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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 2:36 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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ORIGINAL: NM2K


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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thank you Ed, Bill, and others. I will keep either the Fox Miracle or OS F glow plug in it and adjust my throttle opening speed and give it more time to get that quick transition that ive seen in videos on the tube. I'll keep using the low nitro fuel for now.

Is the pinch test at wot a good method for setting the needle or should I use a tach and just go richer 400-500rpm?




I'm not a user of the pinch test. I learned how to set engines a long time ago, before the pinch test and tachometers were common. I never could see the need for them, unless you had a hearing problem that prevented you from hearing the engine properly.

My Enya engines are easy enough to tune well with good fuel and glow plug. No special tricks are required.


Ed Cregger

From a rich needle setting, I can hear when it starts running "cleanly" with no misfiring, and from that point its 3 or 4 clicks before the rpm sags enough for me to hear it.. Though using the tach, from the clean running setting to a 50rpm sag is maybe 2-3 clicks leaner. I was getting 9,900rpm for a peak on the 13x4W APC and I set it richer down to about 9,200rpm. It was running clean with an occasional miss. I don't normally tune with a tach, rather on my 2-strokes I set the needle by pinching the line. This is what I found works especially well on my Super Tigres.

I've been able to get the 60-4C engine to idle down to 1600, though not reliably.. What should be a reasonable idle speed to adjust the airbleed to? The manual says idle speed is 2700-3000rpm which I think is too high... The reason I ask is I know on some carbs, too fast or too slow an idle speed can cause problems getting the idle mixture and transition set. Does the metered Enya airbleed carb work in this fashion or does idle rpm not matter?

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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 7:52 AM   
NM2K


 

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ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


quote:

ORIGINAL: NM2K


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thank you Ed, Bill, and others. I will keep either the Fox Miracle or OS F glow plug in it and adjust my throttle opening speed and give it more time to get that quick transition that ive seen in videos on the tube. I'll keep using the low nitro fuel for now.

Is the pinch test at wot a good method for setting the needle or should I use a tach and just go richer 400-500rpm?




I'm not a user of the pinch test. I learned how to set engines a long time ago, before the pinch test and tachometers were common. I never could see the need for them, unless you had a hearing problem that prevented you from hearing the engine properly.

My Enya engines are easy enough to tune well with good fuel and glow plug. No special tricks are required.


Ed Cregger

From a rich needle setting, I can hear when it starts running ''cleanly'' with no misfiring, and from that point its 3 or 4 clicks before the rpm sags enough for me to hear it.. Though using the tach, from the clean running setting to a 50rpm sag is maybe 2-3 clicks leaner. I was getting 9,900rpm for a peak on the 13x4W APC and I set it richer down to about 9,200rpm. It was running clean with an occasional miss. I don't normally tune with a tach, rather on my 2-strokes I set the needle by pinching the line. This is what I found works especially well on my Super Tigres.

I've been able to get the 60-4C engine to idle down to 1600, though not reliably.. What should be a reasonable idle speed to adjust the airbleed to? The manual says idle speed is 2700-3000rpm which I think is too high... The reason I ask is I know on some carbs, too fast or too slow an idle speed can cause problems getting the idle mixture and transition set. Does the metered Enya airbleed carb work in this fashion or does idle rpm not matter?




One thing I want to clear up is that I am not a member of the under 2k rpm idle club. This may very well be an item where I am simply behind the times. To me, if the engine will idle reliably (includes satisfactory transition to high throttle) at 2k to 2.2k, then I am happy.

Another thing unrelated to your post is me copying someone else and saying that Enya now has a four-stroke glow plug. I was merely repeating what I saw here on the forum. I said it before I checked it out for myself. Still haven't checked it out as yet. So much for assuming something is true and repeating it. I'm guilty. My apology to all.


Ed Cregger


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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 8:10 AM   
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENYA-NEW-4-CYCLE-GLO-PLUGS-X-2-/290618529766?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa36d7e6



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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 8:47 AM   
Ram Jet



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ORIGINAL: fiery

Here 'tis

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENYA-NEW-4-CYCLE-GLO-PLUGS-X-2-/290618529766?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa36d7e6





This eBay seller has lots of neat stuff for Enyas. I bought a needle valve/idel bar from him for my Enya .19 and my McCoy .35. Ed you have NOTHING to apologize for. I've learned a-lot from you over the years. Can't you buy this plug direct from Enya for about $8.00? Isn't a 4C plug just an Enya #4 which is one step cooler than a #3? Dunno.

Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 8:53 AM   
Ram Jet



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ORIGINAL: NM2K


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


quote:

ORIGINAL: NM2K


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thank you Ed, Bill, and others. I will keep either the Fox Miracle or OS F glow plug in it and adjust my throttle opening speed and give it more time to get that quick transition that ive seen in videos on the tube. I'll keep using the low nitro fuel for now.

Is the pinch test at wot a good method for setting the needle or should I use a tach and just go richer 400-500rpm?




I'm not a user of the pinch test. I learned how to set engines a long time ago, before the pinch test and tachometers were common. I never could see the need for them, unless you had a hearing problem that prevented you from hearing the engine properly.

My Enya engines are easy enough to tune well with good fuel and glow plug. No special tricks are required.


Ed Cregger

From a rich needle setting, I can hear when it starts running ''cleanly'' with no misfiring, and from that point its 3 or 4 clicks before the rpm sags enough for me to hear it.. Though using the tach, from the clean running setting to a 50rpm sag is maybe 2-3 clicks leaner. I was getting 9,900rpm for a peak on the 13x4W APC and I set it richer down to about 9,200rpm. It was running clean with an occasional miss. I don't normally tune with a tach, rather on my 2-strokes I set the needle by pinching the line. This is what I found works especially well on my Super Tigres.

I've been able to get the 60-4C engine to idle down to 1600, though not reliably.. What should be a reasonable idle speed to adjust the airbleed to? The manual says idle speed is 2700-3000rpm which I think is too high... The reason I ask is I know on some carbs, too fast or too slow an idle speed can cause problems getting the idle mixture and transition set. Does the metered Enya airbleed carb work in this fashion or does idle rpm not matter?




One thing I want to clear up is that I am not a member of the under 2k rpm idle club. This may very well be an item where I am simply behind the times. To me, if the engine will idle reliably (includes satisfactory transition to high throttle) at 2k to 2.2k, then I am happy.

Another thing unrelated to your post is me copying someone else and saying that Enya now has a four-stroke glow plug. I was merely repeating what I saw here on the forum. I said it before I checked it out for myself. Still haven't checked it out as yet. So much for assuming something is true and repeating it. I'm guilty. My apology to all.


Ed Cregger



Maybe it's difficult to get a low (600 -700 RPM) idle because they have a rather radical camshaft duration and lift. It's impossible to get a passenger car idle out of a car with a full race cam in it.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 4:47 PM   
NM2K


 

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ORIGINAL: fiery

Here 'tis

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENYA-NEW-4-CYCLE-GLO-PLUGS-X-2-/290618529766?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa36d7e6






Thanks, Fiery.


Ed Cregger


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RE: Club Enya - 5/9/2012 4:51 PM   
NM2K


 

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ORIGINAL: Ram Jet


quote:

ORIGINAL: NM2K


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


quote:

ORIGINAL: NM2K


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thank you Ed, Bill, and others. I will keep either the Fox Miracle or OS F glow plug in it and adjust my throttle opening speed and give it more time to get that quick transition that ive seen in videos on the tube. I'll keep using the low nitro fuel for now.

Is the pinch test at wot a good method for setting the needle or should I use a tach and just go richer 400-500rpm?




I'm not a user of the pinch test. I learned how to set engines a long time ago, before the pinch test and tachometers were common. I never could see the need for them, unless you had a hearing problem that prevented you from hearing the engine properly.

My Enya engines are easy enough to tune well with good fuel and glow plug. No special tricks are required.


Ed Cregger

From a rich needle setting, I can hear when it starts running ''cleanly'' with no misfiring, and from that point its 3 or 4 clicks before the rpm sags enough for me to hear it.. Though using the tach, from the clean running setting to a 50rpm sag is maybe 2-3 clicks leaner. I was getting 9,900rpm for a peak on the 13x4W APC and I set it richer down to about 9,200rpm. It was running clean with an occasional miss. I don't normally tune with a tach, rather on my 2-strokes I set the needle by pinching the line. This is what I found works especially well on my Super Tigres.

I've been able to get the 60-4C engine to idle down to 1600, though not reliably.. What should be a reasonable idle speed to adjust the airbleed to? The manual says idle speed is 2700-3000rpm which I think is too high... The reason I ask is I know on some carbs, too fast or too slow an idle speed can cause problems getting the idle mixture and transition set. Does the metered Enya airbleed carb work in this fashion or does idle rpm not matter?




One thing I want to clear up is that I am not a member of the under 2k rpm idle club. This may very well be an item where I am simply behind the times. To me, if the engine will idle reliably (includes satisfactory transition to high throttle) at 2k to 2.2k, then I am happy.

Another thing unrelated to your post is me copying someone else and saying that Enya now has a four-stroke glow plug. I was merely repeating what I saw here on the forum. I said it before I checked it out for myself. Still haven't checked it out as yet. So much for assuming something is true and repeating it. I'm guilty. My apology to all.


Ed Cregger



Maybe it's difficult to get a low (600 -700 RPM) idle because they have a rather radical camshaft duration and lift. It's impossible to get a passenger car idle out of a car with a full race cam in it.

Cheers,
Bill




I've owned/driven my share of Duntov/Corvette camshaft equipped 55 & 56 Chevvies. So I do know what you mean. (smile)


Ed Cregger


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RE: Club Enya - 5/10/2012 1:15 AM   
captinjohn


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r


quote:

ORIGINAL: NM2K


quote:

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thank you Ed, Bill, and others. I will keep either the Fox Miracle or OS F glow plug in it and adjust my throttle opening speed and give it more time to get that quick transition that ive seen in videos on the tube. I'll keep using the low nitro fuel for now.

Is the pinch test at wot a good method for setting the needle or should I use a tach and just go richer 400-500rpm?




I'm not a user of the pinch test. I learned how to set engines a long time ago, before the pinch test and tachometers were common. I never could see the need for them, unless you had a hearing problem that prevented you from hearing the engine properly.

My Enya engines are easy enough to tune well with good fuel and glow plug. No special tricks are required.


Ed Cregger

From a rich needle setting, I can hear when it starts running "cleanly" with no misfiring, and from that point its 3 or 4 clicks before the rpm sags enough for me to hear it.. Though using the tach, from the clean running setting to a 50rpm sag is maybe 2-3 clicks leaner. I was getting 9,900rpm for a peak on the 13x4W APC and I set it richer down to about 9,200rpm. It was running clean with an occasional miss. I don't normally tune with a tach, rather on my 2-strokes I set the needle by pinching the line. This is what I found works especially well on my Super Tigres.

I've been able to get the 60-4C engine to idle down to 1600, though not reliably.. What should be a reasonable idle speed to adjust the airbleed to? The manual says idle speed is 2700-3000rpm which I think is too high... The reason I ask is I know on some carbs, too fast or too slow an idle speed can cause problems getting the idle mixture and transition set. Does the metered Enya airbleed carb work in this fashion or does idle rpm not matter?

Also a prop that weighs more will work like a flywheel to get a lower RPM. The use of a low pitch prop helps on landings too, with sometimes better climb-out. Capt,n

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RE: Club Enya - 5/10/2012 1:56 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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Status: offline 		I thought about it over the last couple days, listened to what everyone had to say thus far and gave it another whirl with a slightly different approach. I started out with the 13x4W prop still, just working the carb so the engine was happy. Peaked at 9900rpm richened down to 9600rpm. Idle set to 2800rpm. Transition is still rich but manageable. I'll give it more time to run in. Glow plugs used were OS F, Fox Miracle, Fox Idlebar. The idle bar plug behaved the best.

Swapped back to the 13x6 APC prop and peaked out at about 9500rpm richened down to 9300rpm with an idle set to about 2800rpm. Transition still what seems rich but its really close. For the heck of it I switched from 5% nitro 20% oil (50/50 blend cas/syn) to 7% nitro 20% castor. Kept the idle bar plug in it and took a couple videos.

First video is still rich in the midrange, but its not cutting out at least. Just a burble off idle, and it cleans out.
http://youtu.be/j6ngHAPeRhg
Second video was taken immediately after the above video with no changes made to the engine whatsoever. Still using the 7% nitro fuel and 13x6 prop, my little .60 sounds much happier.
http://youtu.be/6eM0mF3WIVc

I know its been said less nitro is better but it really seemed (at least for now) to like having a touch more nitro. As it gets more time on it I'll drop the nitro some and see how it runs.

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RE: Club Enya - 5/21/2012 9:45 AM   
rrengineer



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Status: offline 		Just won a 46 4C Enya on Fleabay for 55 bucks. There were no other bidders! Granted a new in the box 46 4C Enya went for 202 bucks earlier in the day, but NO bidders? Anyway mine has baked on castor oil all around the head. Hoping this is not an over heating issue. Can't wait to see if I got a runner or a rebuild. Anyone have instructions in PDF form?
Mike

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RE: Club Enya - 5/21/2012 9:49 AM   
Kostas1



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Status: offline 		Good choice....Let us know when you get it!!!

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RE: Club Enya - 5/21/2012 10:47 AM   
AmishWarlord



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Status: offline 		I was going to place a bid but decided to go with a Super Tigre G51 that came up on RCU.

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RE: Club Enya - 5/21/2012 12:30 PM   
Ram Jet



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ORIGINAL: rrengineer

Just won a 46 4C Enya on Fleabay for 55 bucks. There were no other bidders! Granted a new in the box 46 4C Enya went for 202 bucks earlier in the day, but NO bidders? Anyway mine has baked on castor oil all around the head. Hoping this is not an over heating issue. Can't wait to see if I got a runner or a rebuild. Anyone have instructions in PDF form?
Mike


It's a beauty of an engine. I got mine at about the same price the same way. The castor crud is probably from lazy maintenance. A rebuild is not a bad idea. I tore mine apart and cleaned everthing with lacquer thinner. My bearings were fine. Good buy.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 5/21/2012 1:44 PM   
steve111


 

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Status: offline 		In the last couple of weeks I've picked up a NIB 11CX-D for $95, and a NIB SS45 Ring for $59.50. Great value, and makes me cringe when I think of some of the mediocrities I've paid far more for.

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RE: Club Enya - 5/30/2012 11:52 AM   
rrengineer



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Status: offline 		Got my Enya 46 4C from an Ebay auction today. Wow! This thing was rode hard and put away wet! It's all gunked up with dried castor oil. The valves do not open and close when the crank is turned. The bearings are "notchy", so will have to be replaced. There was not much compression, so will probably need a new ring. I have been trying to take it apart to clean it and have most of it apart. I can't seem to get the cam shaft gear box off the back. Any ideas how to remove this so I have access to the cams and followers and support bearings? I love a challenge!

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RE: Club Enya - 5/30/2012 1:32 PM   
Ram Jet



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ORIGINAL: rrengineer

Got my Enya 46 4C from an Ebay auction today. Wow! This thing was rode hard and put away wet! It's all gunked up with dried castor oil. The valves do not open and close when the crank is turned. The bearings are ''notchy'', so will have to be replaced. There was not much compression, so will probably need a new ring. I have been trying to take it apart to clean it and have most of it apart. I can't seem to get the cam shaft gear box off the back. Any ideas how to remove this so I have access to the cams and followers and support bearings? I love a challenge!



A few years back I bought an Enya .19 that was rusted solid. Thank God it was a plain bearing engine. The cylinder liner was rusted and the piston was frozen to it and the liner rusted into the cylinder. I got it apart with heat and gently cleaned everything and she's fine today. So don't give up. I would place the engine in a 200 degree oven for about 30 minutes and I'll bet the cam box pops right off.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 6/2/2012 2:07 AM   
rrengineer



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Status: offline 		O.K., I thought I had seen it all with Ebay engines. The 46 4C I recently bought on Ebay for $55 was not a bargain. The valves did not move when it was turned over. There was no compression. Baked on castor oil was outside as well as inside. Today I bought a crock pot at Walwart for $15. I will fill it half way with 50/50 antifreeze and later tonight let the engine stew on low for several hours. What really surprised me when I was taking this engine apart was when I removed the exhaust pipe and muffler. There was rolled up brown paper like shopping bag paper blocking it off just about completely in the exhaust! ****? Did the DPO run it this way? What could possibly be the purpose of blocking the exhaust this way? Every time I buy a cheap Ebay engine, I say it will be the last one... BTW, how have you guys removed the cam gear support bearing in the gear box from it's blind hole when you rebuilt this engine. Ken Enya is sending me all the missing parts and small bearings to finish this challenge. It cost me another $75 for parts. Maybe I should have just held out for a NIB version of this engine!
Mike MacLean

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RE: Club Enya - 6/2/2012 3:08 AM   
Ram Jet



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O.K., I thought I had seen it all with Ebay engines. The 46 4C I recently bought on Ebay for $55 was not a bargain. The valves did not move when it was turned over. There was no compression. Baked on castor oil was outside as well as inside. Today I bought a crock pot at Walwart for $15. I will fill it half way with 50/50 antifreeze and later tonight let the engine stew on low for several hours. What really surprised me when I was taking this engine apart was when I removed the exhaust pipe and muffler. There was rolled up brown paper like shopping bag paper blocking it off just about completely in the exhaust! ****? Did the DPO run it this way? What could possibly be the purpose of blocking the exhaust this way? Every time I buy a cheap Ebay engine, I say it will be the last one... BTW, how have you guys removed the cam gear support bearing in the gear box from it's blind hole when you rebuilt this engine. Ken Enya is sending me all the missing parts and small bearings to finish this challenge. It cost me another $75 for parts. Maybe I should have just held out for a NIB version of this engine!
Mike MacLean


If you are talking about that itty bitty caged ball bearing I didn't remove it. I cleaned it and lubricated it. I don't know how to get it out. What comes to mind, were I in your shoes, I would heat the cam drive case in a 200 degree oven for about 15-20 minutes and attempt to gently screw-in a sheet metal screw until it snaged the bearing race and pull it out. I would put the screw in with finger pressure only.

Let me know so I can do it.

Cheers,
Bill

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RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 2:14 AM   
rrengineer



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Status: offline 		Took the engine out of the Crock Pot after cooking all night on low. What a difference! Looks great. I have still not figured out how to get that tiny ball bearing out of it's blind hole at the back of the cam box. My other problem was after cooking the carb in the antifreeze the fuel nipple fell out! It looks to be soldered. I would just silver solder it back in, but I don't know how much heat I can apply so the silver solder will wick into the hole around the fuel nipple. Anyone had one of these come out before? Any suggestions?
That being said, I continue to marvel at the design of this engine. Split collars to retain the valves. Now that is class!
Mike MacLean

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RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 4:07 AM   
earlwb


 

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Status: online 		Well, removing that little bearing in the cam box can be tricky.  First I tried a homemade bearing puller tool. I took a piece of brass and used a lathe to machine it down until it just fit in the hole in the bearing. I then slotted, drilled and threaded a tapered hole in the tool so I could use a long screw to expand the tip some. Then when I pulled on the tool the center core and balls all came out leaving the outer ball race in place. So then I had to make another tool to get the outer race out too. I had heated up the cam box real good too, so it would expand some before I tried it. So it isn't exactly a quick and easy solution for getting the bearing out. But it worked eventually. I got the idea from somewhere else, I think it was Model Engine News, if I remember correctly.


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RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 7:11 AM   
fiery


 

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Status: online 		I had the fuel inlet fall off the R/C carb on my ENYA CX-11D.

After making such a nice engine why ENYA solder the fuel inlet on is perplexing,

A good clean and fresh solder and all is well again.

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(in reply to earlwb)
       Post #: 1446

RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 8:22 AM   
rrengineer



Posts: 386
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From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Fiery,
What kind of solder did you use, heat source. Please explain the procedure.
Mike MacLean

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(in reply to fiery)
       Post #: 1447

RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 11:00 AM   
Mr Cox



Posts: 2902
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From: Karlstad, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		It is just regular solder that holds the fuel nipple in place on the carb. I've never had any problems with it, beats the friction attachment that Perry uses at least....

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(in reply to rrengineer)
       Post #: 1448

RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 8:50 PM   
rrengineer



Posts: 386
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Joined: 7/5/2004
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From: San Bernardino, CA, USA
Status: offline 		By "regular solder", do you mean electrical tin/lead solder?
Mike MacLean

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(in reply to Mr Cox)
       Post #: 1449

RE: Club Enya - 6/3/2012 8:56 PM   
Mr Cox



Posts: 2902
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From: Karlstad, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		Yes that's what it looks like to me. There is no heat in that part so it should be fine.

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(in reply to rrengineer)
       Post #: 1450

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