fabric, only covering half the deck area at a time, and attached it to that inside corner. Then I just stretched and attached it as you would any where else on the model. Remember that there is a seam in the fabric at the topmost center stringer from the cockpit to the stab.The two pieces overlap at that top stringer ..the deck area is covered with two seperate pieces of material....use a trim iron with a small shoe....

I took a picture of the area hoping to show the added balsa and the inside 90 degree angle, but its not that easy to see..... the other is an older picture and you may be able to see the additional strips between the turtle deck formers....

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< Message edited by V2PLUS10 -- 1/24/2006 8:12 PM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/24/2006 11:39 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Added many strips of material posing as reinforcing tape to the fuselage. It is really pretty hard to see, especially when painted, but it adds a little dimension or maybe texture to an otherwise plain surface.....oh yeah, and I finally glued one of those darn side fairings in place-- measure a thousand times, glue once!! Got lucky this time, one more to go....

Even the dog thinks I'm crazy....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/25/2006 4:29 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Both sides are on now, looks a little like a Knight in Shining Armor, don''t you think?

"Nemo Me Impune Lacessit".... motto of the Order of the Thistle. A thistle insignia was used by one of the Hanriot squadrons in WWI..." No one provokes me with impunity"

Tough to get a picture of both sides at once...

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< Message edited by V2PLUS10 -- 1/25/2006 3:35 PM >

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/26/2006 7:37 PM   
ROB IN ALBERTA


 

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From: RED DEER , AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		TRY TO USE A MIRROR AND TAKE THE PICS AT AN ANGLE THAT ALLOWS YOU TO SEE BOTH SIDES. THANKS FOR THE HOURS OF ENTERTAINMENT READING ABOUT YOUR ADVENTURE AND GOOD JOB.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/26/2006 7:46 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Rob,

You know, I might just try that!!

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/26/2006 7:57 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Here you go!! Pretty cool.

The first one was a little fuzzy...

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/27/2006 2:49 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Made a few access doors today....this is the last and the best but it may still get replaced, time will tell. These things are proving to be difficult. The curve of the side, and the fact that the litho is so soft that it requires a hard balsa backing is proving to be a challenge. One bad move and you have an unrepairable wrinkle or fold, and if the glue underneath is not smooth, after a bit of handling the irregularities start to show through. I've noticed that the digital camera has a little trouble focusing on the reflective surface of the litho plate...I can only hope the judges have the same trouble.....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/27/2006 12:45 PM   
BobH


 

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Status: offline 		Randy, could you substitute aluminum for the lithoplate. It's harder and holds its shape. I get mine from my local HS. They sell aluminum and tin in small sheets. They are pre-packaged and are sold in various thicknesses.

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/27/2006 3:31 PM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Bob,

I tried some litho that hadn't been annealed, but I could not press it to form the recessed shape....would need more than just a plywood form and a mallet for that...this will be fine, once the backing is on it is pretty rigid. Thank goodness I only have two doors to make though!!

Randy

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/28/2006 1:41 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		Finished the other access door today. Actually made about three doors and another form as the one I had produced a door that was just a little too large. The doors will be held closed with 1/4 by 1/16 magnets from www.wondermagnet.com they are very effective at holding the doors closed. Did not post any pics of the door as one looks like the other.
Finally installed the blind nuts in the wing root ribs. I put this off to see how it would all fit together. The pictures show the sequence of countersinking the hole so the blind nut is flush with the rib surface. I used a long 2-56 machine screw and a washer/nut combo to seat the blind nut. First the hole is countersunk. Then the screw blind nut hex nut combo is installed. Then the screw is tightened just enough to pull the blind nut snug against the hole. Gule is then applied around and under the blind nut. I used Flex-zap cause it is thick and offers a little more working time. Next a 3/16" socket is fitted over the screw head and onto the hex nut, and the hex nut is then tightened to seat the blind nut on the other side. after the glue sets the screw is backed out and you are good to go. I did apply a little petroleum jelly to the threads of the blind nuts to keep things from getting gummed up should the zap seep in. Thats it . Works fine, lasts a long time....

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RE: GTM Hanriot Build - 1/30/2006 3:42 AM   
V2PLUS10


 

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Status: offline 		When I built my previous scale model the covering part went pretty well, except that I had not tapered the spars enough at the wing tips and the material stuck to them and absolutely would not let go. Four wing tips, eight if you count top and bottom, and probably three have a little spot where the covering is stuck to the spar. I hope to avoid that here. I started out this morning expecting to get all the tail surfaces covered. but after about three hours of careful sanding, that just wasn't going to happen. I did get the stab and elevator covered though. The first pics show my efforts to recess the spar to aviod the trouble mentioned above. Next is a picture or two of a short spruce sanding block that I use constantly. it is great for tapering tips and leveling ribs. Only about half the length has sandpaper attached so you can rest one end on a rib without sanding it, giving the correct angle for the tips. Next is the covered stab. Won't be long now and I'll need to deal with the rib stitching......

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< Message edited by V2PLUS10 -- 1/30/2006 3:44 AM >

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